PS. one water pump spring I saw once was made from coat hanger wire. Classy.
Rudy
Inferior Parts
There is a way to test the water pump spring.
I bought a new problematic seal and pressure tested the pump by using a standard cooling system pressure tester. I plugged the inlet and pressurized the outlet.
An original spring held 40-50 psi and the new spring held 15PSI!!!
I now do some mods to the seals/springs and pressure test each one.
I bought a new problematic seal and pressure tested the pump by using a standard cooling system pressure tester. I plugged the inlet and pressurized the outlet.
An original spring held 40-50 psi and the new spring held 15PSI!!!
I now do some mods to the seals/springs and pressure test each one.
This is a good question Art. It seems like there have been a lot of individual discussions with Ferrari Classiche department, but not much information about what they will provide beyond car certification. There are claims that they will now make parts that were previously unavailable, but there haven't been many specifics on what they will make and when.Art S. wrote: I wonder if this situation will improve with Ferrari getting into the classic parts game.
Rather than having individuals reach out to Classiche, it might be worthwhile for a representative from this site to reach out to them on behalf of many owners. It's obviously not going to create enough leverage to steer Ferrari's priorities, but it should warrant a discussion with someone senior at Ferrari to relay concerns about the parts issue because it does take a lot of fun out of ownership. We might learn about some sources available now we didn't know about and it might influence Classiche's long-term direction since our views probably represent the majority of their owners (since most aren't going to ship cars to Italy for certification, though that's who they seem to be catering to now).
Peter P
1966 330 2+2 series 2 #8169
1966 330 2+2 series 2 #8169
Gentlemen,
Jens Paulsen suggested I contact Cometics for a head gasket. He said to take an old gasket and mark any changes (bigger bores, correct alignment pin locations, for example) on it, send it to them and they will return new, presumably correctly-fitting-and-sealing gaskets. My other suppliers are JE for pistons and rings and ARP for studs and rod bolts. Not the cheapest (although $2100 for a set of JEs is better than $3600 for a set of, arguably, lesser-quality Borgos). I think the quality suppliers are out there if one looks and is willing to pay the price. I had ARP make five sets of studs for a 330 so I could sell four and offset the set-up costs for my set. It looks like the higher price for good quality would be more than offset by the cost of repairs needed when the poor-quality parts fail.
Tom
Jens Paulsen suggested I contact Cometics for a head gasket. He said to take an old gasket and mark any changes (bigger bores, correct alignment pin locations, for example) on it, send it to them and they will return new, presumably correctly-fitting-and-sealing gaskets. My other suppliers are JE for pistons and rings and ARP for studs and rod bolts. Not the cheapest (although $2100 for a set of JEs is better than $3600 for a set of, arguably, lesser-quality Borgos). I think the quality suppliers are out there if one looks and is willing to pay the price. I had ARP make five sets of studs for a 330 so I could sell four and offset the set-up costs for my set. It looks like the higher price for good quality would be more than offset by the cost of repairs needed when the poor-quality parts fail.
Tom
Tom Treue
67 330GT 2+2, No. 9129 (former owner)
67 330GT 2+2, No. 9129 (former owner)
head gaskets
I received the third set of head gaskets, this time from Part Source. These have the red silicon bead around the perimeter as well as around each stud hole. I pressurized the water jacket to 40 PSI and had no leaks so I think I finally found a good set of gaskets. One of my books wants me to pressurize it to 125 PSI but the rubber caps I am using to seal the hose fittings were getting scary at 40 PSI so I stopped. Geof at Part Source and a friend of his said the correct head torque is 72- 73 ft lbs though everything I have says 60 ft lbs. I torqued them to 73 with no problem. I wonder now that if these gaskets are single torque style and the engine was designed to be retorqued should I still retorque in 300 miles? Thanks everyone for your suggestions and help.
Dan
Dan
Dan Sands
1969 365 GT 2+2 12629
1969 365 GT 2+2 12629
Let the head sit for a day or so, and re-torque. I drove my car for about 1000 miles and re-torqued the head. The big thing is to hope for no leaks t startup. I've got my fingers crossed for you!I received the third set of head gaskets, this time from Part Source. These have the red silicon bead around the perimeter as well as around each stud hole. I pressurized the water jacket to 40 PSI and had no leaks so I think I finally found a good set of gaskets. One of my books wants me to pressurize it to 125 PSI but the rubber caps I am using to seal the hose fittings were getting scary at 40 PSI so I stopped. Geof at Part Source and a friend of his said the correct head torque is 72- 73 ft lbs though everything I have says 60 ft lbs. I torqued them to 73 with no problem. I wonder now that if these gaskets are single torque style and the engine was designed to be retorqued should I still retorque in 300 miles? Thanks everyone for your suggestions and help.
Dan
Tom
'63 330 America #5053