www.tomyang.net

Yale needs this so he can recall what his car was like..........

John, I took the gauge out of the car and tested with two different sensors on the bench. I decided to start at factory spec so the power supply was used allowing me to start at 12VDC but I could dial in voltage. I did notice that the gauge readings started to get flakey under 7 VDC. The water tempe...

Hope this helps, Jim +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Testing of temperature sender and gauge based on Ferrari 1961 250 SWB August 21 2011 method: bench test using power supply (12VDC) water bath and digital thermometer. Note that 250 gauge is not well marked. Numbers are approx...

Yale, That's a pretty kind offer from Tom K. His seats sure look useable. Why not have a good leather shop piece the better parts together. After all these years, the major problem you will have if you just use a conditioner, is the stitching will be weakened and break. A good shop will match panels...

I just looked over a very nice one from CT. the car is presently in NJ.

Jim W.

Tom, Simply fantastic! Great cars, great video (especially the in car sound track) and special people to be with. A great experience well deserved. Well, I would have taken the GTO for a lap or two but at modest speed, just to have one of auto life's great experiences. I suspect the chance will come...

Looks like a model of Yale's car after it backed into a porcupine!

Jim W.

Hi A.D.

A big moment after a long process.

Just to underline something Tom said, pull the engine through a couple of times after the tensioner is tightened. Then recheck the timing marks. I've always been amazed how the best made plans need rethinking after this critical step.

Good luck!

Jim W.

Michael,

My old FAF catalog indicates the Koni part numbers are:

front 82H1216
rear 82H1217

This site also lists some Koni rebuilders in its archieve.

Jim W.

Colin,

That's a great idea. I'll try it out.

Jim

Giovanni, I have a less traditional way of adjusting the valves that works well for me. The problem I find is with the single cam engines the rocker housings obscure the view of the lobes. However, there is a firing order, the valves all reach top dead center 30 degrees from each other. and the dist...

Gents, The issue of spark plug heat range is interesting. NGK B(P)6ES and its cross references seem to be the recommended heat. But consider this: I’m driving a fully blueprinted 250 engine, with max overbore, slight cutting of the heads, and factory carb settings. All of which adds up to higher com...

Dave, I suspect you are hitting the top of the piston. To confirm this, with plugs remove slightly rotate the engine and try to put the plug in again. Not all engines can handle BP (as in projected electrode) sparkplugs. If that’s your situation you would need to use B5ES plugs. Sometimes during reb...

Dave, When I purchased my GTC in '78 it came with an Abarth exhaust. It was pretty well used up, so I had Borla reporduce it in stainless. When we opened up the Abarth system, we noted there was no fiberglas packing. Nor could we find any indication there ever had been packing. The new exhaust was m...

Dan, I've been watching this discussion with interest. I don't know if you rewired your distributors, but considering you have an occassional pop from number 2 carb, you may want to check the corrrectness of the plug wiring, just in case. Easy to get two switched. Since it's only #6 that's consisten...