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You have to remove the two studs that secure the slave cylinder to the clutch housing in order to remove it. You can double-nut them, or use a collet type stud remover to unscrew them.

Brian B.
Patrick Ottis Co.

William, You don't need to remove the booster in order to diagnose it. The way the system operates is relatively simple. There are two circuits, the control circuit (operated by the brake master cylinder) and the pressure circuit (operated by the booster). You can actually consider the booster to be...

On the bakelite cover, I always put a nut on the bolt on the inside of the cover and adjust it so that the cover is pinched between the two nuts rather than being forced down against the housing. Yes, you can get a reproduction, but it is regular plastic and is not quite the same. A little trivia qu...

We had so many problems with White Post that we stopped using them. I discovered Sierra Specialty http://www.brakecylinder.com/index.htm and have had nothing but good experiences with them, excellent quality workmanship at a cheap price. If you call on on the phone, you are talking to the guy that i...

The unit incorporated into the front brake circuit is not a valve, nor is it a safety braker. It is a proportioning cylinder. It is designed to increase the pressure to the front brakes. It is very simple, has only two parts: a piston and a return spring. The way it works is that brake fluid pressur...

It's a fiberglass kit car, not a real Ferrari.

Brian

One other thing, be sure to polish up any scratches on the pump drive rod in the area where the o-ring seals. This will keep the new o-ring from wearing out prematurely. I chuck the rod in the lathe and polish it with superfine emery cloth until it shines like chrome.

Brian

I replaced one on a 275 GTB/4 the other day, the small inner ring was an 8mm ID with a 2mm cross-section. Curiously it didn't have the large outer o-ring, so I just used some sealer on the outside of the guide. If you want to mail me the o-rings, I can just match them up and send you some new ones. ...

We have a huge selection of o-rings, I just grab a couple out of the bins, but have never taken notice as to their size. The internal ring for the rod always seems too big, as you can't get the rod back in without it shaving a small piece of o-ring out. If you go to the next available size it is too...

Agghh! Don't ruin the pushrod by welding a nut to it. You can make a puller using a collet type dowel pin puller to grab onto the rod. Snap-on sells them. We use a little heat on the timing case to expand it while pulling the guide out. There is an o-ring on the inside and the outside of the guide. ...

You should have power at the solenoid on the overdrive unit when the transmission is in 4th gear and the overdrive switch on the column is turned on. The solenoid will then pull that arm down on the other side of the gearbox so that the hole in the arm should line up with the hole on the overdrive h...

I don't know when they changed. I just know that there are two types, and you have to be very careful about making sure that the overdrive has oil. I have seen the results from running the overdrive without oil from this very mistake and it is not pretty, and rather smelly (burnt oil/clutch). Did yo...

Be careful, some of the overdrives share oil with the transmission, so when you fill the transmission, it fills the overdrive. But some of the overdrives DO NOT share oil with the transmission, and when you drain the overdrive and just fill the transmission, it will leave the overdrive dry. If you t...

The sealant will not and any appreciable amount to the shim stack thickness. When you tighten the bolts down the sealer get squeezed out to the point where there is metal to metal contact. The sealer just fills in the areas between the low and high spots.

Brian