I'm looking to install new upper and lower rear control arm bushings
(4 arms, 2 bushings per arm), and new front swaybar link upper & lower bushings (2 bushings at each end of swaybar). I'm trying to pick these out of my vintage factory parts catalog. It seems like"silentblok" is Italian for bushing....?
Does anyone know what part numbers to use to order these and the proper terminology?
Advice much appreciated!
Suspension Bushings for 1964 330 2+2
Silentblok is the name of the manufacturer of the rear bushings. They are rubber bushings that are vulcanized to the inner and outer steel sleeves. I think they're available from the usual parts suppliers, but I think they're also available from a silentbloc supplier if you have the correct measurements.
I was able to replace all my front sway bar bushings with black polyurethane ones. The ones I used were slightly harder than the original rubber ones, and should give me a little quicker response, and last forever. I think if you look up "sway bar bushings" you should find the entry.
Good luck, and let us know what you find out!
Tom
I was able to replace all my front sway bar bushings with black polyurethane ones. The ones I used were slightly harder than the original rubber ones, and should give me a little quicker response, and last forever. I think if you look up "sway bar bushings" you should find the entry.
Good luck, and let us know what you find out!
Tom
'63 330 America #5053
tyang wrote:I was able to replace all my front sway bar bushings with black polyurethane ones. The ones I used were slightly harder than the original rubber ones, and should give me a little quicker response, and last forever. I think if you look up "sway bar bushings" you should find the entry.
Good luck, and let us know what you find out!
Tom
Tom:
I still haven't been able to find any reference to the black poly bushings.
Another thought on the silentbloc bushings: They use the rubber in tension, so don't tighten the bolts that locate the control arms until the car is on the ground, or at least compress the suspension before locking everything in. If you don't do this, the rubber may wear out faster because they'll be forced to move past they're ability. I hope this makes sense.
I sure hope yours come out easily, I shudder reading about my past exploits with the rear suspension!
Tom
I sure hope yours come out easily, I shudder reading about my past exploits with the rear suspension!
Tom
'63 330 America #5053
Yale, thanks. I was searching the message board and forgot about the restoration search.
My mechanic told me to order all of them from re-originals here in Texas-said they would know what to send.
Tom, I remember the same situation when I had a BMW 635. The guy didn't torque the bolts with the car's weight on the wheels and they lasted about 10,000 miles. Thanks for reminding me.
My mechanic told me to order all of them from re-originals here in Texas-said they would know what to send.
Tom, I remember the same situation when I had a BMW 635. The guy didn't torque the bolts with the car's weight on the wheels and they lasted about 10,000 miles. Thanks for reminding me.
Current: 1983 308 GTS
R.I.P: 330 2+2 s/n 5409
R.I.P: 330 2+2 s/n 5409
Hi, Bluecat49, We ordered our suspension bushings, etc, from Geoff Ohland at PartSource. "www.partsourcenet.com"
They are more of the OEM type, and not the "last forever" type. LJH
They are more of the OEM type, and not the "last forever" type. LJH
Jack Horner, 1966 330 GT 2+2 Series II, s/n 8325 (x-1981 Mondial 8, s/n 36213)
Jack;horner wrote:Hi, Bluecat49, We ordered our suspension bushings, etc, from Geoff Ohland at PartSource. "www.partsourcenet.com"
They are more of the OEM type, and not the "last forever" type. LJH
Thanks. I've seen their web page. The OEM type are what I rather have anyway. Reoriginals hasn't responded back to my request - he did that to me once before.
Current: 1983 308 GTS
R.I.P: 330 2+2 s/n 5409
R.I.P: 330 2+2 s/n 5409