drive line noise

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tim
Posts: 306
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Location: sacramento, ca

Re: drive line noise

Post by tim » Wed Oct 16, 2013 2:18 am

Greetings... Got it and PM'd you back (hopefully)
Tim
1964 330GT 5769 -the big yellow taxi 61&66 Morgan +4's Daimler SP250 and some other dull stuff plus a brand new Mini Cooper S Clubman JCWS

whturner
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Location: Western PA
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Re: drive line noise

Post by whturner » Tue Mar 04, 2014 1:26 am

I also would be interested in a universal joint - but it would be uncouth to try to jump the queue. But if anyone has one contact me.
330 GT Series II sn 10069

SLM
Posts: 110
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 3:39 pm
Location: PA

Re: drive line noise

Post by SLM » Wed Jun 24, 2015 10:45 am

DWR46 wrote:Propshaft or rear axle. There is a "centering ball" at the rear of the propshaft to align the rubber donut. These can wear and cause the vibration. You will need machine work to resize it or maybe you can space the propshaft forward to cause the ball to run on unworn metal. Just some thoughts.

Dyke,
Yes. I found that this is causing my very annoying vibration . Upon dissassembly I found the flange is very worn. Now for the hard question-Any idea what the radial clearence should be between the "centering ball" and the inside of the Flange?

thanks,
Steve
62 250GTE S/N 3733

SLM
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Location: PA

Re: drive line noise

Post by SLM » Wed Jun 24, 2015 11:00 am

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62 250GTE S/N 3733

DWR46
Posts: 529
Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2009 8:23 pm

Re: drive line noise

Post by DWR46 » Wed Jun 24, 2015 2:31 pm

Steve: Glad you found your problem. I do not know the exact clearance specs. However, you want a "slip" fit. The two parts should slide together easily, but have no discernible clearance.

250GT
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Re: drive line noise

Post by 250GT » Wed Jun 24, 2015 5:08 pm

SLM wrote:
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Steve ,(SLM)
this is an interesting problem I would like to know how this can happen (diagnose).
that bring us further here.
I don´t drive cars with a propshaft like you'res
but had some cars with this systems 250gt OD gearboxes
mine have the sliding mechanism at the end of the 4-speed GB .
but will tomorrow make some" hypotheses " what I think this could have this happen.
its late here ,will post later

C.
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SLM
Posts: 110
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Location: PA

Re: drive line noise

Post by SLM » Thu Jun 25, 2015 1:37 pm

C,
I can tell that once in this cars life the shaft disconnected from the u joint(at the rear pinion) and the shaft was spinning sideways enough to make a hole in the sheet metal above the rear. So , I don't know if this was enough to damage the flange I pictured or it occurred from normal long term use.
Steve
62 250GTE S/N 3733

BobA
Posts: 89
Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2013 7:36 pm

Re: drive line noise

Post by BobA » Thu Jun 25, 2015 6:56 pm

In looking at the pictures of the two driveshafts, there seems to be some missing information . The slip joint makes the length adjustable which is necessary to allow the differential to move up and down on the springs. The other shaft is a fixed length. The differential does not move in an arc therefore the distance from the transmission changes and needs to have some means of adjusting for this change. I do not think the transmission end has a sliding, splined coupling. Right?
Also if the fixed length shaft is scored into the metal, it needs to be repaired. I have seen driveshafts that were nicked with a saw blade unwind in a flat spiral. Fortunately that shaft was in an enclosed guard.

250GT
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Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2008 7:41 am
Location: germany/holland

Re: drive line noise

Post by 250GT » Sun Jun 28, 2015 10:30 am

SLM wrote:C,
I can tell that once in this cars life the shaft disconnected from the u joint(at the rear pinion) and the shaft was spinning sideways enough to make a hole in the sheet metal above the rear. So , I don't know if this was enough to damage the flange I pictured or it occurred from normal long term use.
Steve
Steve ,if you look for a replacement flange be sure its the right one.
the cardanaxle war placed visa versa around 1960/1
till about 1961 the hardy disk was situated at the rearaxle
after 1961- I think -the donut came on the gearbox side .
the Flange before 1961 looks the same as the later one, but have an other groove pattern .
and will not suit on the GB shaft sew below.
second at the end the cardan shaft there should be a grease cup, this is mostly lost on most of the cars.
you can often se an grease beam on the belly pan centrifugal force press out the grease
that cardan grease part must easily be moveable by hand and not a plastic hammer.
hope this helps
C.
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SLM
Posts: 110
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Location: PA

Re: drive line noise solved

Post by SLM » Tue Oct 27, 2015 2:49 pm

Finally got the drive shaft parts from the machinist. The flange that bolts to the trans was MAP'd (machinable alloy plating) using hard sulfamate nickel. Meaning it was plated with a certain process as to add material and then the part was machined down to fit the drive shaft end socket. I figured out after trying to install the shaft with no luck trying to use a punch to guide 4 bolts through the trans flange was no very smart. A simple solution came to mind after thinking that the donuts when bought new come with the band clamp. So I figured anytime one takes the drive shaft donut out or installs one use an 8" dryer vent clamp to squeeze the donut. This way you don't mess up the threads on the 8 bolts. Installing it, I bolted the donut to the drive shaft and installed my cotter pins. Then I used the hose clamp and clamped the donut. This made putting the donut bolts in the trans flange easy since squeezing the donut made it concentric and the bolts went in straight. A few photos.. the coating you see is some lithium grease.I am happy to report the car is vibration free and a pleasure to drive.
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62 250GTE S/N 3733

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John Vardanian
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Location: San Francisco Area

Re: drive line noise

Post by John Vardanian » Wed Oct 28, 2015 12:45 am

Steve, the rubber donut is designed to take on some limited twisting force, but it's not meant to take lateral (side to side) forces. The ball stops the lateral movement of the rubber donut. It makes perfect sense that the drive shaft would whip at high rev if the ball was worn, which explains your vibration. I think the answer to your question as to how tight, I'd say as tight as possible while allowing the ball to swivel. Remember, this joint is supposed to wallow in grease anyway. If you have a flat spot on the ball it is important that you true it back to a sphere before trying to set the clearance right inside the socket. All the best.

john
PF Coupe

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treue
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Location: Oklahoma

Re: drive line noise

Post by treue » Fri Oct 30, 2015 6:24 pm

George,

I had a problem similar to yours but just the whining, no vibration (at least that I could tell from normal operation). Maybe you have TWO problems.

Anyway, the symptom of my problem was a whine related to vehicle speed, coming from the rear axle. I think it occurred whenever the car was moving but was only noticeable above 30mph. At 50 or 60 it was the loudest noise in the car. It was there with the transmission in gear or in neutral. It turned out the whine was caused by a severely worn ring-and-pinion-mostly-pinion set.
9129 Differential, Pinion Tooth, Bad 1A, 12-31-14.jpg
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The solution was to replace the ring-and-pinion set with a used-but-in-good-condition set AND (this part is crucial) to adjust-it-properly-when-installing.


Tom
Tom Treue
67 330GT 2+2, No. 9129 (former owner)

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