dash lights?

GEODAVKY · Post by **GEODAVKY** » Wed Nov 30, 2011 9:27 am

I cannot get my dash lights to come on. Is there a switch? The rheostat doesn't do anything when I turn it. Are the dash lights on a fuse?

Post by **330GT** » Wed Nov 30, 2011 9:51 am

GEODAVKY wrote:I cannot get my dash lights to come on. Is there a switch? The rheostat doesn't do anything when I turn it. Are the dash lights on a fuse?

Yes. Does the green light between the turn indicators in the speedometer come on with the L switch? If so, the fuse is fine. Then the rheostat probably needs cleaning or adjusting.

GEODAVKY · Post by **GEODAVKY** » Wed Nov 30, 2011 10:21 am

The green light does come so I guess the rheostat needs cleaning. How does it come out?

Post by **tyang** » Wed Nov 30, 2011 10:38 am

Should look something like this:

Always check easiest thing first and see if the bullet connectors in the back of the switch are still connected.

Depending on which car you have, it could be a little tight back there to get it out. There's a tiny set screw in the knob that you have to loosen, then the knob unscrews. With the knob out of the way, the retaining nut has to come out. Be careful not to scratch up the chrome knurled nut.

Good luck!

Tom

Post by **330GT** » Wed Nov 30, 2011 10:55 pm

You might be able to remove the rheostat by itself, but I'll bet it will be faster to remove the tach first. Then you have a big hole right next to the rheostat. However, you might try some contact cleaner spray first. It is possible that there is just corrosion on the wires and that may help clean it up.

If you do try and remove the rheostat by itself, tie a string to it so you can pull it back through the hole easily.

Another trick I've found for tight places like under the dash is to use a small digital camera with a macro setting to take pictures where you'll never be able to see. If you can't tell what you are taking a picture of, just take a bunch moving the camera a bit in between. Hopefully one will be good, or you'll know where to position the camera for a second pass.

GEODAVKY · Post by **GEODAVKY** » Thu Dec 01, 2011 9:50 am

Thanks Tom and Kerry. Looks like a Sat job! I'll let you know how it turns out.
George

GEODAVKY · Post by **GEODAVKY** » Fri Dec 02, 2011 12:38 pm

Well the fuse was blown after all. A new fuse blew as well. I recently had another electrical problem. A group wires coming into the 8 panel box shorted out killing all circuits (it was if the battery had been disconnected) so I'm guessing the panel lights might be related.
What color fuse goes in the fuse box. There was a red one there.
Is there a diagram of the 2 fuse blocks that shows what each fuse is for?

Post by **tyang** » Fri Dec 02, 2011 3:19 pm

GEODAVKY wrote:Well the fuse was blown after all. A new fuse blew as well. I recently had another electrical problem. A group wires coming into the 8 panel box shorted out killing all circuits (it was if the battery had been disconnected) so I'm guessing the panel lights might be related.
What color fuse goes in the fuse box. There was a red one there.
Is there a diagram of the 2 fuse blocks that shows what each fuse is for?

Hi George,

DId you resolve the previous electrical problem? I would check the thick wires that go to the back of the ammeter.

I'm sure Kerry has the 330 owner's manual in some form to show the fuse panel layout.

Tom

Post by **330GT** » Fri Dec 02, 2011 11:57 pm

There is a wiring diagram for the 2HL cars that is in the back of the service manual. Since you are a registered owner, you can download the SM PDF from the registry (http://www.330gt.com/Literature/Download.htm). There is also a small color diagram designed to print on legal size paper available.

GEODAVKY · Post by **GEODAVKY** » Sat Dec 10, 2011 4:53 pm

Unplugged the 2 wires to the rheostat, taped them together and now I have bright dash lights all the time. Guess the rheostat has a short somewhere. I'll have to get into that another time. Trying to make the heater work today.

whturner · Post by **whturner** » Sat Mar 10, 2012 9:59 pm

How does one get "bright" dash lights. Even if I connect directly to the battery voltage, they are pretty dim. Higher wattage bulbs are not available, to my knowledge. I have done everything obvious, starting with by-passing the rheostat.

Cheers
Warren

GEODAVKY · Post by **GEODAVKY** » Sun Mar 11, 2012 8:55 am

whturner wrote:How does one get "bright" dash lights. Even if I connect directly to the battery voltage, they are pretty dim. Higher wattage bulbs are not available, to my knowledge. I have done everything obvious, starting with by-passing the rheostat.

Cheers
Warren

Not sure about that one. Perhaps try new bulbs.

Post by **330GT** » Sun Mar 11, 2012 8:56 am

whturner wrote:How does one get "bright" dash lights. Even if I connect directly to the battery voltage, they are pretty dim. Higher wattage bulbs are not available, to my knowledge. I have done everything obvious, starting with by-passing the rheostat.

Cheers
Warren

I put in 4 watt bulbs (A-72). See http://www.amazon.com/Eiko-48002-72-Min ... B002CYXB58. The originals are 3 watt (363). I don't drive my car much at night, but haven't had any problem with the extra heat that the 4 watt bulbs generate.

At this point, I would be looking at finding a LED replacement though. They take a lot less power, run cooler and are brighter.

Post by **tyang** » Sun Mar 11, 2012 10:23 am

330GT wrote:
whturner wrote:How does one get "bright" dash lights. Even if I connect directly to the battery voltage, they are pretty dim. Higher wattage bulbs are not available, to my knowledge. I have done everything obvious, starting with by-passing the rheostat.

Cheers
Warren
I put in 4 watt bulbs (A-72). See http://www.amazon.com/Eiko-48002-72-Min ... B002CYXB58. The originals are 3 watt (363). I don't drive my car much at night, but haven't had any problem with the extra heat that the 4 watt bulbs generate.

At this point, I would be looking at finding a LED replacement though. They take a lot less power, run cooler and are brighter.

Some LEDs are "dimmable," but I'm not sure how these work.

Tom

250GT · Post by **250GT** » Sun Mar 11, 2012 11:12 am

tyang wrote:
330GT wrote:
whturner wrote:How does one get "bright" dash lights. Even if I connect directly to the battery voltage, they are pretty dim. Higher wattage bulbs are not available, to my knowledge. I have done everything obvious, starting with by-passing the rheostat.

Cheers
Warren
I put in 4 watt bulbs (A-72). See http://www.amazon.com/Eiko-48002-72-Min ... B002CYXB58. The originals are 3 watt (363). I don't drive my car much at night, but haven't had any problem with the extra heat that the 4 watt bulbs generate.

At this point, I would be looking at finding a LED replacement though. They take a lot less power, run cooler and are brighter.
Some LEDs are "dimmable," but I'm not sure how these work.

Tom

When changing to leds Tom,
this:
I took me some time to understand that leds are" POLE-DEPENDING"!!
means it coulds happen they dont work if you put them in.
turn them 180 degrees and suddenly they work.
Well its only a hobby here.
ciao

C.

www.tomyang.net

dash lights?

dash lights?

Re: dash lights?

Re: dash lights?

Re: dash lights?

Re: dash lights?

Re: dash lights?

Re: dash lights?

Re: dash lights?

Re: dash lights?

Re: dash lights?

Re: dash lights?

Re: dash lights?

Re: dash lights?

Re: dash lights?

Re: dash lights?