Anyone know the torque specs for the axial nut (the one in the knock off hub) for a live axial car? I have been digging through all my referances but so far I have not been able to find it.
Cheers Jim
Axial Nut Torque Specification
Re: Axial Nut Torque Specification
Jim, since no one seems to answer your question I'll jump in. I'm assuming you're talking about the wheel nut (knock off) for your wheels on your 330. I am opposed to using hammers to remove or install wheel nuts on any center lock wheels. There's always the chance to miss and damage body work, if you are using a brass or steel hammer there's most likely the chance to damage the wheel nut and lastly without "torqueing" the nut to a proper tightness the nut can be either too loose or so tight that it's difficult to remove.
I found in an older Ferrari repair manual the torque spec fo the wheel nut to be 300 ft/lbs. The only way to acheive that is with a large socket made for the job, or one you make and either a 3/4 inch drive torque wrench or a 16 inch forward facing extension to your 1/2 inch torque wrench. Check out Baum tools, they have a set up. I make my own. If you think you're going to drive in any inclement weather use marine grease on the splines and especially on the tapers, the marine grease won't wash off.
By the way there is specific torque specs for all threaded fastners, the website escapes my advanced age of rememberence, sorry!
Richard Garre
Radcliffe Motorcar Co.
I found in an older Ferrari repair manual the torque spec fo the wheel nut to be 300 ft/lbs. The only way to acheive that is with a large socket made for the job, or one you make and either a 3/4 inch drive torque wrench or a 16 inch forward facing extension to your 1/2 inch torque wrench. Check out Baum tools, they have a set up. I make my own. If you think you're going to drive in any inclement weather use marine grease on the splines and especially on the tapers, the marine grease won't wash off.
By the way there is specific torque specs for all threaded fastners, the website escapes my advanced age of rememberence, sorry!
Richard Garre
Radcliffe Motorcar Co.
Re: Axial Nut Torque Specification
Richard,
Thanks for the reply. Actually I was looking for the torque specs for the nut that is inside the hub. The one that clamps the axial, hub and wheel bearing together and has the cotter pin in it.
I am familar with the torque charts you refere to, I was just wondering if there was a specific torque recommended by the factory. After digging through all the manuals I have, there does not appear to be a published torque spec. I will refer to the charts and look at some other similar applications to estimate the correct torque. Since it has the cotter pin in it, the final torque will vary depending on the alignment of the slots in the nut.
Cheers Jim
Thanks for the reply. Actually I was looking for the torque specs for the nut that is inside the hub. The one that clamps the axial, hub and wheel bearing together and has the cotter pin in it.
I am familar with the torque charts you refere to, I was just wondering if there was a specific torque recommended by the factory. After digging through all the manuals I have, there does not appear to be a published torque spec. I will refer to the charts and look at some other similar applications to estimate the correct torque. Since it has the cotter pin in it, the final torque will vary depending on the alignment of the slots in the nut.
Cheers Jim
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Re: Axial Nut Torque Specification
One thing to keep in mind is regardless of the torque, you'll need to line up the spindle hole exactly with a castle slot.
john
john
PF Coupe
Re: Axial Nut Torque Specification
Castle nuts often have a collar or a relatively thick washer that is supposed to be ground down to make a perfect alignment at correct torque.
What comes to Borranis, there is a window for the center lock torque. If not tight enough, the splines will wear out and if over-torqued, the thread will start collapsing.
What comes to Borranis, there is a window for the center lock torque. If not tight enough, the splines will wear out and if over-torqued, the thread will start collapsing.
250 GT 2+2 3197/GT