Marelli distributors...

[kare]

Found a case of wrong hands having been inside my distributors. About every screw is bent and even one of the point adjusters is broken (DOH!). Few questions:

How do you remove the upper bearing? Guess it should just pull up, maybe I need to make a tool to get it out...?

Where do you get points (Marelli S85A, point set 710071)? My points look like new, but one spring is broken and the sliding blocks are quite worn. I think the fit to the axle has been too tight.

Bottom plates (under the points) can be adjusted a little. When distributors are assembled these plates are just put in at 180 degrees apart, right. There should be no need to adjust the operation by moving them. Mine were off course at the opposite ends of the play...

[Admiral Goodwrench]

Dear Kare,

Might suggest contacting John Whittington in Woodstock, Virginia for answers to your distributor questions. I had him test, adjust and set up mine.

He should still be at: jwwhittington@gmail.com

Best regards,

[67GTC]

I've bought several sets of points, including a set on the plates from Rutlands. Good stuff, they've been working well!

http://www.trutlands.com/

Chuck

[tyang]

Hi Kare,

Francois has a small two claw puller that pulls the upper bearing once the bevel head screws are removed.

I believe the adjustment between the two sets allows you to phase them exactly 180 degrees apart but has to be checked on a distributor machine.

You have to make sure the phenolic block is not too tight on the pivot. We have a reamer that is specific to the diameter of the post to make sure the points fit right.

Tom

[John Vardanian]

Hi Kare,

You can visually set the two plates apart 180 deg and that would be good enough. But if you really want the engine to sing, you'll set the spacing exactly 60 deg apart on the Sun at about 2000 distributor RPM. It makes a noticeable difference in engine performance at higher RPMs.

The machine will also allow you to set all four points dwells exactly the same.

john

[Rudy van Daalen Wetters]

Kare,

I used a small puller with claws on the bearing and it worked fine.
Be careful on the replacement bearing and make sure it is precisely
the same height as the original. At first, I was supplied a new bearing
from one our regular sources. It was about .5mm too high and with
the top plate on caused some binding issues. The top plate has a ridge
on the bottom that should fit perfectly flush on top of the bearing.

The sun machine is the only setup on these Marellis. Thanks to John's
schematic, I had a nice adaptor made to accomodate the distributor.

Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
1966 330 GT s/n 8705

[kare]

Francois has a small two claw puller that pulls the upper bearing once the bevel head screws are removed.

Does Francois pull the bearing together with the "X-frame" or separately?

You have to make sure the phenolic block is not too tight on the pivot. We have a reamer that is specific to the diameter of the post to make sure the points fit right.

Do you have a gut feeling that reaming the block really removed material.

[tyang]

Hi Kare,

I believe the bearing comes out with the x-frame, and then can be pressed out once the assembly is removed from the body of the distributor. I can confirm this the next time I'm at the shop. I've done this before, but often remember when the part is in my hand. That's why I have this website, otherwise I wouldn't remember anything!

Reaming the phenolic block insures a nice fit. As with anything mechanical, when you make things fit nicely, things work better.

Tom

[kare]

That last message escaped without me noticing; guess it does not really make a difference in which way the upper bearing is removed. My bearings seem to be OK but it is incomfortably in the way when removing and installing points. My points really show you should ream them; the points look like they just came out of the box, but still the cam follower is worn...

[airsanford]

it is very important to use distributor cam lube when installing new points; I have seen points close up in less than 500 miles if installed dry. Carefully inspect the surface on the distributor cam itself; if it is worn and rough, it will quickly grind off the rubbing block.

I also use it on the pivot pins. It doesn't take much.

Lee GTE 2811

[kare]

Carefully inspect the surface on the distributor cam itself; if it is worn and rough, it will quickly grind off the rubbing block.

Suspecting the worst here. Can the lobes be reground or should I have new ones made?

BTW; how is the coil/central/main wire taken off the distributor caps?

[tyang]

BTW; how is the coil/central/main wire taken off the distributor caps?

There's a flat headed brass screw inside the cap that has a sharp point on the end. It pierces the ignition wire, holding it to the cap.

Tom

[kare]

Under that carbon thingy? How do I remove the carbon contact to reach the screw then? I would hate to break the cap trying...

[tyang]

I'm sorry Kare, that's another thing I remember only when I hold the part in my hand! The carbon contact and spring behind it come out with a twist. Turning the spring against the way it's wound will allow it to release out of the hole.

Tom

[John Vardanian]

Hi Kare,

You'll need a smallish two-claw puller. It has to be small enough so the claws go thru the X frame. If the two little screw that hold in place the bearing cover are fastened in place the X frame and the bearing will slide off the shaft as a unit.

The wire piercing screws are pretty soft brass. Use a fine tipped screw driver and make sure you apply completely vertical and deliberate downward force as you turn the screw driver. This will prevent stripping the slot at the head of the screw.

john