laser soldering

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andrew
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laser soldering

Post by andrew » Tue Jun 19, 2007 7:45 pm

The one remaining post on my crossed-flags trunk emblem recently broke off. Fortunately, the emblem is in fine shape (and it didn't happen while driving!), but now needs new bolts/posts attached to its back side. I've spoken to a few jewelers, and they don't want to touch it -- they fear that the heat created from soldering a new post on the emblem will crack the enamel on the other side. Of course, i don't want this to happen any more than they do.

So, my thought was to solder/weld a bolt/post to 2 new pieces of thin steel, slightly smaller than the surface area of each flag. Then, I would use a metal epoxy to attach the emblem to the steel plate & bolt assembly. This would have the advantages of (a) not requiring any soldering to the emblem itself, and (b) creating a large surface area for gluing.

I was about to take this route when I talked to one more jeweler who recommended laser soldering. He seemed completely unconcerned that the process would damage the emblem at all and said I could use bolts of any metal (hard steel comes to mind; the emblem appears to be brass or copper). My understanding is that laser soldering generates very low heat, which may solve the problem.

Anyone have experience or expertise with laser soldering? Should I try that or go with the glue route? Any thoughts are appreciated, thanks.
'64 330 America s/n 5109

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330GT
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Post by 330GT » Tue Jun 19, 2007 8:28 pm

Available new from:
http://www.black-barts.com
For the $100 or so, I wouldn't try and save the old one. Use it for a desk plaque or something else.
Regards, Kerry
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andrew
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Post by andrew » Tue Jun 19, 2007 8:59 pm

But...where's the fun in that?
'64 330 America s/n 5109

Koll
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Post by Koll » Wed Jun 20, 2007 1:48 am

Have you considered the JB Weld option?

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tyang
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Post by tyang » Wed Jun 20, 2007 9:18 am

The one from black barts is very nice. I have a set on my car.

Although I would personally buy a new one, have you considered using double stick tape? A lot of modern cars are using tape instead of posts. The welding option my cost you money that could be applied to buying a new one, and risk damaging the original one.

Tom
'63 330 America #5053

Timo
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Post by Timo » Wed Jun 20, 2007 10:14 am

And if insisting to use Your original one, another idea would possibly be the use of another product of space-age technology, self-adhesive 2-piece Velcro-tape (and I would only use the patented stuff, not a "knock-off"); which, while similar to Tom's idea, would allow easier replacement, if so desired at later date, without having to "pry" so hard between the paint on the trunk-lid and the emblem itself.
Timo

airsanford
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Post by airsanford » Wed Jun 20, 2007 10:48 am

3M #03609NA molding tape.

Use what the pros use.

afwrench
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Post by afwrench » Thu Jun 21, 2007 7:40 am

|Hi Andrew, talk to you local friendly dentist. We[not that Im local or even very friendly] send things ,such as removable partial dentures to dental labs for repairs and they use laser welding. It is done mostly to repair broken metal clasps and the like. Good luck, Mike PS it is more fun to fix something sometimes
72,365gtc4,14681,2007 599 GTB

andrew
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Post by andrew » Sat Jun 30, 2007 3:36 pm

Based on what folks recommended, I decided to try the laser soldering, knowing that I could get a replacement just in case it failed. For those who might consider this themselves, I'm pleased to report that it worked great. So, for $30, it's better than original, with tempered steel posts now.
'64 330 America s/n 5109

Rudy van Daalen Wetters
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Post by Rudy van Daalen Wetters » Sat Jun 30, 2007 8:26 pm

My thought would be to always try to work with an original piece of the car first. Replacing parts with after market pieces is way too easy and, to me, takes something away from the car. There are places that could redo the enamel badge even if it became damaged in the repair process. Anyways, glad to hear that the laser soldering is a viable option. I'd leave the double stick tape for a Chevy Suburban badge.

Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
1966 330 GT s/n 8705

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