365 GT 2 + 2 restoration

[tyang]

Am in the process of recleaning the fuel tank, changing entire fuel line from tank to carb as well as return line to a copper line,

Hi A.D.

I'm not sure if copper lines are a good replacement unless it's made specifically for automotive applications. I think copper can work harden and crack. I've seen the British use a copper line for brakes, but it must be a special alloy. Stainless would be the best replacement for the fuel system with the fittings silver soldered in place.

Tom

[A.D.]

I have no Gaskets to seal the carb to the air cleaner.

Maybe the extra ones-with the rectangle cut out in the middle- are meant to go on top?It sounds logical. Please confirm.

Best

A.D.

[josh]

Am in the process of recleaning the fuel tank, changing entire fuel line from tank to carb as well as return line to a copper line,

Hi A.D.

I'm not sure if copper lines are a good replacement unless it's made specifically for automotive applications. I think copper can work harden and crack. I've seen the British use a copper line for brakes, but it must be a special alloy.

Cunifer is the stuff. From what i've read, it actually sounds pretty nice.. but it's not popular in the US at all, for whatever reason. So probably best to stick with what people know, IMHO.

Stainless would be the best replacement for the fuel system with the fittings silver soldered in place.

For my own car, i'm having Classic Tube bend up a set of brake and fuel lines to match my originals (which I sent them). I haven't gotten them yet, so I can't say how this will turn out.. but it seemed like a good idea at the time.

--Josh

[A.D.]

Still not completed the job i had outlined earlier-have been waiting for a flexible torque wrench to arrive so that i can ensure that the carbs are not overtorqued beyond 12 psi and that the torque is even on all four bolts failing which i have been warned that after a few starts-heating and cooling the bases will warp.The flexible torque wrench arrives tommorow so i should have news for you guys by next weekend.

Need your advice on an unrelated problem-Got the 500 SL out of the garage and removed the hard top (it has a removable hard top and also has a soft top which can be used when the hard top is removed) as the weather has become quite pleasant here-while removing the hard top i noticed that the base (which rests on the car ) has corroded very badly-it was not visible at all from the outside-and the car itself is fine too.

Any thoughts or suggestions on how i could rectify this? As i am concerned that regular patch repair may crack the rear windshield.


Please advise?

[tyang]

Need your advice on an unrelated problem-Got the 500 SL out of the garage and removed the hard top (it has a removable hard top and also has a soft top which can be used when the hard top is removed) as the weather has become quite pleasant here-while removing the hard top i noticed that the base (which rests on the car ) has corroded very badly-it was not visible at all from the outside-and the car itself is fine too.

Any thoughts or suggestions on how i could rectify this? As i am concerned that regular patch repair may crack the rear windshield.

Hi A.D.,

You are correct in assuming that a patch of filler here will probably not hold. Fiberglass matting with resin may be a little better. The best way would be to cut out the rust, and weld in steel.

Tom

[A.D.]

Does anyone know or have experience with Dayton wire whhels?
I understand that they manufacture new Borrani type ire wheels?

[tyang]

Does anyone know or have experience with Dayton wire whhels?
I understand that they manufacture new Borrani type ire wheels?

Hi A.D.,

I have not heard anything negative about Dayton, but I have not seen they're replica wheels. Are your wheels in such bad shape that you need new ones? I have two companies that restore wheels, and both do excellent jobs, even re-stamping the original markings on the rims. A third company restores them, but does not have the stamps. Look in my supplier's page for contact info, and use this site as a reference when calling.

Tom

[tim]

Greetings... Has any one seen Turrino Wheels made in England. Pictures look good. About $600 each http://www.wirewheels.co.uk/turrinop.htm Tim

[tim]

Greetings.. OOOPPPSSS Make the 600 BPS or about 1200 US Tim

[Rudy van Daalen Wetters]

Why would anyone not want to stick with the original Borranis on their Ferrari? Might as well cram a Chevy V-8 in the thing while you're at it.

Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
1966 330 GT s/n 8705

[A.D.]

Merry Christmas everybody!

Spent Christmas day working on the car.

The fuel line has been changed, (to galvanised steel) petrol tank been recleaned, fuel injection quality fuel filter fitted, and fuel line checked for leaks etc(with the ignition and therefore electric pump on).

However, before actually starting the car, wanted to check one point with you-Mike had warned me not to over torque the flange bolts on each carb-to maximum 12 psi.

I have been waiting all this time for a flexible torque wrench to arrive-got it today and set it at 12 psi and found that this seemed to be too much torque.So instead set the torque wrench to 12 NM, which i believe is about 9psi and torqued all four flange bolts to this setting on each carb.

My question is:

Is this 12 NM the correct amount of torque for the flange bolts of these carbs?

I hope i have not over tightened them!

I will wait for some feedback from you before starting the engine as i am told that the heating and cooling effect of the engine on over torqued carbs will make the bases bend, which is why i am being over cautious.

Please advise.

[mark]

Hi A.D.

I attached my carbs using a simple end wrench (spanner) I tightened everything in slow sequence. I used some hylomar on the gasket surfaces.

So far there is no distotion or leaks.

Mark

[A.D.]

An update:

Have now fitted the carbs on the car, changed the fuel line, changed the fuel filter, cleaned the fuel tank etc as described earlier.

We cranked the engine, but the car did not start (cleaned the plugs etc-usual cheks)-i am told because the car has been lying shut for so long-almost 9 months while waiting for the carbs to get fixed-that we suspect the compression has dropped again.

Have put some oil into the cylinders and are waiting for a few days and will try again.

[tyang]

An update:

Have now fitted the carbs on the car, changed the fuel line, changed the fuel filter, cleaned the fuel tank etc as described earlier.

We cranked the engine, but the car did not start (cleaned the plugs etc-usual cheks)-i am told because the car has been lying shut for so long-almost 9 months while waiting for the carbs to get fixed-that we suspect the compression has dropped again.

Have put some oil into the cylinders and are waiting for a few days and will try again.

Hi A.D.,

I doubt low compression has a lot to why the car does not start unless you have a hole in a piston! It started once before, so it should start again. It's either fuel or spark. Did you look down the carbs to see if fuel is squirting from the accellerator pumps as you moved the throttle rod? Starting a cold Ferrari engine take a lot of fuel. I often pump the accellerator pedal 3-4 times once the fuel bowls are primed before cranking.

If you've eliminated fuel as the problem, pull a spark plug wire, expose the metal end, hold the end a cm away from a ground source (somewhere away from any spilt fuel!), and crank the engine. You should see a spark.

Also make sure you have a strong battery. Sometimes the cranking of the starter drains the ignition system so much that there is not enough for the spark plugs.

Good luck, and I can't wait to hear you started the old girl up again!

Tom

[Michael Bayer]

AD Tom's advice is spot on. HANG IN THERE!!!