Daytona Cooling and Water Pump Rebuild

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DrewA
Posts: 86
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 10:15 am
Location: Tuscaloosa, AL

Daytona Cooling and Water Pump Rebuild

Postby DrewA » Fri Jan 12, 2018 12:08 pm

I've been noticing my coolant temperature getting warmer lately. Its 15 - 18 deg F over my oil temp. Definitely running hotter on the coolant side - not the oil side. I replaced the coolant and changed the thermostat but no to little improvement. About the same time I am having trouble getting heat into the cabin. On the Heat side, I am able to blow compressed air thru the "summer/winter main valve", the individual heater valves and thru the heat exchanger without any problems. I don't think the radiator is clogged and I believe the water temp sender is accurate (not 100% on these though).

I'm suspecting the water pump is not pushing enough coolant thru the engine and heater circuit - its not leaking.

There is a tech article on PH#140 regarding rebuilding the water pump and it does not look that bad. I suspect the hard part will be to get the front pump casing off after 45 years.

I have two questions: One, does this sound like the water pump to you folks? and ... Two, how does just cleaning up the water pump casing and replacing seals improve the flow?

Appreciate any comments.

Drew

afwrench
Posts: 381
Joined: Fri Jan 28, 2005 9:13 am
Location: upstate new york

Re: Daytona Cooling and Water Pump Rebuild

Postby afwrench » Fri Jan 12, 2018 4:32 pm

Hi Drew, I have no experience with the Daytona but I would first check that the radiator is doing its job. Feel along the entire core while the car is at operating temp and make sure there are no cold/cool spots.Good luck,Mike
72,365gtc4,14681

Steve Meltzer
Posts: 834
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 10:31 am
Location: with Barney the Beagle boy and Enzo 8995

Re: Daytona Cooling and Water Pump Rebuild

Postby Steve Meltzer » Fri Jan 12, 2018 8:28 pm

Drew, before I did the water pump, which is a mod't big project, especially after all of these years, there's a bunch of stuff I'd look at first. When you say "the oil side" are you speaking of the oil temp and the "coolant/water side" referring to the coolant temperature? Several things need to be checked 1) Get an inexpensive IR (infrared) gun and shoot some temperature readings at the thermostat housing, and, as suggested by afwrench, along the radiator. Cold spots do suggest radiator plugging. Harbor Freight sells them cheap and it will help you verify that it ain't your gauge. 2) Under what circumstances does this overheat? If it's at slow speed, that would suggest it's an air flow problem. Which begs this question: do your fans come on as they should? If not, then it's likely that the sensor at the bottom of the radiator has failed. 3) If it's hot on the road, that would suggest a radiator problem. If it gets better at high speeds, it's an air flow issue. 4) Go to your local FLAPS and get your overflow tank cap tested and make sure it hasn't failed. This is cheap and easy. 5) Failing water pumps usually leak coolant. Not always, of course, but if' it's not leaking coolant, I'd be lookin' elsewhere first. 6) If your exhaust is white, you're burning coolant and you'll only wish it was the pump. 7) A rare cause of overheating is incorrect ignition timing. Again, easy to check and you'd hate to be workin' on the wrong system only spend a bunch of time and money tryin' the "shotgun" approach. s
steve
meltzer, "“With a Ferrari, whatever it is, it’s a $1000. If that’s what it is.”"
'66 330 GTC, '72 Daytona-red, did they make any other colors?

Steve Meltzer
Posts: 834
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2004 10:31 am
Location: with Barney the Beagle boy and Enzo 8995

Re: Daytona Cooling and Water Pump Rebuild

Postby Steve Meltzer » Sat Jan 13, 2018 9:22 am

Living in Houston, even in "cold" weather, I've never fooled with the heat, so I don't even know if there's a "heater core". If there is, it would most likely be at the bulkhead on the passenger side. I'd start with the assumption that there might be two separate issues and attack from there. When the question about the coolant possibly over heating is resolved. you can go after the cabin heat, if it's still on the agenda. s
steve
meltzer, "“With a Ferrari, whatever it is, it’s a $1000. If that’s what it is.”"
'66 330 GTC, '72 Daytona-red, did they make any other colors?

DrewA
Posts: 86
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 10:15 am
Location: Tuscaloosa, AL

Re: Daytona Cooling and Water Pump Rebuild

Postby DrewA » Mon Jan 15, 2018 10:42 am

I think checking the radiator, as suggested, is a good first step. I'll report back. Thanks. Drew

DrewA
Posts: 86
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 10:15 am
Location: Tuscaloosa, AL

Re: Daytona Cooling and Water Pump Rebuild

Postby DrewA » Thu Feb 01, 2018 3:33 pm

Reporting back.

The heater cores are plugged. Can pass compressed air through them but very little coolant. Doing a power flush over a couple of days to the entire system. If that does not get it then pop the fender well and take out the heater cores for a pro to clean.

The temperature gauge appears to be reading high. Could be either the sender or gauge itself.

Will report back with results in a couple of weeks.

Drew


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