Valve cover gasket sealant

SLM · Post by **SLM** » Fri May 20, 2005 12:20 pm

What are people using for a valve cover sealant. I made the mistake of not using any and am getting oil on the heat sheilds. I was thinking of trying permatex aviation and applying it to the deck and the valve cover lid and then put the gasket in place. Any experiences would be appreciated.
thanks,
Steve

Sleeper · Post by **Sleeper** » Sat May 21, 2005 11:09 am

I have always gotten away with using sealant only at the front and back of the cams, on the corners where the gasket is cut. I would be wary using silicone all around the gasket and I don't think it is necessary. Are the covers warped and are they properly torqed?

512boxer · Post by **512boxer** » Mon May 23, 2005 12:59 pm

I have heard the aviation sealant is good as well, silicone RTV can break off and you'll have little balls of it running in through your oil passages, hylomar is not very good as well. If something is better abd safer than the aviation sealant I'd like to hear about it as well.

John Vardanian · Post by **John Vardanian** » Mon May 23, 2005 2:34 pm

SLM,

Some time ago a veteran Ferrari guy told me no silicon was necessary and to just smear a little axle grease on both faces of the valve cover gaskets. I tried this and after a test drive there was quite a bit of leakage.

Now I use a thin layer of silicon and have had good luck each time. You may find it necessary, as I do, to use the bright colored version, because when you remove the covers again and have to clean up the old silicon, you'll realize that silicon tends to shred in small bits and falls inside the head. The color allows you to see and pick out the bits.

john

TOMKIZER · Post by **TOMKIZER** » Mon May 23, 2005 4:35 pm

Over the 30 years that I've had my 365 GT 2+2, I've tried just about every possible combination of gaskets and silicone sealant. I got sick of seeing the prices become ridiculous so I now make my own gaskets with good results. I buy Victor Reinz JV101 Victolex sheet from the auto parts store (18" x 36" x 1/32" black). I trace the pattern and scissor-cut them myself using the valve cover as a guide and punching the holes with a single-hole office hole-punch. It happens to be exactly the right size for the studs. With a stiff craft brush, I then brush one side of each gasket with a thin coat of black high-temp silicone sealer and hang them to cure. If you leave them flat, they will stick to whatever surface you are using. A few hours later or the next day, I brush the other sides and let them cure. Be careful not to create leak paths with the brush marks. When they are cured, the custom made gaskets are then ready to use with no other prep except a drop of silicone sealant in the corners during installation. It's a little tedious to make them and coat them myself but I get a good feeling when I get excellent results at low cost. And except for the drop in each corner near the cams, there is no "wet" silicone used during the installation and no "squeeze-out" when tightening the covers, no silicone fragments in the engine, and no waiting time while it cures after reassembly. When making them, you can make an extra set in advance for future jobs and not have to wait till the covers are off the next time to trace, cut, coat and cure the gaskets.
Tom Kizer

Post by **tyang** » Mon May 23, 2005 10:38 pm

Hi Steve,

Since you're going to take the valve covers off, check them of warpage before you put them back on. Try to find a flat surface, and see if the aluminum covers are warped. If they are, you can try getting some large sheets of sandpaper and taping them to a flat steel surface. Try to find 100 to 320 grit. Long pieces can come from large belt sander refills. Run the valve covers across the sandpaper to remove a little aluminum on every pass. This may help for slight warpage, but for anything worse, a machine shop can mill the surface flat.

Tom

John Vardanian · Post by **John Vardanian** » Tue May 24, 2005 12:22 am

SLM,

Seems part of the answer lies in making the gaskets youself. Like Tom, I started making the gaskets myself, mostly because of frustration with the hole msallignments. It seems since then I have had no leaks. Although, I use 1/16 inch paper, instead of 1/32 and I install the covers with the silicon still wet.

Moderate warpage should not be an issue due to the expanse and flexibility of the covers, and the number of fasteners. The problem is often minor scratches cause by uncareful removals.

john

SLM · Post by **SLM** » Tue May 24, 2005 7:54 am

Thanks for all your input !

jsa330 · Post by **jsa330** » Wed May 25, 2005 11:02 am

Another timely topic--I've got seepage around where the throttle linkage bracket and firing order plate are attached to the driver's side cam cover.
Original crackle finish is in good shape and the oil will eventually eat it away so I need to get it off and seal up the studs, screws or whatever from the bottom side.

warrenlau · Post by **warrenlau** » Thu Jun 16, 2005 3:12 pm

I'm new to the forum as I have only recently acquired a '67 330 GTC. First order of business was valve adjustment to cure it of sounding like a "bucket 'o bolts". Twenty-four adjustment screws and twelve of twenty-four rollers and pins later it sounds "grrrrrreat" (best sounding car ever made!). I luckily got a perfect seal by using a tiny but continuous bead of Permatex RTP. The biggest problem was getting a good seal around the half circle rubber seal between the cam cover and the timing chain sprocket cover. I finally prevailed when I mounted the sprocket cover first without tightening the acorn nuts. This allowed the rubber seal to seat properly in its grove in the sprocket cover. I then mounted the cam cover and gradually tightened all the acorn nuts. As both covers tightened down, they compressed and "fattened" the rubber seal so that it could do its job.

Jimmyr · Post by **Jimmyr** » Fri Jun 17, 2005 4:31 pm

I have found that extreem care is needed when lowering the gasket down on the head, as the threads on the studs can easilly tear the material if perfect alignment of the holes were not realized. First, I set the gasket on top of the studs and see if there are any holes that do not align, some may not. If this is the case mark the position of the required hole clearence, possibly just a small amount. Then using a single hole paper hole punch punch the clearence where needed. A small dab of sealent (your choice)in the corners by the cam is all that is needed. After the covers are bolted down let the engine set over night to allow the sealent to cure, thus preventing any excess sealent from mixing with the oil. Then, reqorque the acorns to be sure the gasket material has take it's final set. A good source of slightly thicker gaskets made of modern composite material are the ones made by GT Parts in Phoenix. Jim Riff