Front suspension washers/spacers
Front suspension washers/spacers
I can finally resume reassembling my front suspension. The spacer/washers that adjust end play of the suspension uprights were worn enough that I would have had a loose front end, and there was no other source for replacements.
Following John Vardanian's advice, I ordered some thick walled bronze tubing from McMaster-Carr and a friend and I machined a new set of washers with his lathe and milling machine.
I've attached a photo of the bronze stock, some new washers in various thicknesses, and the old worn washers.
Another "small step for 4437"
John Tarr
Following John Vardanian's advice, I ordered some thick walled bronze tubing from McMaster-Carr and a friend and I machined a new set of washers with his lathe and milling machine.
I've attached a photo of the bronze stock, some new washers in various thicknesses, and the old worn washers.
Another "small step for 4437"
John Tarr
Beautiful.
Regards, Kerry
http://www.330gt.com 330 GT Registry
http://www.parrotbyte.com/kbc/ferrari 250 PF Coupe 1643GT, 330 GT 2+2 8755GT, 308 GTS 23605
http://www.330gt.com 330 GT Registry
http://www.parrotbyte.com/kbc/ferrari 250 PF Coupe 1643GT, 330 GT 2+2 8755GT, 308 GTS 23605
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Front suspension washers/spacers
I ordered the thick walled ultra machinable bronze tubing. It was 1 3/4 OD and 3/4 ID, which required relatively little turning down and boring out to match the diameters of the washers.
The notches on the inner bore allow grease to flow to the eccentric groove, which distributes it over the face of the washer. They were cut with a small drill bit chucked in a drill press and fed VERY slowly so they didn't wander.
After the turning and boring, it was relatively easy to slice the tube into washers of appropriate thickness with a parting tool. The eccentric groove was cut by mounting the washers on a drill press and cutting them with a holesaw with the teeth ground to a round profile. I had planned to cut them with a milling machine, but the holesaw worked just fine without having to grind an expensive milling bit to the size of the grooves.
Since this required using somebody else's tools, I'm now attempting to resist "having" to get a Smithy lathe/milling machine so I can "save" money that I might otherwise spend on machinists if friends are unavailable.
John Tarr
The notches on the inner bore allow grease to flow to the eccentric groove, which distributes it over the face of the washer. They were cut with a small drill bit chucked in a drill press and fed VERY slowly so they didn't wander.
After the turning and boring, it was relatively easy to slice the tube into washers of appropriate thickness with a parting tool. The eccentric groove was cut by mounting the washers on a drill press and cutting them with a holesaw with the teeth ground to a round profile. I had planned to cut them with a milling machine, but the holesaw worked just fine without having to grind an expensive milling bit to the size of the grooves.
Since this required using somebody else's tools, I'm now attempting to resist "having" to get a Smithy lathe/milling machine so I can "save" money that I might otherwise spend on machinists if friends are unavailable.
John Tarr
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John T,
Another way to cut that eccentric groove fairly easily is with a 4 jaw chuck on a lathe. Many lathes came with these chucks but they rarely get used since the advent of CNC machines. I know mine has one and it hasn't been used it about 2 decades but, it would be perfect for this.
Another way to cut that eccentric groove fairly easily is with a 4 jaw chuck on a lathe. Many lathes came with these chucks but they rarely get used since the advent of CNC machines. I know mine has one and it hasn't been used it about 2 decades but, it would be perfect for this.
John Viveiros
1964 250 GTL
1964 250 GTL