365 GT 2 + 2 restoration

[250GT]

A.D

Speedmeterdrive repair at Kerry's
"whats new "scroll down a few years.
http://www.parrotbyte.com/KBC/ferrari/PFCoupe/index.htm

C.

[A.D.]

NEED HELP :

The rear suspension has been overhauled-This took some time as i had to wait for some more parts from T Rutlands. These finally arrived and were fitted.

The car was then given for an entire new muffler system, pipes, mufflers et all.

After this, we thought we can now "finally" set the carbs.

At that moment the starter motor packed up (Again)

Checked the price of a new (as in reconditioned) starter, and after hearing the price decided to get the existing starter rewound.

This has been done, seems to be working fine, so now the attention has been turned back to "finally" setting the carbs.

Have now run into a problem.

I will try my best to describe it below:

The centre carb feeds four cylinders.

At idle two of these cylinders are missing (both are on the same side).

Upon revving to a fast rpm everything works fine.

If the carbs are switched around, the problem gets transferred to another set of cylinders.

My mechanic has explained to me that the reason it works fine upon revving and not on idle is that there are two sets of throttle plates-primary (used for idling) and secondary (used during higher rpm)

Tried cleaning the parts accessible from the outside. (remember these carbs were rebuilt by Mike Pierce so i am reluctant to open them up completely). We can, ofcourse, send the offending carb back to Mike to look at, but he is a looooong way away, and that would take a couple of months, at least.

However we seem to be running out of ideas and options.

Can anyone please suggest what we should be doing or looking at?

Thank you

Best

AD

[zac]

AD,

you answered your own question, if the problem switched when you switched carburators then there is a problem with that carb. If you went through the trouble of unbolting and switches the carbs than you should certainly be able to take the top off that carb and carefully pull the jets and clean out all the passages. Unless there is major issue with throttle shafts or damage to something internal most likely a piece of debris in the fuel got into the idle circuit that can be blown out with some carb spray and compressed air.

BTW if the starter gives you trouble again get one of those gear reduction starters from British Starters, originality guys don't like them but for people that actually use their cars they are the ticket.

Enjoy, the car. I have been to India a few times to visit a School my Mom runs but never saw anything remotely resembling a Vintage "F" car there, that must be a sight to see.

I hade some used DFIs that aren't perfect but are good for parts or as a loaners if you need it let me know.

Zac

[mdempsey]

AD,


BTW if the starter gives you trouble again get one of those gear reduction starters from British Starters, originality guys don't like them but for people that actually use their cars they are the ticket.



Zac

I have said starter and swear by it. I always have complete confidence that she will turn over just fine. And they are not too expensive.

Mark

[250GT]

AD,


BTW if the starter gives you trouble again get one of those gear reduction starters from British Starters, originality guys don't like them but for people that actually use their cars they are the ticket.



Zac

I have said starter and swear by it. I always have complete confidence that she will turn over just fine. And they are not too expensive.

Mark

Absolutly ,
A.D.
The best improvement you can make IMO.

For those who intended to drive there F- cars

C.

http://ferraris.server273.com/Ferraristarters.html

[mdempsey]

that and a decent alternator that actually charges when all things are running. the piece of mind knowing that I can replace my delco anywhere easily is beyond imagination!!

[250GT]

A.D

How high is youre RPM when engine is warm without choke?
After rebuild carbs these are PREFAB. to let the engine start and run.
you have to adjust and sychronize them nevetheless.!
I think every thing is OK.
I will explain later how to do this.
The sychro-adjust screws are place on both side of each carb horizontal.
To rich or let it run poorer these screws are placed under an angle of approx 70 degrees.
See pic below of 40 DCL-6 but yours are basicly the SAME.
Every thing ZAC says is correct.
To do this job is easy , there is a lot of hockus pocus about this issue.
will explain to night german time.

C.

[250GT]

A.D,
Thanks for you PM.
For the synchronisation you only need ONE synchrometer/ Flowmeter cost about 50€ or less
keep in mind when you adjust one side with the horzontaladjust screw,
the other side is slighty influenced so you must find a middle way
See below pics
Good luck
Let us know if the problem is solved.
thanks again

C

[TOMKIZER]

Hi A.D,

I think you will have a problem synchronizing your carbs with the synchronizer pictured by 250GT. The 40 DFI/5 carbs on your car are considerably different from the 40 DCL-6 carbs. I use an old style UNISYN similar to the one shown in your owner's manual on page 51. The 40 DFI/5 carbs have rectangular openings with choke plates that would interfere with the synchronizer shown by 250GT. Also, even the rectangular adapter shown in the owner's manual would not work without a minor modification. By the way, I couldn't find an adapter so I had to make one. I've attached photos of my setup in two posts, since three photos is the limit in each post. Other than the synchronizer hardware, the process is the same and not too complicated.

Tom Kizer

[TOMKIZER]

Hi A.D,

Here are the other two photos. The little wooden block is to keep the carburetor from swallowing the little rubber tab that seals the notch in the top of the carb inlet.

Tom Kizer

[250GT]

Hi A.D,

Here are the other two photos. The little wooden block is to keep the carburetor from swallowing the little rubber tab that seals the notch in the top of the carb inlet.

Tom Kizer

Hi Tom K,
several adaptor are available for the one I own also the squere mouth type.

http://www.alamomotorsports.com/weber/s ... izers.html

but your is simple something for the purist-------- nice org. one.

C.

[250GT]

For that price I cannot make my self one.
C.

[TOMKIZER]

Amazing! I've never seen that adapter before. Does it work well without leaking? Mine works fine but it takes practice to get everything perfectly positioned to eliminate leaks and get an accurate reading.

Thanks for the correction. It looks like it slides inside the carb top and sticks in place to free up both hands for making measurements and adjustments. And you're right - it's inexpensive.

Tom Kizer

[250GT]

Amazing! I've never seen that adapter before. Does it work well without leaking? Mine works fine but it takes practice to get everything perfectly positioned to eliminate leaks and get an accurate reading.

Thanks for the correction. It looks like it slides inside the carb top and sticks in place to free up both hands for making measurements and adjustments. And you're right - it's inexpensive.

Tom Kizer

TomKizer,
This meterial is made of soft rubber or plastic.
The question about leaking is irrelevant.
also to close the bypass !
if it leaks at one squer carbmouth, it will leak on ALL carbmouth 6 or 12.
All will have the same"mistake"
You are NOT searching or looking at a absolut value!!
All mouth should be approx. the same :thats what synchrone means
We call it here a vacuummeter(underpressure) which is a more funtional name. I think.
If the engine runs to high in the revs, you have to reduce the vacuum(sucking) in all openings .
About 800-1000rpm at idle must be correct.
Than mixture air/fuel screw have to be adjust.
The adaptor above forced everybody to close the choke in neutral position valve see outcuts on the rubberbody

ciao
C

[TOMKIZER]

TomKizer,
This meterial is made of soft rubber or plastic.
The question about leaking is irrelevant.
also to close the bypass !
if it leaks at one squer carbmouth, it will leak on ALL carbmouth 6 or 12.
All will have the same"mistake"
You are NOT searching or looking at a absolut value!!
All mouth should be approx. the same :thats what synchrone means
We call it here a vacuummeter(underpressure) which is a more funtional name. I think.
If the engine runs to high in the revs, you have to reduce the vacuum(sucking) in all openings .
About 800-1000rpm at idle must be correct.
Than mixture air/fuel screw have to be adjust.
The adaptor above forced everybody to close the choke in neutral position valve see outcuts on the rubberbody

ciao
C

I do not agree with all the things you wrote, but I decided long ago not to argue about relative things - and as someone once wrote,"It's only a hobby here." To me it's not worth an argument. Each of us has our preferences. I am not even consistent. For example, I have three different techniques for adjusting valve clearance. They all work and I cannot decide which is the best, so I use the easiest one - usually. And I made my own equipment for wheel alignment, not because I do not trust modern equipment, but because I do not trust the people operating the equipment. Besides, I'm retired and have the time to do silly things like making my own equipment and developing new techniques.

Cheers,

Tom Kizer