The way to see if your hubs are reversed is to remember "Off to the front." Always hit the ear to the front of the car when taking hubs off.
Richard, even if you double the torque of the wrench by using a pipe, couldn't you damage the head of the torque wrench (or affect the calibration) by applying that much force? I hope to find a simple 3/4 inch breaker bar with a pipe on the end for my tool.
Tom
Knock Off Nut Torque
Tom , you are correct, if you use a pipe as an extension on torque wrench you'll eventually damage the wrench. The only time I ever use a pipe is on a 3/4 ratchet or even safer on a 1/2 or 3/4 inch flex handle or extension bar as some call it.
The extension I made for the tool I use is a 3/4 slide bar handle, weld the 3/4 inch socket to the bar and then weld a 1/2 socket adapter 180 dgrees on the other end. It just happens to work out to 12 inches which will double the torque.
I use a large socket 4 1/8 and cut out areas for the three or two ears depending the car. I'm not computer smart enough to figure out how to put pictures on the thread, otherwise I'd have pictures.
Richard Garre, Radcliffe Motorcar Company.
The extension I made for the tool I use is a 3/4 slide bar handle, weld the 3/4 inch socket to the bar and then weld a 1/2 socket adapter 180 dgrees on the other end. It just happens to work out to 12 inches which will double the torque.
I use a large socket 4 1/8 and cut out areas for the three or two ears depending the car. I'm not computer smart enough to figure out how to put pictures on the thread, otherwise I'd have pictures.
Richard Garre, Radcliffe Motorcar Company.
Hi Richard,8339 wrote:Tom , you are correct, if you use a pipe as an extension on torque wrench you'll eventually damage the wrench. The only time I ever use a pipe is on a 3/4 ratchet or even safer on a 1/2 or 3/4 inch flex handle or extension bar as some call it.
The extension I made for the tool I use is a 3/4 slide bar handle, weld the 3/4 inch socket to the bar and then weld a 1/2 socket adapter 180 dgrees on the other end. It just happens to work out to 12 inches which will double the torque.
I use a large socket 4 1/8 and cut out areas for the three or two ears depending the car. I'm not computer smart enough to figure out how to put pictures on the thread, otherwise I'd have pictures.
Richard Garre, Radcliffe Motorcar Company.
I definitely want to find a 3/4 inch breaker bar with a sliding head. There's nothing to break, and will not send the handle into a fender when applying a lot of force.
If Patty runs your website, she knows how to upload pictures to the internet. She just needs to show you how to get them to show up in these messages. Have her read the tutorial at the top of this forum, and it will all make sense!
Tom
Tom
'63 330 America #5053
To date my method is to place a 2x4 piece of oak on the ear, beath the hell out of it with the hammer, hit the lip of the wheel and cus like anything, throw the hammer and oak across the driveway. Do this four times and you are done.
Now that I have 9 wheels that have been re-done, or are being re-done, Mr. 8339 is making me one of his tools to use with my TR (torgue wrench, not Testarossa)
Now that I have 9 wheels that have been re-done, or are being re-done, Mr. 8339 is making me one of his tools to use with my TR (torgue wrench, not Testarossa)
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Rudy van Daalen Wetters
- Posts: 1206
- Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2004 5:53 pm
Enzo called the other day and asked me why he would put a lead hammer in the trunk of the Ferraris if they weren't meant to be used. He then
asked me why are they called "knock offs", since that is how you are supposed to take them off. He then stated that some things should be
done by feel and intuition and that you can't measure everything all the
time. I respect this man and his Italian spirit.
Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
1966 330 GT s/n 8705
asked me why are they called "knock offs", since that is how you are supposed to take them off. He then stated that some things should be
done by feel and intuition and that you can't measure everything all the
time. I respect this man and his Italian spirit.
Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
1966 330 GT s/n 8705
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steve lapp
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2005 10:48 am
- Location: Ontario, Canada
Richard:
Just want to clarify what you said about using a longer handle on the torque wrench. I think if it is the type that clicks at the desired torque setting, the torque is being measured at the drive point, so it should not matter what additional length you add to the wrench.
If it is an old torque wrench that has the long steel rod to a dial, it may be more sensitve to exactly where you hold it but should be roughly correct still.
As to knock offs coming loose, me experience (with healeys too) is that they always get tighter, not looser - other than having hubs on wrong side of car, how do they come loose?
Cheers
Just want to clarify what you said about using a longer handle on the torque wrench. I think if it is the type that clicks at the desired torque setting, the torque is being measured at the drive point, so it should not matter what additional length you add to the wrench.
If it is an old torque wrench that has the long steel rod to a dial, it may be more sensitve to exactly where you hold it but should be roughly correct still.
As to knock offs coming loose, me experience (with healeys too) is that they always get tighter, not looser - other than having hubs on wrong side of car, how do they come loose?
Cheers
Steve Lapp
Ontario Canada
2013 Nissan Leaf, 2002 Prius, 56 Healey 100-4, 74 BMW 2002, 330 GT 2+2 s/n 6241, 54 Dodge M152 (listed by decreasing fuel economy)
Ontario Canada
2013 Nissan Leaf, 2002 Prius, 56 Healey 100-4, 74 BMW 2002, 330 GT 2+2 s/n 6241, 54 Dodge M152 (listed by decreasing fuel economy)
Steve, even with a click type torque wrench the extension changes the torque loading. If you are using just a straight extension that is on the same plane as the drive you are correct the torque stays the same. Snap-On used to carry a torque wrench calculator to figure it out. I'm old enough that I have one, it's actually a slide rule, I'm really showing my age now!
Richard Garre, Radcliffe Motorcar Company
Richard Garre, Radcliffe Motorcar Company
Richard mentioned regarding putting 'anti-seaze' on the 'cone' at the rear of the hub. I assume he means the tapered/angled section inboard of the spline on the hub? I was told many years ago (in relation to Dunlop wires on an English car...) that you should not lubricate that section, but keep it clean. Does anyone have a definitive answer in that regard?
Andrew
Andrew
Kelly La Velle & Andrew Stevens
300 ft/lb is a little too high. I would recommend 270-280 ft/lb. That is what we use in our shop. Anything more than that, and it becomes very difficult to remove the knock-off with a hammer. Be sure that the surface of the knock-off that touches the wheel is lubricated with grease (not antiseize) and that you snug the knock-off up ( I use a large plastic dead-blow hammer) while the wheel is still in the air.
50% of the cars that come into our shop have loose wheels.
Brian Brown
Patrick Ottis Co.
50% of the cars that come into our shop have loose wheels.
Brian Brown
Patrick Ottis Co.
Hi everyone, as promised I have added a section on my website that explains how to make a wheel nut tool. www.rmccar.com If you go the the Tech Session you'll find the instructions and pictures to make the tool. More than once in the instructions you notice that I state if someone has a better idea or a better way to make the tool, I'm all ears. Any additional information is always welcome. Enjoy.
Richard Garre, Radcliffe Motorcar Company
Richard Garre, Radcliffe Motorcar Company