Removing knock off wheels

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Steve Meltzer
Posts: 982
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 10:31 am
Location: with Barney the Beagle boy and Enzo 8995

Re: Removing knock off wheels

Post by Steve Meltzer »

Tom, I too have experienced the need to hold that steering wheel straight, wheel chocked, but even better to have the brakes applied by an assistant.
This is the hammer I like, and it's quite unlike many others: The Muther Thumper

http://performanceunlimited.com/cobrava ... ammer.html

Mention by name when you order and I get a $25 kickback/hammer (excluding shipping and handling), which goes straight into "The Meltzer Ferrari Slush Fund" 501(c)3. steve
steve meltzer,
"I've spent all of my money on wine, a beautiful woman, and stunning cars. Then, squandered the rest."
Steve Meltzer
Posts: 982
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 10:31 am
Location: with Barney the Beagle boy and Enzo 8995

Re: Removing knock off wheels

Post by Steve Meltzer »

Just out in my pickup truck (I keep the Muther Thumper on the floor of the truck in case I ever inadvertently get caught in a flood situation, I can break out a window!) and noted that the hammer too, is made by Cook Hammer Company. s
steve meltzer,
"I've spent all of my money on wine, a beautiful woman, and stunning cars. Then, squandered the rest."
daytonaman
Posts: 24
Joined: Fri Jul 26, 2013 7:32 am

Re: Removing knock off wheels

Post by daytonaman »

Tom, I have cast many lead hammers. Ordinary lead is useless as it deforms easily. You need an alloy with antimony in it to give it some hardness. Old clip on wheel weights are perfect as they have some antimony to give them hardness.
User avatar
treue
Posts: 141
Joined: Mon Sep 16, 2002 8:49 am
Location: Oklahoma

Re: Removing knock off wheels

Post by treue »

The pictures below are of the centerlock socket system I got for 9129 when I owned the car. I bought it from SSBC, but I’m not sure they still sell it. The socket itself was made from a big (OTR tractor?) socket available from NAPA. I’m not sure what size it was and I can’t measure it since it went with 9129 to the car’s new owner. The socket has “A2905a” or “42905a” written with a marker on the top of the socket.

The centerlock socket was made by taking the commercially available ¾” drive socket and milling a T-slot in every other facet of the socket hex. I then added a copper strap that looped between adjacent T-slots and a thick leather square to line the bottom of each T-slot to protect the wings of the centerlock nuts. The copper is just hard enough to not crush but compresses just enough to turn point contact into area contact. Once the copper compressed to form the saddle contact, it stopped compressing. The leather just keeps the edge of the T-slot from scratching the chrome of the centerlock nut wings. The socket came with an extension bar, a 0-200 ft-lb torque wrench and a nifty carrying bag. I added a Proto ratchet between the extension and the socket.

The torque wrench was marked at (I believe) 180 ft-lbs which should translate to the proper 325 ft-lbs torque on the centerlock nut when used with the extension bar. I could stand on the end of the extension bar and get the centerlock nut torqued close to the required value. It took all my weight and effort to tighten the nut to the right value, using the torque wrench. The front wheels wanted to yaw even when they were on the ground, but the long lever arm kept the front wheels from moving. Using this process, the centerlock nuts were not damaged in any way. I would never use a hammer, lead or otherwise, with a socket available.
Attachments
9129 Tools, Wheel Nut Socket 1, Small Pic, 8-5-16.jpg
9129 Tools, Wheel Nut Socket 1, Small Pic, 8-5-16.jpg (72.49 KiB) Viewed 4084 times
9129 Tools, Wheel Nut Wrench System, Small Pic, 8-5-16.jpg
9129 Tools, Wheel Nut Wrench System, Small Pic, 8-5-16.jpg (88.79 KiB) Viewed 4084 times
Tom Treue
67 330GT 2+2, No. 9129 (former owner)
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