Rudy van Daalen Wetters wrote:I would venture to guess that the inner door panels are yet to be painted with a rust preventative paint. A restoration of this caliber would command such a process.
My personal preference would be not to have the inside match the outside. Looks a bit General Motors assembly line production. I'd paint the inside a semi flat black and perhaps add some sound deadener to the lower half.
Just a thought.
a few more steps to go before I can start bolting parts on but it won't be long now. And yes we will black out the iside of the doors and everywhere else followed by some Dyno mat for sound deadening.
Great job and thanks for sharing the pictures. I have a few questions. Did you shoot the hinged panels separately once and then again with them mounted on the car? Or, did you shoot everything once with the pieces all in place? Do you have any pictures of just the jambs having been painted?
Also, I am sure you tried this color on a board or a metal sheet before applying it to the car. What did you use and how big was the piece?
I guess my question is, if a person wants to create his own color, what is the best way to model that color before applying it to the car?
yes we jammed the car first than hung the panels and sprayed the entire car that really helps on odball colors to keep everything the same. I posted the pictures of the jams painted on the previous page. we will now remove the opening panels and wet sand everthing followed by 2 or 3 more coats of clear and the final color sand and buff.
we actually spent a lot of time mixing colors trying to match the original paint that was still in good shape on the inner door sill pieces. once we had a formula we were happy with I had the painter paint the entire dash so we could see a large piece with various curves and angles out in the sun to see if it is exactly what we wanted.
if you have seen a color on another car the best thing to do is get that paint code, if not the process can be quite costly and time consuming.
Thanks Zac. It's easy enough to pick the original color of the car, but if you want a special color that is when it gets tricky. For instance, you see a color either on a chip or another car or a non-car object and you like that color very much, but it's hard to visualize that color on the curves of your own car. This is why I asked you the questions.
What if you were to apply the desired color on a large and flexible panel (like thin sheet metal of 2'x2') and taped it on the various panels of the car to examine the color in different lighting?
Thanks Zac. It's easy enough to pick the original color of the car, but if you want a special color that is when it gets tricky. For instance, you see a color either on a chip or another car or a non-car object and you like that color very much, but it's hard to visualize that color on the curves of your own car. This is why I asked you the questions.
What if you were to apply the desired color on a large and flexible panel (like thin sheet metal of 2'x2') and taped it on the various panels of the car to examine the color in different lighting?
How do the hot rodders do it?
john
Hi John,
I've seen large 1ftX3ft curved painted panels as samples. With today's metallics, a flat painted surface will not work anymore. The moderen metal flakes reflect light differently, and often reflect different colors. I've seen a lot of cars change colors as the sun went behind a cloud. I've also heard discussions on the Ferrari show fields on the size of the metal flakes. Your painter can choose the wrong size and it will look wrong on a Vintage car.
That is what I thought. I just learned that paint supply retailers have notebook sized panels made of thick paper and finished in primer such that they accept the paint directly. The problem here is that they are notebook size. So the alternative is to do as you suggested, with a 1x 3 panel, or tape togather a multitude of these notebook sized panels together to get a larger surface.
Zac got his color right during mixing. I don't think I'm that good.
It may not be an issue for all you high rollers, but I've found a substitute for Dynamat Ultra that is 10% of the cost. I have compared the technical specs on the Dynamat site to measurements taken from the substitute, and they are identical.
The stuff is called Peel and Seal roll roofing. It comes in a 3'x33' roll (roughly 100 sf) for $85.00. An equivalent amount of Dynamat Ultra runs $750.
I've used it in cars, airplanes, on the tub of my dishwasher, and even on a roof or two.
I believe it is an avocado grove. Better suited for the hiding of rusting hulks. It is strange not to have heard a peep from the dynamic duo lately though. Zac has been especially quiet for some time now.