Fispa fuel pump...

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kare
Posts: 547
Joined: Sun Sep 22, 2002 11:34 am
Location: Helsinki, Finland, Europe

Fispa fuel pump...

Post by kare »

Would somebody care to remember which way the actuator arm (sheet metal pieces connecting the actuator to diaphragm) are installed? I think I know which way to install it, but my notes are not 100% clear and I would like to be sure...

http://koti.welho.com/kpietil4/osia/img_3766.jpg
http://koti.welho.com/kpietil4/osia/img_3767.jpg
250 GT 2+2 3197/GT
Rudy van Daalen Wetters
Posts: 1206
Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2004 5:53 pm

Post by Rudy van Daalen Wetters »

Kare,

What specific area are you having problems with on the arms as far as assembly? I have a spare pump in pieces so perhaps we can go through it together if you want. The arms are notorious for breaking and cracking.
I ended up making my own arms out of stronger metal and it works fine. Both my electrical and mechanical pump went out within two miles of each other. I don't want to ever have to push that car off the freeway again ( was 1/2 mile).

Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
1966 330 GT s/n 8705
kare
Posts: 547
Joined: Sun Sep 22, 2002 11:34 am
Location: Helsinki, Finland, Europe

Post by kare »

No problems. Just another component I pulled to be sure and which turned out to be in 100% perfect order.
John Vardanian
Posts: 1906
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 12:13 am
Location: San Francisco Area

Post by John Vardanian »

Hi Kare,

They are supposed to be as per your 3767.jpg. It makes a big difference from one way to the other. If everything is as factory spec, and you run the pump with the tabs installed per 3766.jpg, the tabs will shatter after a few miles. This is from personal experience.

However, if the push rod is mushroomed or the "pad" is dimpled badly, the pump's delivery volume will diminish. By flipping the tabs to work per 3766.jpg, you may remedy the problem of fuel starvation. Again, from personal experience.

john
PF Coupe
kare
Posts: 547
Joined: Sun Sep 22, 2002 11:34 am
Location: Helsinki, Finland, Europe

Post by kare »

Thanks a million! My thoughts followed a very similar path.

Best wishes, Kare
250 GT 2+2 3197/GT
kare
Posts: 547
Joined: Sun Sep 22, 2002 11:34 am
Location: Helsinki, Finland, Europe

Post by kare »

BTW John, do you (or anyone else) have a good idea how to lock the actuator shaft into it's place?

I am not going to hammer the bore with a screwdriver as had been done by the factory mechanic and I'm thinking of possible alternatives...

Best wishes, Kare
250 GT 2+2 3197/GT
Rudy van Daalen Wetters
Posts: 1206
Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2004 5:53 pm

Post by Rudy van Daalen Wetters »

Kare,

Would you consider slightly knurling one end of the shaft? It is a tight fit to begin with. I have had a broken shaft in the past as well, split right in the middle.

Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
1966 330 GT s/n 8705
John Vardanian
Posts: 1906
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 12:13 am
Location: San Francisco Area

Post by John Vardanian »

Hi Rudy,

My friend's GTB had that same problem, where the shaft would slowly creep out of its hole. The fix way easy: Loctite.

On another subject, those flat tabs are hardened steel. They can take some serious load, but if you abuse them they will break. They are easy enough to replace and in fact a number of them have been replace, albeit, with stock from the local hardware store. Which means they flex and bend into a comfortable shape and by doing so reduce stroke, and thus, fuel delivery.

john
PF Coupe
Rudy van Daalen Wetters
Posts: 1206
Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2004 5:53 pm

Post by Rudy van Daalen Wetters »

Hi John,

Yes, my arms had been installed upside down and just like with your experience, broke after ten miles.. The shaft was still firmly in place yet
broken right in the middle. Another saga in the continuing series of catastrophic failure tales.

Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
1966 330 GT s/n 8705
kare
Posts: 547
Joined: Sun Sep 22, 2002 11:34 am
Location: Helsinki, Finland, Europe

Post by kare »

John Vardanian wrote:On another subject, those flat tabs are hardened steel. They can take some serious load, but if you abuse them they will break. They are easy enough to replace and in fact a number of them have been replace, albeit, with stock from the local hardware store.
A complicated design, where the first part to break will be a pair of simple steel tabs is IMO a very clever and usefriendly design!
250 GT 2+2 3197/GT
rshim1
Posts: 32
Joined: Sun Apr 06, 2008 4:32 pm
Location: Plymouth, MI

Post by rshim1 »

I am looking for a top for my engine mounted fuel pump. The plater lost mine while I was having it rebuilt. Hopefully somebody has a spare top to sell. I do not want to buy a complete pump to get the top.

Thanks, Roger
250 PF Cab. SN 3783
Jimmyr
Posts: 447
Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2004 11:20 pm
Location: Scottsdale, AZ

Post by Jimmyr »

Roger, there is a Fispa top cover on eBay now that might work.
kare
Posts: 547
Joined: Sun Sep 22, 2002 11:34 am
Location: Helsinki, Finland, Europe

Post by kare »

Lucky bastard!!!
User avatar
TOMKIZER
Posts: 412
Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2005 1:51 pm
Location: Québec City

Re: Fispa fuel pump...

Post by TOMKIZER »

kare wrote:Would somebody care to remember which way the actuator arm (sheet metal pieces connecting the actuator to diaphragm) are installed? I think I know which way to install it, but my notes are not 100% clear and I would like to be sure...

http://koti.welho.com/kpietil4/osia/img_3766.jpg
http://koti.welho.com/kpietil4/osia/img_3767.jpg
Kare,
You have a PM regarding this old 2008 post.
Tom Kizer
So many sidewalk cafés - so little time left.
1969 365 GT 2+2 S/N 12293 (Gone but not forgotten)
1967 230 SL 4-spd (Currently on CPR)
Rudy van Daalen Wetters
Posts: 1206
Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2004 5:53 pm

Re: Fispa fuel pump...

Post by Rudy van Daalen Wetters »

In the correct way...

Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
1966 330 GT s/n 8705
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