Wire wrapped oil/fuel line removal

[330GT]

I'm getting a bunch of parts for the coupe chrome plated and thought I would have the ends of the fuel and oil lines nickel plated at the same time.

I don't remember having any problems removing the barbed ends when I replaced the lines in the 330, but then it's been over 25 years since then and my memory hasn't gotten better with age (actually not much does except red wine and scotch).

Anyway, I went to unscrew the lines from the barbed fittings and they wouldn't budge. Further force just twisted the line apart near the fitting. I ended up applying some heat (about 10 seconds with a propane torch) on each ferrule. That was just enough so when the ferrule was turned in conjunction with the line, it unscrewed from the fitting. Sometimes the center section with the inner wire would remain attached while the outer section and ferrule came off. It took an hour or so, but finally all of the fittings were off and cleaned up.

P1010090.JPG (967.58 KiB) Viewed 13037 times

Ended up with 88 items and 16 pounds to be plated. A lot of the weight was the 4 knock offs.

[250GT]

Kerry, you don't replate the collars again , When you buy new aftermarket yellow and brown lines.
the diameter of those tubes is slightly BIGGER, the old collars don't fit.
Second, the connector of the oil pressurre line which is behind the oil pressure instrument on the dash is almost closed,
that must be so, place this again back on the instrument otherwise no correct info.
ciao
Cornelis

P:S I send drawing info to Kare P. and John V. how to do remake the tubes with the new collars.
maybe they can send foto's

[330GT]

Kerry, you don't replate the collars again, When you buy new aftermarket yellow and brown lines.
the diameter of those tubes is slightly BIGGER, the old collars don't fit.
Second, the connector of the oil pressurre line which is behind the oil pressure instrument on the dash is almost closed,
that must be so, place this again back on the instrument otherwise no correct info.
ciao
Cornelis

P:S I send drawing info to Kare P. and John V. how to do remake the tubes with the new collars.
maybe they can send foto's

I just ordered the bulk hose from Rutland. They said that the old ferrules will fit with a little work (maybe that's because they were out both the 6 and 8mm ferrules). Anyway, I'm going to try and use my old ferrules.

Thanks for the tip on the end for the gauge. I wasn't aware of that. Here's a picture showing the difference between the fittings.

[330Jim]

I would have thought the small holed tube would connect to the block not the pressure gauge. The line that feeds the pressure gauge, does it supply oil to some other part of the engine? Typically the oil line used for reading the oil pressure just goes to the gauge and therefore the line is deadheaded. If there is no flow through the line it does not matter which end you put it. It will not effect the oil pressure reading. The reason for having the small hole at the engine is because if the flexable oil line fails (I have seen it happen on other cars) the smaller hole will provide oil pressure longer before it pees all the oil on the ground. This will give you more of an opportunity to shut the engine down before it does any damage.

Cheers Jim

[tyang]

I would have thought the small holed tube would connect to the block not the pressure gauge. The line that feeds the pressure gauge, does it supply oil to some other part of the engine? Typically the oil line used for reading the oil pressure just goes to the gauge and therefore the line is deadheaded. If there is no flow through the line it does not matter which end you put it. It will not effect the oil pressure reading. The reason for having the small hole at the engine is because if the flexable oil line fails (I have seen it happen on other cars) the smaller hole will provide oil pressure longer before it pees all the oil on the ground. This will give you more of an opportunity to shut the engine down before it does any damage.

Cheers Jim

Hi Jim,

The small end definitely goes to the gauge side. I was told this when I was putting my car together from a pile of disconnected parts.

Tom

[250GT]

I would have thought the small holed tube would connect to the block not the pressure gauge. The line that feeds the pressure gauge, does it supply oil to some other part of the engine? Typically the oil line used for reading the oil pressure just goes to the gauge and therefore the line is deadheaded. If there is no flow through the line it does not matter which end you put it. It will not effect the oil pressure reading. The reason for having the small hole at the engine is because if the flexable oil line fails (I have seen it happen on other cars) the smaller hole will provide oil pressure longer before it pees all the oil on the ground. This will give you more of an opportunity to shut the engine down before it does any damage.

Cheers Jim

Hi Jim,
First I have no technical background at all, But I parted out more than 5-6 cars in the 80th and 90th,
And drive 250gt's for now 26 years..... almost daily.
they all had the narrow opening behind the oilgauge.
I think it is made to give the finger an more smooth movement( not so nerves )
not like the fuel finger!
The real pressure will be set by the pressure valve in front of the Colombo motors
The pressure in the intrument will not react so strong(fluctuation) on hard braking etc.
But I am not absolutly sure.
There are fore sure people here for the right explanation.

ciao
Cornelis

[Yale]

Cornelis,

How is it that you parted out so many cars? Building fake GTO's to race with friends? (Since no one gets my humor, that is a joke). By the way, you are a fantastic resource on this site, thanks so much for posting. Can we see some photos of your cars? When you say 250's are they all different types that have been your daily drivers or PF Coupes' or...? In heavy slow moving traffic my car, (which is often in traffic), gets quite hot, was this the case when these cars were new do you think? Thank you. Yale

[330Jim]

Seems like I am out voted here. I have not had one of these appart so I will not argue. Looking at the picture again the sealing surface on the two ends is shaped differently so they may only go together one way. I agree it will dampen the pressure gauge movements, however it will dampen them no matter which end it is installed on. All this assumes the oil line does not feed any other components, everthing changes if the oil line feeds anything else.

Ok just for fun, (yeah I know I'm not right) assuming an oil pressure of 70 psi, a 40w oil, and the oil line from the engine to the pressure gauge fails. I ran some numbers, if the small hole is 0.032 inches it would take 12 minutes to pee out 10 Qts of oil. If the large hole is 0.125 inches it would take 0.8 minutes (47 seconds) to pee out 10 qts. Now you know how often you need to check the oil pressure gauge.

Cheers Jim

[250GT]

OK, I will try to explain to make the yellow/Brown tubes correctly.
My englisch is not the best, but so what.
All the simple work wil be carry out without glu or orther stuff: DRY
the outside thread (spiraal ,spring??), must be longer than the inside thicker cupper spring/wire.
So cut out about 1 cm from the inside thick wire in the tube with a scharp cutter.
Than liftoff the outside wire a bit, an made a hook( 90 degrees )of approx with a 3-4 mm end.
this hook must be pressed from outside in the tube so you can see it comming through the inside.
if its to long you can shorten this.
Now place the collor over the end and put in the insert/connector.
the thick cupper wire must go into the grove of the insert.
now fixate the colar and turn the connector in.
by this proces the tube will be pressed/pulled in the collor for about 1-1.5 cm.
So you are loosing lenght of 3 cm in total.
Use new collars the old ones will cost to must freetime to correct, and they must be absolutely round for equel pressure
I guess Rutlands never try this Kerry!!
I lot owner complain about dripping new lines mine are absolutly closed.
But I drive so they have not the change to dryout
we use here lead substitute in the fuel.
so pump up the fuel by the fispa electric pump every 3 day ,when you car stays longer, so they cannot dry out.
that was all.
its only a hobby here.

C.

[tyang]

Seems like I am out voted here. I have not had one of these appart so I will not argue. Looking at the picture again the sealing surface on the two ends is shaped differently so they may only go together one way. I agree it will dampen the pressure gauge movements, however it will dampen them no matter which end it is installed on. All this assumes the oil line does not feed any other components, everthing changes if the oil line feeds anything else.

Ok just for fun, (yeah I know I'm not right) assuming an oil pressure of 70 psi, a 40w oil, and the oil line from the engine to the pressure gauge fails. I ran some numbers, if the small hole is 0.032 inches it would take 12 minutes to pee out 10 Qts of oil. If the large hole is 0.125 inches it would take 0.8 minutes (47 seconds) to pee out 10 qts. Now you know how often you need to check the oil pressure gauge.

Cheers Jim

The good thing is that gauge is directly over the drivers legs, so it wouldn't take long for you to notice the hot oil dripping on your knee!

Tom

[enio45]

kerry - how did it go with the new hose and old fittings? That is close to my next project!

[motob]

Rutlands is incorrect,
The new hose is much larger than the original hose. You will have a hell of a time trying to use the original ferrules on tehe new hose. However, you can use the original ferrules for the next size smaller hose. So the old 10mm ferrules will work on the new 8mm hose, and the old 8mm ferrules will work on the new 6mm hose. You will need new 10mm ferrules to fit on the new 10mm hose.
The new ferrules that Rutlands most other suppliers sell are too long. If you want them to match the original length ferrule, you will need to cut them down and have them replated. Newco is in the process of having ferrules made to the correct length.

On the oil pressure gauge hose , sometimes both fittings will have the small hole. If you need to make one, it is just a regular fitting that has the end soldered up with soft lead solder and then drilled out.

I would highly recommend the use of an anaerobic gasket sealer on the fitting before screwing it into the hose.

Brian Brown
Patrick Ottis Co.

[250GT]

Rutlands is incorrect,
The new hose is much larger than the original hose. You will have a hell of a time trying to use the original ferrules on tehe new hose. However, you can use the original ferrules for the next size smaller hose. So the old 10mm ferrules will work on the new 8mm hose, and the old 8mm ferrules will work on the new 6mm hose. You will need new 10mm ferrules to fit on the new 10mm hose.
The new ferrules that Rutlands most other suppliers sell are too long. If you want them to match the original length ferrule, you will need to cut them down and have them replated. Newco is in the process of having ferrules made to the correct length.

On the oil pressure gauge hose , sometimes both fittings will have the small hole. If you need to make one, it is just a regular fitting that has the end soldered up with soft lead solder and then drilled out.

I would highly recommend the use of an anaerobic gasket sealer on the fitting before screwing it into the hose.

Brian Brown
Patrick Ottis Co.

Thanks Brian, for conforming the troubles with collars(ferrules)
Drilling out is difficult,I put an hairneedle/pin in the lead solder ,and pull it out after cool down.
Using the sealer is IMO not neccesarry . Original tubes work all without any sealer! but it can be wrong,
It has nothing to do with the newer fuel.
I think they start to leak by NOT using the car .( dryout)

Its only a hobby here.
Maybe when I am old and grey, I will start an business like yours ,but that takes at last - I hope- 25 years.

ciao
Cornelis

[250GT]

After reading the reply of Brian twice I realize, what can be the main trouble of dripping oil/fuellines.
It all starts with the not available RIGHT collars.
He use the old 10mm for the 8mm lines etc.
This save money.
This is the mistake, I think
Those are both too a little big for the new lines,
he has to fill up the space by something else, sealer

I know Brian is THE expert and, I am not the Mister knowing every thing better!

I let my collars be made new here, they fitts like an T .even difficult to get them on, but with some vaselin it goes.
Normally the tube is onlypressed/pulled together and not in the same procudure expanded strong.
Its only a brainflash.( is that the right word ? )

C.

Post Scriptum:
Oh don,t ask what they have costs.
they were only willing to produce a least 100 of each model .
the company say it was not interesting for them!
that will be enough for the next 10 years.
my wallet was empty for a some time .

[tyang]

I agree with Brian, use sealant on the hose end. It's not worth the risk of putting everything together only to find out you have a leak. Draining a fuel tank is not fun!

Its only a brainflash.( is that the right word ? )

Brain Storm?

Tom