Steering Wheel and Turn Signals

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sat Sep 15, 2007 7:08 pm

Hi Everyone.

I've had a broken turn signal stalk for a long time on my 330GTS. It's broken in the usual spot-thru the plastic that the chrome handle inserts into. Various glue fixits have not been forthcoming.

While at Concorso Italiano last month, I came across a booth manned by a fellow named Jim Simpson, whose business is named O.D.D. Parts Fabrication (Obsolete, Discontinued, Difficult-to-obtain). He deals with the material known as Unobtainium. He had a poster of examples of what he can repair/rebuild, and one picture was my turnsignal/headlight/wiper assembly. Long story short: I sent him my assembly, and he extensively rebuilt it. In particular, he fabricated new plastic pieces, which all three stalks mount into, as well as new stainless steel stalks, plastic tips, contacts, r/r wiring harness, etc. The fellow seemed experienced and competent.

Now, the real reason for my post: In reassembly, I have installed the turn signal unit on the column, but I have a confusion about the flange that goes over the end of the steering column (the steering wheel bolts to this flange). This flange is held in place by a key and a castle nut. When I disassembled this, the key fell out before I could see it in place. Now, on reassembly, the key is longer than the slot on the steering column, and will not lie flush in the groove. This "proud" presentation doesn't seem to allow the flange to go on the steering column. As this key is the main thing that mechanically connects the steering wheel to the column, I'm very relunctant to move forward.

Anyone out there that knows this set-up and would be kind enough to tutor me?

When I get it back together, I'll let you know how the rebuilt turn signal unit performs. Simpson also advertizes knobs, mech fuel pumps, switches, carbs, fasteners, knobs (either rebuilt or recasted/manufactured).

Thanks in advance.

Jim

Post by **tyang** » Sat Sep 15, 2007 7:26 pm

Hi Jim,

Does the woodruff key have a slight burr that needs to be filed off for it to fit better in the slot of the steering column?

I'm very interested in the results of the restoration. I saw this guy's booth at Concorso several years ago, but have not heard any personal accounts of his work. Keep us posted.

Tom

Yale · Post by **Yale** » Sat Sep 15, 2007 8:03 pm

http://www.oddparts.net/

Post by **330GT** » Sat Sep 15, 2007 9:12 pm

First, position the steering column so the slot is upwards. As Tom suggests, carefully file off any burrs, but in particular, don't take any off the sides or the steering wheel might end up being a little loose. Also check the slot in the hub to make sure that it doesn't have any rough places.

Then I put the key in the slot with a slight angle so the closest end is easier to start. Then I fit on the hub, wiggling it until it touches the angled key. Then with a pin punch, tap the back of the key into the slot so it is flat. Then the hub should just slide on.

My key had filed ends that matched the end curves in the slot. So check your fit for up and down and end for end.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sat Sep 15, 2007 9:43 pm

Well, as luck would have it, the slot on the column is facing downward. I'll have to jack the front of the car to be able to turn wheels so that the slot faces up. It sure seems the key is longer than the steering column slot, but is this deceptive and will fit with Kerry's technique? The darn thing had to fit before, as the steering wheel was in place and worked, right?
Regards,
Jim

Post by **tyang** » Sat Sep 15, 2007 11:57 pm

Hi Jim,

You're lucky it came out so easily. Some hubs get stuck in the taper, and are a bear to get out. Working with the slot on the bottom may make it harder to see what's going on. If it came apart, it should go back together.

Tom

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 2:09 am

Actually, I knew the hub would not come off without a struggle, so I used a gear puller from the outset.

Post by **330GT** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 9:28 am

Jim wrote:Well, as luck would have it, the slot on the column is facing downward. ...Regards,
Jim

That's not luck, but design. When the wheels are straight the slot is down. I made the same mistake the first time (of many) I took my hub off to fix the headlight switch. After that I've always remembered to turn the wheel 180 degrees.

Once you have it where you can see the slot, you'll be able to fit the key in the way it needs to be.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 2:38 pm

TaDa!

Switch assembly and steering wheel installed, and....all three functions (headlight, turn signals, and wipers) work as designed. The rebuild seems excellent and sturdy. Only thing i haven't confirmed is trn sig cancellation function.

Thanks for tutorial on the key-a little sanding with wet-&-dry, plus rotating the shaft so the notch was on top, did the trick.

One problem remains: the horn contact was inadvertently pushed about one inch down the column. It's trapped in a rubber insulation sleeve. Any advice on retrieving the cooper contact disc?

You guys are a big help.

Jim

Post by **tyang** » Mon Sep 17, 2007 9:05 pm

Hi Jim,

I didn't know that contact could be pushed in that far. Is there any way to dig around the edge of it to grab an edge and pull it back out with a pair of pliers?

Tom

Benjamin · Post by **Benjamin** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 12:46 am

Jim - Can you share with us the cost to fabricate/repair your switch assembly? Thanks, B.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 6:05 pm

Tom,

Yup, it's pushed down at least an inch and I can't pull it back up, as it's caught in the rubber tube that surrounds it. I was hesitant to pull too hard and either destroy the brass contact disc, or mutilate the soft rubber insulator.

Benjamin,

The cost was $998. This was a thorough rebuild, including fabrication of new plastic pieces for the stalks. I don't know what an OEM/used system would cost, if it could be found. And, you would still be plagued by aged/dated plastic which could be easily broken. Simpson uses modern materials, which are more robust.

afwrench · Post by **afwrench** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 7:12 pm

|Jim , would a little glycerin or light oil lube the rubber enough to permit you to tease the contact back up? Not seeing it I dont know if this makes any sense but could you use a drop of cyanoacrylate to on a small brush to bond to the disc and then pull it up? Some acetone/ nail polish remover could then clean the contact. Mike

Post by **330GT** » Wed Sep 19, 2007 7:41 pm

If the brass horn contact is the same as in the 330 GT, if you can't get it back up another way, I would be tempted to drill and tap it with something like a 6mm (or 1/4") tap. Then you can screw in a bolt and use a puller to ease back up. Just keep the drill and tap shavings out of the switch area. It will look funny, but nobody but you and your mechanic will ever know.

You can see where the contact on my car is marked by the puller.

klv · Post by **klv** » Tue May 20, 2008 7:35 am

If anyone else is struggling with aged switched! An update on the revival of the steering column switch for GianCarlo, our 365GT. It was in awful condition (wobbly stalks, indicators wouldn't self cancel, whole thing felt fragile & tatty). Unable to find a new switch, we sent the whole assembly for a little 'holiday' in California with Jim Simpson of ODDParts.

Well! How lovely to be able to report that he did an amazing, wonderful job on rebuilding the switch. It is much better than new. He was ultra professional and highly organised to deal with and very re-assuring (it was a bit nerve wracking sending an important part such a long way).

The job had to be turned around promptly and this he did also. It was not a small piece of work to bring the switch back to life but at $1200 including freight it is was very good value for money. The rebuild was complex. The work is top quality, and the hourly rate for re-manufacturing and improving the weak parts of the switch was very fairly priced. Thank goodness for this forum because we wouldn't have found Jim without it!

If anyone wants to see pics of the switch we can provide these of course.

Additionally - as a comparison we bought a new (repro) column switch for a '71 Alfa Romeo and it's cheaply/nastily made and doesn't work properly and has been a source of great angst and annoyance. Grrr.