www.tomyang.net

These new tips are great! Much better than the previous version. Thanks for doing these, Ed.

Does anyone know of any source for the thin rubber "pad" that is supposed to go under the door sill metal threshold? Picture attached. I have no idea how thick it is supposed to be? 2 or 3mm maybe? I could probably find a sheet the right thickness and cut a pad for each side if I had a clue about it...

You can still get the fan belt boxes (and tons of other cool stuff) here:

https://kilimanjarodesigns.com/product/ ... elt-boxes/

I’m so sorry to hear about Tom Martinez. He and I spent a lot of time going back and forth in March and April this year with both of us working on the heater ducting going through the wheel wells of our 330 GTC’s. I ended up using a slightly smaller diameter ducting with custom 3D-printed transition...

Thanks. I ordered from cicognani since they had a couple of other bits I also needed.

Does anyone have a good source for the rubber boot where the shift rod goes through the tunnel to connect to the transaxle?

BTW, I’ve spent a lot of time on various sites trying to find a suitable 3-1/4” ID duct as that would solve the problems with blower output and reducer diameters. No luck.

Ok, so here is my dilemma: The exit from the Smiths blower is 83mm or 3-17/64” outside diameter The current metal “reducer” is 87mm or 3-27/64” outside diameter on the small end. The inside diameter of the small end is 83mm or 3-17/64” The large end of the reducer is 102mm or 4-1/64” outside diamete...

I am replacing all of my flexible heater ducting/hoses and have some questions for other 330 GTC owners. As currently configured, there is a 4”-to-3” metal reducer connected to the blower exhaust (forward of the wheel well) which then is connected to 4”/100MM flex hose that is routed above the tire ...

Well, that sure sucks! Is there a relay between the switch and the pump? If so, look there. But you know that, of course. I wish I could help, but I’m too much of a novice with these lovely machines. Ike offer to go check voltages, etc. but mines in the shop, as you know. Good luck sorting this one ...

Yep…we’ve all got opinions…and that’s a good thing.

Sunoco advertises two year shelf life on the 110 leaded. In my opinion, there is enough info out there related to the negatives associated with ethanol for long term storage that I simply won’t take the risk. Obviously, YMMV.

Wow..now THAT is some expensive fuel! Yikes! I think that leaded vs unleaded isn’t as big a deal as getting a fuel without ethanol. Most of our cars at this point have updated fuel pump seals and diaphragms and carb seals, gaskets, and diaphragms that will work with unleaded fuel and ethanol, but it...

Steve - Great that your were able to solve the problem. You might want to consider using race fuel at least once a month or so to help reduce ethanol in your fuel systems. I run Sunoco 110 leaded in my 330 GTC and Jag e-type 3.8. No ethanol, no oxygenation, no lead….just like the fuel you would have...

Hang on! I think I found it!!!

The bracket is on the other side of the vertical panel, isn’t it? There’s a rectangular hole in the lower vertical portion of the dash, right?

Is this where the adjuster would go??

Thanks, but I can’t find the hole or the adjuster.

I know it’s a pain to crawl under there, but a picture of the hole location and adjuster would be helpful. I’ll pay for the Ibuprofen, LOL.