www.tomyang.net

Tom:

Where did you get the polyurethane swaybar bushings?

Thanks

I'm looking to install new upper and lower rear control arm bushings (4 arms, 2 bushings per arm), and new front swaybar link upper & lower bushings (2 bushings at each end of swaybar). I'm trying to pick these out of my vintage factory parts catalog. It seems like" silentblok " is Italian for bushi...

My car is 14+ years younger than I am. I remember seeing new 4HL 330's.

1964 330 2+2 s/n 4509

I would like to have a late 80's-on Ferrari in addition to my 330 2+2, or more realistically if I sold the 330. The doable choices would be a 328 or 348, dream-and-scheme-on would be a 550 Maranello. The 330 is what I wanted and it was actually an easier sell to my wife than late model rear engine F...

Art, thanks. I've never seen that abbreviation.

If that's true about the selling price on the 330 4HL, I'm smiling.

1964 330GT 2+2 Series I, s/n 4509 here.

"Art, A 330 GT 2+2 Series I (4 Headlight) recently traded in the NY tri-state area above $65m, slightly below the $69+m asking price. So I'll bet you're looking good. "

Please excuse my ignorance, but what does "m" stand for?

Art, that sounds right. Thanks

By the way, what is NER?

Here I am, stuck down in Texas. You guys on the coasts have all the cool events.

The 330GTC currently on ebay is another reality check - for how much $$
you can potentially spend.

Hello all Yale It must be tough at $2 a gallon & $40 to fill up. Only joking! On this side of the pond my 365 GTC 4 will cost me (if it ever gets to the filling station under its own power) a cool $205 about $8.60 a gallon to fill & I have to travel 40 miles round trip to the nearest place that sel...

Hi Charles: I had the engine cooling system in my 1964 330 4HL reconditioned with system flush, new hoses and thermostat, radiator repairs, and addition of a single auxiliary radiator fan that kicks on at 193F coolant temp. I live in Dallas and had no problems last summer with overheating during ext...

Forget it now, before its too late!!! I'm not trying to discourage anyone from following their dream, all the owners here did, but unless you've got the big bucks to sink into a professional resto (dubious value on this model) and/or the advanced mechanical skills, equipment, and time, make it easy...

The NGK BPR6ES still seem to be working real well. Since my last post on this subject Iv'e tried using some lead additive, again per mechanic advice, to slow down valve guide wear and have not had any consequent fouling in around town Dallas heavy traffic.

Matt:

.028" gap setting is per my mechanic's advice. I've got the packard 440 wires with screw on connector boots.

There was a thread on the subject of wires, plugs, etc., here not long before you got your car.