Spark Plugs

[John Vardanian]

What is your plug of choice for the single cam V12? Any lessons learned from the alternatives? Thanks.

john

[Art S.]

John,

I've been happy with NGK and unhappy with Bosch. Unless you are running the car on the track, I would recommend using plugs two steps hotter than specified. You will significantly reduce fouling issues wthout running into problems.

Regards,

Art S.

[tyang]

Hi John,

Here's a previous thread:
http://www.tomyang.net/cars/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=534

I know I said I would post some of this information in the tips section, but I guess I forgot! Maybe this time around, I'll finally do it.

Tom

[Matt F]

Hey... I was the guy who started that thread!

Well, over a year later, I can say that I've enjoyed the NGK BPR6ES just fine. In fact, if I were to do it again, I'd use the same NGK 6 heat range in platinum and run them forever.

--Matt

[Matt F]

Now that I think about it, here are a couple of other things I can add:

-- The BPR6ES come gapped at 0.035" and the factory manual suggests 0.025". In general, wider gaps require more voltage to spark will very slightly raise horsepower. The difference isn't much noticeable on a 300 bhp 12 cylinder. I'd gap it at the factory spec; it will give a little longer life to your coils.

-- Use an anti-seize when threading the plugs into aluminum. Also start the threads by hand.

-- Be careful when switching between manufacturers, as the heat ranges don't correspond to one another, and may even be numbered in opposite directions from each other. Choose a good manufacturer, stick with them, and then find the right heat range for your driving style and conditions. I'm not happy with my experiences with Bosch. Champions have served me well, but I've heard rumors that their quality has slipped in recent years. Personally, I don't think you can beat the reliability of the Japanese NGKs.

[Jimmyr]

BPR6RS are the currently available NGK's, but some suppliers like NAPA sometimes will have the BP6ES the non resistor plugs of the same series. I don't have any radio problems to care about and think they have a little bit more voltage available with out the resistor in them.

[Art S.]

Jimmy,

Actually, the non-resistor plugs deliver more energy to the spark in the form of additional current - this is much better than extra voltage! Otherwise, you're right, if you can run non-resistor plugs without radio interference, go for it.

Regards,

Art S.

[Rudy van Daalen Wetters]

I read somewhere that using anti-seize impairs heat conductivity from the plug possibly making it unable to transfer heat properly. I use a drop of oil on the threads and screw the plugs in by hand before final tightening.
Who needs resistor plugs and a radio when the motor already plays my favorite tunes?

Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
1966 330 GT s/n 8705

[John Vardanian]

I have been using NGK BP6ES and set the gap at 0.022". I use Permatex anti-seize as well.

It seems to me that anti-seize would not hinder heat conductivity due to the copper dust it contains. Copper is an excellent conductor.

The Rousch/Apen manual calls for 22 pounds of torquing for the plugs. This seems excessive to me so I have been using about 12 pounds. Any thoughts here?

While we are on the subject of resistors, I have seen a many Ferraris with the VW Bakelite plug terminals. I had these on my car too until one day by accident I realized they contain a 1.0k Ohm resistor inside them. They actually look pretty attractive but their resistors cannot help the spark.

Thank you for your inputs.

john

[tyang]

I sometimes feel using platnum plugs can lead to seized plugs due to the long service life. Leaving them in for such a long time with many heat cycles would only make me think they would eventually get stuck especially without anti seize compound. With the amount of miles we put on classic cars, a set of normal plugs can last for years!

Tom

[Matt F]

I sometimes feel using platnum plugs can lead to seized plugs due to the long service life. Leaving them in for such a long time with many heat cycles would only make me think they would eventually get stuck especially without anti seize compound. With the amount of miles we put on classic cars, a set of normal plugs can last for years!

Tom

That's a really good point, Tom. It also makes me feel better about spending a lot less on regular plugs than I would have on platinum ones!

Rudy, I can't imagine where you read that anti-seize impairs heat conductivity. I certainly wouldn't repeat that second-hand gossip as advice, especially if you don't even remember where you read it. Please trust me, you'll prevent galling and be better of with some anti-seize instead of a drop of oil. Even if oil's worked for you so far, it might mean trouble in the future.

[Rudy van Daalen Wetters]

Matt,

Here is the direct quote.

"One practice that I observe is the liberal application of heat-resistant lubricant or antiseize compound to the threads of a new plug before installation. Not only is this unnecessary, but high-temperature lubricants will stay put and can affect the plug's ability to transfer heat into the cylinder head. A light application of oil or antiseize compound is sufficient."

Allen S. Bishop, author "Ferrari Guide To Performance"

This gentleman has more experience on Ferrari motors than most of us will ever have in our lifetimes.

Based on the author's comment as to antiseize being unnecessary and having the potential to impair heat transfer, I felt it safer to avoid it all together. My GTE was drowning in antiseize when I first bought it. I cleaned off all that mess and just use light oil now.

Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
1966 330 GT s/n 8705

[Matt F]

Rudy,

Bishop's book is excellent and well written. (I wish I could keep my garage up to his standards of cleanliness!)

In the quote you cite, he recommends against a liberal application of heat-resistant lubricant or antiseize compound. He doesn't recommend against antiseize entirely.

Re-read that last sentance you quoted: it recommends either a light drop of oil or antiseize compound. It shouldn't be, as your car was, drowning in the stuff. (I like the way you put that!)

Bishop is helpful on the original question of this thread: "Only actual driving will reveal to you which make and type of plug your Ferrari likes best, which is to a great degree governed by your driving habits."

--Matt

[Rudy van Daalen Wetters]

Matt,

I know that Mr. Bishop is adverse to liberal applications to antiseize based on his writing. My thought concerns the second line that states an inherent risk associated with it if too much is used. "High temperature lubricants will stay put and affect the plugs ability to transfer heat." My point is, how much is too much or how little is too little? To avoid this concern, I choose not to use it at all and abide by the alternative, which is some drops of light oil. I also tend not to let the plugs sit too long in a particular car.

Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
1966 330 GT s/n 8705

[brettski]

would the NGK bp6es be a good plug for my 400a ?
i have always used the Champion rn7yc but would like to try something different and would agree that something may have changed with the Champions over the years.

thanks,
brett