Cam Cover Nuts

[John Vardanian]

Are the replacement nuts that are available today (ebay, etc.) an exact match in appearance for the original nuts? I am wondering if I should have mine redone or by a new set. Thanks.

john

[Edward 96GTS]

newco products has the correct nuts and other things.

[Steve Meltzer]

Be aware that some acorn nuts on eBay and other places are really incorrect (if that matters to you). I bought mine from GT Car parts in Az, a bit more than a buck a piece. s

[John Vardanian]

Thanks.
Steve are the ones from Arizona correct? I presume you got them for your Daytona and it's the same item as the 250GT.

john

[Steve Meltzer]

I actually got them for the GTC, but I think they 're all the same. Maybe Dyke or others more knowledgeable can chime in, but they're different than the 100 I bought cheap on eBay. s

[250GT]

I actually got them for the GTC, but I think they 're all the same. Maybe Dyke or others more knowledgeable can chime in, but they're different than the 100 I bought cheap on eBay. s

Again Steve, I must correct you, I am so sorry,

Most restoshops buy at" maserati source" simply plating is much more work.

"Know-one see the difference"

But Jaques B. is not so fit on our F-cars.

I think more a Maserati-guy.

And these are as you mentioned cheap and work nevertheless fine

Steve, 3 possibilities see below only one can be the right one

John you need 6 more for you Nardi steering wheel on the back side.

ciao
C.

[Steve Meltzer]

OK, Cornelis are you saying that GT Car Parts gets them from Jaques at Maserati Source? (He's a good guy, or at least my dealings with him were excellent when I had my Ghibli...RIP, sold too early). The top picture's nuts are like the ones I bought and believe to be correct for my GTC, and Daytonas. The second photo's nuts are like the ones I bought on eBay and work fine, but, to a good eye are incorrerct, me thinks. What's the third choice? s

[tyang]

Hi All,

Here are some differences in the acorn nuts I have found.
The one on the left is more like the ones being sold and is correct for 275s, 330s, and newer engines. The center one is what I call a tall acorn nut which I have found on 250 cars. The one on the right is a stainless steel replacement, a popular product from FAF in the 70s that everyone used to replace their rusty acorn nuts.

I would be curious if the judges notice the differences when looking at these cars...

The stainless steel nuts are a real easy thing to spot, but the short and tall acorn nuts are a little harder to spot.

I have replated, and purchased new nuts. When sending out a large batch of Cad Plating, it costs about the same as buying new.

Tom

[Timo]

Hi All,

I would be curious if the judges notice the differences when looking at these cars...

Some do, some don't..., but most cars on many events seem to have too many, much more important things wrong with them anyway, so minute details like this or tool rolls don't necessarily save the day and should perhaps be last things to worry about when submitting a car for judging.

[zac]

One other thing to note is that the the original "accorn" nuts are yellow nylocks just like some of the other hardware on the cars. The replacements I have seen do not have the nylock and tend to loosen up over time. As much as these cars like to leak the nylock on the nut helps prevent a little of the weapage out of the stud. Unfortuantely when you zinc/cad plate the hardware for the car it destroys the nylon so I guess it's a catch 22.

Zac

[Edward 96GTS]

i would characterize the middle one as "flat top", as it looks like someone took a hammer and flattened the round top. the top dome is less rounded.

[John Vardanian]

Thanks everyone, I learned a lot about nuts. So, are new replacements that look like the middle one (tall hat one) available nowadays? Thanks.

john

[tyang]

Thanks everyone, I learned a lot about nuts. So, are new replacements that look like the middle one (tall hat one) available nowadays? Thanks.

john

I think the replacement looks more like the left one. The flats, where the wrench grabs is slightly shorter than the ones I've found on the 250 cars.

Tom

[tyang]

One other thing to note is that the the original "accorn" nuts are yellow nylocks just like some of the other hardware on the cars. The replacements I have seen do not have the nylock and tend to loosen up over time. As much as these cars like to leak the nylock on the nut helps prevent a little of the weapage out of the stud. Unfortuantely when you zinc/cad plate the hardware for the car it destroys the nylon so I guess it's a catch 22.

Zac

Hi Zac,

Good point. A black oxide wave washer also helps keep the acorns in place.

Tom

[DWR46]

In Tom's photo, the nut on the left is for 308 and later, the center nut is correct for 250 (from about #500?), 275, 330, 365. The nut on the right is for early cars when done in black oxide.