365 GT 2 + 2 restoration

Yale · Post by **Yale** » Sun Jan 06, 2008 11:42 pm

shaughnessy wrote:
Michael Bayer wrote:AD Tom's advice is spot on. HANG IN THERE!!!
Grim Reaper is waiting !!!! :)

Tom's Indian operation:

Yale

Art S. · Post by **Art S.** » Mon Jan 07, 2008 1:19 pm

Yale,

Now that's funny!!!!

Regards,

Art S.

Rudy van Daalen Wetters · Mon Jan 07, 2008 1:39 pm

"There is often a big disparity between the way in which we perceive things and the way things really are" - Dalai Lama

Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
1966 330 GT s/n 8705

Michael Bayer · Post by **Michael Bayer** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 8:37 am

Have you heard how much Tom is asking for one of those round things???

A.D. · Post by **A.D.** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 10:21 am

Some progress-Got the engine started! Couldnt run it for very long though as the neighbours started complaining about the smoke (due to the oil that i had put into the cylinders).

Will run the engine for a shortwhile everyday to burn off this excess oil, and then take the car for a tune up-will keep you advised.

Post by **tyang** » Fri Jan 18, 2008 1:09 pm

Hi A.D.,

Thats good news. Try to run the car as long as you can without upsetting the nieghbors too much. You want to get the exhuast heated up as well as the engine to help evaporate some of the condensation and burn off the oil that may have collected in the mufflers.

Good luck!

Tom

Michael Bayer · Post by **Michael Bayer** » Fri Jan 18, 2008 1:13 pm

And be patient, it will take many miles for the car to awake, give it time for rings to loosen up and reseat, etc. M

klv · Post by **klv** » Fri Mar 21, 2008 2:37 am

Hello all, hope you are having a good Easter break.
I'm using the time to tinker on the Alfa GTV and 365, and I've got to the point of removing the indicator/light/wiper switch. I've got the hub off, and disconnected the wiring from under the dash (via the connectors), but it appears that I need to remove the metal column shroud as the connectors don't fit through the hole in the shroud. Only problem is that the only thing that appears to hold the shroud on is a 'domed' bolt which might be a drama to remove. Has anyone else dealt with this before?
I can't just 'unplug' the wiring from the back of the switch as most of it is soldered to the switch unfortunately...
Cheers

Andrew Stevens

mark · Post by **mark** » Fri Mar 21, 2008 8:22 pm

Hi Andrew:

Indeed I have had the pleasure, of removing this beast. Not too difficult really. What you have to do is remove the plastic molex connector from the wires. It is fairly easy to do. Just depress the locking tabs on each connector and back them out. Naturally, make note of each wire before doing so. The whole mass of wires will clear the cast aluminum steering hub at the bottom of the casting.

Mark

Post by **tyang** » Fri Mar 21, 2008 10:31 pm

Hi Andrew,

They make a tool to release the pins out of molex connectors. I think you have Radio Shacks in WA, and they should carry them. You can also use a small screw driver to depress the locking tabs, but they often get broken when forced apart.

Tom

klv · Post by **klv** » Sat Mar 22, 2008 10:06 am

Hi guys
Thanks for the tip - I'll head on tomorrow morning and check it out - been boxing up books and magazines today in preparation for our move!

Cheers

Andrew

mark · Post by **mark** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 11:09 am

Greetings all:

I am contemplating the removal and replacement of the engine mounts on my car. Has anyone gone through this? If so any helpful hints would be appreciated.

The questions I have are as follows:

What location is safe to jack the engine while removing and replacing?

Is it necessary to completely remove the exhasut system?

Is it necessary to remove the radiator hoses?

Thanks in advance.

Mark

klv · Post by **klv** » Fri May 02, 2008 2:50 am

Can't help with engine mount changes sorry Mark -surely Zac or someone like that has been through the process already...

My query is regarding the seat mount screws/bolts. Does anyone have a pic of what they should be like? I've just pulled the seats out of our car and it they don't seem right to be. They are basically phillips/cross head 'set screws' with a small head size relative to the bolt diameter. That and they are rather long as well, so it was very awkward to get the screws out. That was after I managed to undo the ones done up by the 200 pound gorilla...

Will try and post a pic of them later.

Andrew

Dan Sands · Post by **Dan Sands** » Fri May 02, 2008 9:48 am

Kelly,
I recently had the driver seat out and the screws were just like you described.
Dan

TOMKIZER · Post by **TOMKIZER** » Fri May 02, 2008 11:35 am

Andrew,
Mine are out so I measured one. They are M8 x 1.25 x 42mm long shank only, not including the head which is 5mm thick, 13mm diameter (round) and takes a 6mm Allen wrench. I can only assume mine are original. My car is a Euro model - SN 12293.
Tom Kizer

www.tomyang.net

365 GT 2 + 2 restoration

indicator switch

engine mounts