rebuild the mechanical fuel pump

[Rangeley]

Gentlemen, Please help. Does anyone know someone who will rebuild the mechanical fuel pump (including adding some metal to the activating arm) for my 330? I suppose I should also have the electric pump done at the same time, so who do y'all recommend? JR

[Rangeley]

Having received no reply to my query, I have sent the offending fuel pumps to The Healey Works. I also own a vintage Dodge Ramcharger. Do I now own two Italian autos?

[250GT]

Having received no reply to my query, I have sent the offending fuel pumps to The Healey Works. I also own a vintage Dodge Ramcharger. Do I now own two Italian autos?

The reason nobody react?
Most readers on this side do this by themself.
And see this as an excersice to warm up there fingers (physical Fitness).
When the springs not dissapears.
Overhaul sets are available.( SUP 150 etc)

All the best.

Cornelis

[tyang]

Having received no reply to my query, I have sent the offending fuel pumps to The Healey Works. I also own a vintage Dodge Ramcharger. Do I now own two Italian autos?

Hi John,

Cornelis is right. The rebuild parts are available. The only problem is what you're describing on the mechanical pump. Is the arm worn at the end that goes into the engine?

Tom

[250GT]

John ,
If your finger looks like the one on the fotos below everything is right.
with the new springs(overhaul set) the finger/dig? come's out a few mm more.
Mine N.O.S fuel pumps has the same" outcome".
With worming up you're fingers was a humor.
Place a foto in this thread , there are so many experts here how can make an diagnose.
When doing you re self the most important thing is to secure the horizontal axel!!!
Well I lost one in the past.
YEah,Yeah thats happens even me.

ciao
Cornelis

[Rangeley]

Well, I thank you for the replies. And, yes, I had rebuilt the mech myself, but the worn arm defeated me. Now we'll let the experts do it. Thanks again, John

[afwrench]

I might try a "lash cap" on that worn fuel pump arm . Mike

[8339]

JR, is there a phenolic block between the pump and the engine block? There should be, and typically the push rod for the pump doesn't always match the full stroke of the pump lever. You have to measure the push rod stroke with the phenolic block and gaskets in place and then measure how much stroke the pump has. You have to turn the engine by hand to find the end of the stroke. What you'll end up doing is sand the phenolic block to gain the extra stroke needed to obtain full pump actuation, just make sure you don't sand too much off. The block has to be square and true on both sides. If the block is sanded too much the pump will get too much stroke and damage the pump. Even if the pump is rebuilt somewhere else you'll still need to check the pump stroke.


Richard Garre
Radcliffe Motorcar Company

[330GT]

As Richard says, rebuilding the pump doesn't solve the pump stroke issue.

There is wear on the pump cam lobe in the oil pump, the face of the rod on the cam end, the end of the rod on the pump side and the lever arm itself. I've never seen an original length of the rod, but I know that new ones aren't available.

Richard's suggestion is the normal way to solve the problem. The phenolic block is used to isolate the fuel pump from the heat of the sump. Having it a couple of millimeters thinner doesn't make much difference. In looking at the parts book, I don't see any gaskets on the phenolic block. However, the full gasket kit I got for my 330 included gaskets, so I installed them. I really don't see any reason for a gasket as there is not oil or fuel (hopefully) in that area. If you do use gaskets, be sure and include them in your measurements.

[TOMKIZER]

John ,
When doing you re self the most important thing is to secure the horizontal axel!!!
Well I lost one in the past.
YEah,Yeah thats happens even me.

ciao
Cornelis

Like this, Cornelis?
Tom Kizer

[250GT]

John ,
When doing you re self the most important thing is to secure the horizontal axel!!!
Well I lost one in the past.
YEah,Yeah thats happens even me.

ciao
Cornelis

Like this, Cornelis?
Tom Kizer

Woderfull picture more than words can say.

C.

[Rangeley]

Thank you all. Now, Richard, about the spacer block. As mine is the original size (I see no signs of sanding, and I am only the second owner) what do I do about determining the stroke of the pump? Do I put it in a vice and press it in and measure and then put the spacer on and turn the engine over and measure? Where I sent the pump, Healey Works, they assured me the worn metal will be fixed. If so, then I will have all original specs. Vee shall zee! John

[8339]

John, you're correct, mount the pump in vise, use soft jaws if you have them. Push on the pump lever unti it stops, using a depth micrometer or a dial caliper with a depth gauge, measure the distance from the edge of the pump housing to the lever. The spring in the pump has a fair amount of tension. Then holding up the phenolic block to the engine block, turn the engine by hand until the push rod protrudes to it's longest length, it won't be much, the stroke is small. Like the pump measure the stroke from the edge of the block to the end of the push rod. The stroke from the push rod should equal the stroke of the pump, so in order to obtain that the usual method is to sand down the phenolic block. Make sure when you sand the block your using a smooth sanding block, you can use a belt sander but you have to be careful it doesn't get away from you or you take too much off. I think Kerry mentioned there are gaskets for the pump but in most cases they are not necessary, if you take too much off the block however you can add a gasket on one or both sides.

Richard Garre
Radcliffe Motorcar Company

[Rangeley]

I'm sure it will be a while until I get the pump back, but I will endeavor to do correct measurements and post. JR

[Rangeley]

Got the untouched/un-looked at mechanical pump back today. Needless to say, but I am miffed at the business I sent it to and the run around I received. But, on to the problem and my plea for help. I inspected the pump carefully and found the problem. In the bottom of the pump are two small arms acting as levers. The arms are connected together by two pins and clips. Both of the arms in my pump are cleanly broken. Who out there in Ferrari land has an old broken pump with the bottom arms still intact? Please contact me. John