Last minute questions

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Dan Sands
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2007 1:32 pm
Location: Salem, OR

Last minute questions

Post by Dan Sands »

I finally got the car on the road! I have a few questions.
Do I need to re torque the heads? I used the Australian gaskets from GT Car Parts, I know you normally would but don’t they use a harder no re torque material now?
I can’t find any information on how to properly adjust the air screws on the carburetors. What is the correct setting procedure? I have the carbs synchronized and the idle mixture set but I get a small cough out one carb at take off, just off idle. And I can’t remember what I set the air mixture screws at but it was totally random but I set them all the same before synchronizing the carbs.
I had the A/C recharged yesterday and I couldn’t find a spec for how much Freon. We ended up adding 3 ½ lbs. The ambient temperature was around 50 deg. And we added Freon till the sight glass ran clear. I am afraid that when the ambient temperature rises to 90 deg + that I might run into an over pressure problem.
The fuel gauge isn’t working though it worked the last time it ran, the schematic shows one of the wires running through a relay I can only think that is the power wire and the relay operates something else. I checked the wire connections at the sending unit and they looked good.
The drivers door window won’t open I fear it may be the “whale grease” ha ha, that Tom spoke about in the past, hardening to a solid. I really don’t feel like pulling the window motor out!
I am supposed to drive the car from Salem Oregon to the Bay Area in two weeks 636 miles to deliver to my Dad after spending the last four years restoring the mechanicals. I can’t thank you all enough for all the help and advice that I have received from this web site; it would have been far more difficult without your help.
Thanks, Dan
Dan Sands
1969 365 GT 2+2 12629
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tyang
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Re: Last minute questions

Post by tyang »

Dan Sands wrote:I finally got the car on the road! I have a few questions.
Do I need to re torque the heads? I used the Australian gaskets from GT Car Parts, I know you normally would but don’t they use a harder no re torque material now?
I can’t find any information on how to properly adjust the air screws on the carburetors. What is the correct setting procedure? I have the carbs synchronized and the idle mixture set but I get a small cough out one carb at take off, just off idle. And I can’t remember what I set the air mixture screws at but it was totally random but I set them all the same before synchronizing the carbs.
I had the A/C recharged yesterday and I couldn’t find a spec for how much Freon. We ended up adding 3 ½ lbs. The ambient temperature was around 50 deg. And we added Freon till the sight glass ran clear. I am afraid that when the ambient temperature rises to 90 deg + that I might run into an over pressure problem.
The fuel gauge isn’t working though it worked the last time it ran, the schematic shows one of the wires running through a relay I can only think that is the power wire and the relay operates something else. I checked the wire connections at the sending unit and they looked good.
The drivers door window won’t open I fear it may be the “whale grease” ha ha, that Tom spoke about in the past, hardening to a solid. I really don’t feel like pulling the window motor out!
I am supposed to drive the car from Salem Oregon to the Bay Area in two weeks 636 miles to deliver to my Dad after spending the last four years restoring the mechanicals. I can’t thank you all enough for all the help and advice that I have received from this web site; it would have been far more difficult without your help.
Thanks, Dan
We still re torque after 1000 miles. It's also a chance to make sure everything is working properly, and not wearing abnormally.

It won't take much to take a peek inside the window to see what's wrong. With electric windows, it could be something simple or something horrible. The only way to know is to pull that door panel off. Do you feel lucky?

I would love to see the look on your Dad's face when he sees his car pull up in his driveway. Good luck on the delivery!

Tom
'63 330 America #5053
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Yale
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Post by Yale »

I assume you are talking about a Series 2 330GT? Kerry has the air con manual downloadable on his site have you looked at that? Best, Yale
Ex - 1964 330GT #6097
1963 Abarth Monomille
1970 Porsche 911S
1974 BMW 2002turbo
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Yale
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Post by Yale »

Sorry just saw your signature.
Ex - 1964 330GT #6097
1963 Abarth Monomille
1970 Porsche 911S
1974 BMW 2002turbo
Jimmyr
Posts: 447
Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2004 11:20 pm
Location: Scottsdale, AZ

Post by Jimmyr »

Dan, It is always smart to retorque the heads no matter what head gasket type you used. You will see the difference on the torque wrench when you redo the heads. As for the cough in the carb, a little richer on that carbs idle mixture screw usually solves the problem. Jim
mark
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a/c

Post by mark »

Hi Dan:

The compressor uses 2 kg of refrigerant. It took a while to track that down which is why I remember it.

Enjoy the drive down, it is a beautiful stretch of the West Coast. I recommend highway 1 which is the preferred route of travel that I use to get to Monterey each August.

Cheers

Mark
69 365 gt 2+2, 12659
98 M3, 02 Porsche 996
98 550 Maranello
Rudy van Daalen Wetters
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Post by Rudy van Daalen Wetters »

Dan,

Go in small increments on that mixture screw. Start with a 1/8th turn
out and see what happens. After a good drive, pull the plugs and see what they tell you.

Good luck,

Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
1966 330 GT s/n 8705
Dan Sands
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2007 1:32 pm
Location: Salem, OR

Post by Dan Sands »

I followed one of my books on the idle mixture screw adjustment. It had me lower the idle completely on two carbs and raise it on just one, then turn the mixture screws out on that carb till the RPMs were at their highest. I ended up fouling the plugs at idle after a short time. The way I was taught was to turn the screws in until it stumbles then back them out 1/4 turn. I ended up doing as the book said then turning the screws in 1/2 turn to stop the plugs from fouling and it runs much better.

I still have no idea where the air adjustment screws should be set, I know if I mess with one it throws off the the sync between the two venturies. So I set them all the same then adjusted the gear linkage between the two butterflies till they were in sync.

I think the rear springs are sagging, because the camber in the rear was way off and it was going to take a ton of shims to correct, so I left it alone for now.
Are springs still available?
Dan
Dan Sands
1969 365 GT 2+2 12629
Dan Sands
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2007 1:32 pm
Location: Salem, OR

Post by Dan Sands »

Tomorrow I will try fattening up the mixture a hair and see how it runs.
Thanks, Dan
Dan Sands
1969 365 GT 2+2 12629
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tyang
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Post by tyang »

Could worn out load leveling shocks cause some of the rear sag and negative camber?

Tom
'63 330 America #5053
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Bryan P
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Post by Bryan P »

tyang wrote:Could worn out load leveling shocks cause some of the rear sag and negative camber?

Tom
absolutely - and since I haven't heard of anyone achieving consistent or long-term success w/ rebuilding the levelers, I spent $70 on Monroe Air-max shocks and ran the air line and valve to a spot next to the spare tire. When the rear looks low, I simply hook the compressor to it and put the tape measure next to the high point of the rear wheel arch until my desired ride height is achieved. I only need to do this about once or twice a year.
1968 365 GT 2+2
s/n 11199
1955 s.II 500 Mondial
s/n 0556(0446)MD
1965 Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint Speciale
Deane
Posts: 141
Joined: Tue Sep 03, 2002 11:43 pm
Location: Cupertino. CA

Post by Deane »

Dan,

If you are driving anywhere near Berkeley, make an appt to stop by Patrick Ottis' shop (off the Gilman exit from 880) for a final curburetor tweak. He is the best there is in my experience, and also a really high-quality individual.

Deane
Deane
'67 330GTS (gone but not forgotten)
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