Door adjustment

[John Vardanian]

Is there a way to adjust the door latch to achieve the optimum shut? Thanks.

John Vardanian

[David Booth]

On which car, John?

[John Vardanian]

It is the 250 PF Coupe. Thanks.

john

[treue]

Hi John,

Love your cars. Keep up the good work!

I looked at my 67 330 2+2. It has the same latch system that I've seen on every other car that I've ever worked on, so it MIGHT be similar to the PF. The latch plate in the rear door jamb is attached with 3 phillips flat head screws that are less than half the diameter of the holes into which they fit. This slop allows a lot of room for movement of the latch plate in any direction. Close the door slowly, noting whether the door rises or falls as it latches (it will usually rise). If the door rises as it closes, loosen the latch plate screws and push the plate down a small amount, say 1/16". Retighten the screws and try the door again, noting if the door rises as it latches. Readjust as necessary until you get a good "quality" latching. Then check the horizontal position, whether the door is flush with the side of the car. Any non-flush condition can be adjusted by moving the latch plate horizontally.

All of this is predicated on the fact that the door hinge is tight and not misaligned. Over the years, all that weight hanging on the hinge can wear it and accidents can cause the structure supporting the hinge mechanisms to become distorted. In other words, you can get the latch aligned for that perfect "click" at closing, but, then the door sits 1/16-1/8 too low at the back end because of problems in the hinge area. Unless the door actually touches the treshold, though, this would be just a cosmetic consideration.

Hope this helps.

Tom Treue

[David Booth]

The coupe should be the same as my cab. The rear striker is attached to the body with a pair of large flat-head screws in a captive plate, which on my car appear to have been made out of a file blade, presumably for better grip (!). The plate is capable of considerable movement up-down and in-out, and Treue's adjustment procedure is a great recommendation. The front hinge plate screws are too rusted where they attach to the doors to tell for sure, but there may be some adjustment capability there as well. Oddly, the spot where the hinges attach to the door post appear to be attached with a chromed screw, but the plates are welded in place and not adjustable. Maybe a subsequent owner had that weld done. I dunno.

[John Vardanian]

Tom Treue and David Booth,

Thank you very much for your inputs. The PF Coupe is like David's car in that there are only two flathead Phillips screws. I loosened these two screws and attempted to slide the plate vertically. In order for the door to close properly I need to apply a light downward force on the door as I close it.

Question on the holes in the chrome plate ... are they supposed to be circular and exactly the same size as the heads of the screws, or are they supposed to be somewhat oval? Because the plate can move around a little once the screws are loosened but once the they are tightened the plate repositions itself to where it was.

Thanks for your help.

John Vardanian

[400iman]

John, just save yourself the trouble and sell me the car. I'll worry about the door adjustment.

Udo :D

[John Vardanian]

Udo,

My conscience would not allow me to sell you the car with the door the way it is.

john

[John Vardanian]

The problem is solved. It wasn't a horizontal or vertical adjustment. It was a lateral adjustment achieved by placing a thin plate under the pin plate. The pin plate had to be raised (brought out) by one millimeter.

Thanks for evryone's input.

John Vardanian

[400iman]

Good to know it will be working when you sell it to me. I don't really need a project car.

Udo

[John Vardanian]

Okay, Udo. Now it's ready for sale. Let's start the bidding at $55 ;)

john

[Art S.]

I'll bid $60