Ceam ignition switch...

kare · Post by **kare** » Sun Oct 12, 2008 6:01 pm

My ignition switch does not take the key very well, so I decided to take the lock cylinder part. To my shock there is no back plate on this lock, so it cannot be packed in the normal way from the bottom (key pins, lower pins, springs and finally a lid to keep it all together.

The ceam lock must be assembled by inserting the springs first, then upper pins and finally key pins with the cylinder. Until an hour ago I thought that would be impossbile, but I managed to build a special tool to keep everything lined up when the cylinder goes in... I still want to warn you all: don't take it apart unless you have to and you have clear idea how to put back together.

I still wonder how they assembled these locks in the factory...

Best wishes, Kare

gsjohnson · Post by **gsjohnson** » Sun Oct 12, 2008 7:05 pm

kare wrote:I still want to warn you all: don't take it apart unless you have to and you have clear idea how to put back together.

Then I won't be able to work on my car at all.

Post by **330GT** » Sun Oct 12, 2008 7:18 pm

kare wrote:...but I managed to build a special tool to keep everything lined up when the cylinder goes in... Best wishes, Kare

I would be interested on a picture of the tool you built.

I ended up grinding the top of the upper spring section. That allowed me to remove the springs and upper pins. Then I could pull the cylinder and cut a key to fit (there was no key with the car). After that, I assembled everything and soldered a thin brass plate on the top to hold everything together.

kare · Post by **kare** » Mon Oct 13, 2008 1:31 am

Not very pretty, but it worked. I inserted all springs first, then placed the lock cylinder into the groove. After inserting each top pin with tweeters and a smal screw driver, I slid the lock in the groove so the blade would hold them together. When all top pins were in place, I inserted the key pins into the plug, placed it on top of the blade and slid it in. After rotating the plug 180 degrees and pulling the key - voila!

Post by **330GT** » Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:58 am

Thanks Kare,

Interesting solution.

250GT · Post by **250GT** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 8:36 am

hello KERR,

THE PROBLEM WITH THE CEAM IGNITION SWITHES OCCURE BY HEATH ,THE WAY SWITCH STARTER IS TOO LONG .
SO IF THE ENGINE DONT START DIRECTLY.YOU HAVE TO START LONG
AS NORMAL AFTER A LONG RUN
THERE IS NOT ENOUGH EATHING THE MOTORBLOCK STANDS ON RUBBERS
SO THE NEGATIV EARTHING IS NOT PERFECT
SO MAKE AN EXCTRA EARTH FROM MARELLI MT21 TO CHASIS
THE COPPER LIPS IN THE SWITCH ARE ALMOST BURNED IN. THERE IS BAD
CONTACT
I HAVE SEVERAL NEW SWITCHES BUT THE BACK SIDE HAVE OTHER CONNECTORS BUT YOU CAN TAKE THE OLD BAKELIT BACK PART AND
PLACE IT ON THE NEW SWITCH
I REMOVE ALL MY STARTER OUT OF THE CARS
AND REPLACED THEM BY THESE JAPAN HIGH SPEED STARTER
THE ORIGINALS ARE ON THE SCHELF
THIS IS MY FIRST POST. TRY TO SEND SOME FOTOS

Post by **tyang** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 9:25 am

buurman wrote:hello KERR,

THE PROBLEM WITH THE CEAM IGNITION SWITHES OCCURE BY HEATH ,THE WAY SWITCH STARTER IS TOO LONG .
SO IF THE ENGINE DONT START DIRECTLY.YOU HAVE TO START LONG
AS NORMAL AFTER A LONG RUN
THERE IS NOT ENOUGH EATHING THE MOTORBLOCK STANDS ON RUBBERS
SO THE NEGATIV EARTHING IS NOT PERFECT
SO MAKE AN EXCTRA EARTH FROM MARELLI MT21 TO CHASIS
THE COPPER LIPS IN THE SWITCH ARE ALMOST BURNED IN. THERE IS BAD
CONTACT
I HAVE SEVERAL NEW SWITCHES BUT THE BACK SIDE HAVE OTHER CONNECTORS BUT YOU CAN TAKE THE OLD BAKELIT BACK PART AND
PLACE IT ON THE NEW SWITCH
I REMOVE ALL MY STARTER OUT OF THE CARS
AND REPLACED THEM BY THESE JAPAN HIGH SPEED STARTER
THE ORIGINALS ARE ON THE SCHELF
THIS IS MY FIRST POST. TRY TO SEND SOME FOTOS

Hi Buurman,

Welcome to my website and this forum!

Could you me a big favor, and turn "Caps Lock" off when writing a message. It's hard to read all caps, and really should be used when you're SHOUTING!

If the tutorial on the top of this forum for posting pictures doesn't help let us know and we'll try to help you post pictures. I'm looking forward to seeing them.

Thanks!

Tom

250GT · Post by **250GT** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 9:33 am

Mr. Tom I am so sorry

excuse me

Cornelis buurman

Post by **tyang** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 9:46 am

Hi Cornelis,

No apology needed.

How do you like the high torque starters? I wrestle with the idea every time I see how much current drain comes from the marelli unit. When my battery gets weak, so much current goes to the starter that there isn't enough voltage to send to the coils. She fires right up the instant the starter disengages! It's the first sign that my battery is getting low.

Tom

250GT · Post by **250GT** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 10:03 am

Hallo Tom,

i drive a 250gt every day approx 4x20 km a day .
its a 56 Tdf replica
so it must be reliable
i bought them- starters -on ebay in usa
for approx.450-500 usd
the first version they offer didnot cope with the threads on the 128d
block but they made a new fix. pate without hesitation
my other 128f block haven not he same measurements they offered
this ersion the same as GTE it sperfect
but the service was great
its light save some 4-6 kilograms
runs much faster
if you have trouble to start fast. take a bottle of brake cleaningspray in you trunk a few sprays is enough- the same as start pilot-.but cheaper
it will start immidiatly.
Regards
Cornelis Buurman

www.tomyang.net

Ceam ignition switch...

Ceam ignition switch...

Re: Ceam ignition switch...

Re: Ceam ignition switch...