The 10th new Ceam electric switch

[250GT]

To satisfy Kare,
Yes,
Marchal made on his own relays in the early 60th.
here a few examples from my trash.

C.

[250GT]

The combination of the thermosensor in the waterneck with the carbonpinsystem can be see
as a kinda/sorta prerelays system ?

C.

[250GT]

Then perhaps a dentist with a little side business. Come on C, I know with all the parts you have laying around that you know the next step is Cornelius parts improvement company and the step after that is your own little factory making better versions of all the parts you so lovingly share photos of with us.

... and then have that factory/business venture go bust due to too many car owners not willing to buy them because they're are not "just like originals" or that they're too expensive(???).

Timo,
If you will enjoy your c ar on open road some uprading as absolutly necessary IMO
to drive it reliable without continious problems.
and" new" stuff cost nothing
I use to say.

"A woman is an occasional pleasure, but a dailly driven 250Gt (cigar) is always a smoke.
free interpretation after Groucho Marx

Corneli

[Timo]

Cornelis,
I do agree with You. ALL vintage cars, including Ferraris, are most enjoyable when actually used, as originally intended, by driving and if there's a O.E. component prone to systemic failure(?), I myself don't see any harm if it's "improved" or replaced with similar (but preferably period correct), yet better functioning new item, as long as it doesn't distract overall aesthetics or vintage feel of that car. In my 30+ years of restoring cars, I have repaired, restored, reproduced and "improved" parts or their components, whether mechanical, electrical, trim or upholstery, and on many occasions with considerable financial loss, even though this has supposedly been my profession for last 20+ years. Yet, I still hope to be able to do this until the very end. Go figure ? My hat is off for Your persisting efforts to replace/repair/analyze the switch issue for close to dozen times over the years by now.
Timo

[250GT]

Cornelis,
I do agree with You. ALL vintage cars, including Ferraris, are most enjoyable when actually used, as originally intended, by driving and if there's a O.E. component prone to systemic failure(?), I myself don't see any harm if it's "improved" or replaced with similar (but preferably period correct), yet better functioning new item, as long as it doesn't distract overall aesthetics or vintage feel of that car. In my 30+ years of restoring cars, I have repaired, restored, reproduced and "improved" parts or their components, whether mechanical, electrical, trim or upholstery, and on many occasions with considerable financial loss, even though this has supposedly been my profession for last 20+ years. Yet, I still hope to be able to do this until the very end. Go figure ? My hat is off for Your persisting efforts to replace/repair/analyze the switch issue for close to dozen times over the years by now.
Timo

Timo,
the most "pronefactor" is of course the cooling system in stop and go traffic.
Especially 250GT Europa, Boano/ Ellena, and PFcoupe serie 1.
When the red control light ligthens up a new gasket can be orderd for the inside plug.
It has simply an inadeqaut radiator in combination with the childisch Fan.
Its rather easy to enlarge the cooling block in the original surround.
I only could not put back the louvre system witch can hardly been seen.
but that must be the case
So on cold days to warm up, I place simply a piece paper on the out side grill to reduce the airflow

C.

pics as usual

[Fasthound330]

Cross posted on FChat….

Is there a solid state relay replacement for the CEAM ignition relay (1967 330 GTC)? I just filed/sanded the points and cleaned the connectors on mine, but would really love to replace it with something modern.

I did a search on here, but came up empty. I may have used incorrect search terms, so sorry if this has already been answered somewhere and I missed it.

[John Vardanian]

My problems with these switches were mostly due to loose fasteners. The brass nut/bolts become loose and the blades start overheating the switch and either burn the Bakelite or end up shorting ignition. Here you can see some evidence of overheating. Each fastener from inside holds a blade and from outside holds the wire terminal. It's just too much work duty. Good luck.

john