Workbench

fest · Post by **fest** » Mon Feb 09, 2004 11:13 pm

just some thoughts on Workbenches:

I did really well on mine
(as I got them when they closed my plant)
real work benches with solid wood tops

if I was going to make them from scratch
however
I would definately use a solid core DOOR
as they make a GREAT workbench top

brand new ones may be a tad expensive,
tis true,
but an old one will work OK
(if you fill the lockset holes)
and the old ones are usually more solid
and should be easy to scrounge
(especially in like NYC, for example)
or there are sometimes blems or surplus ones available cheap
(unused without lockset holes)

Post by **tyang** » Tue Feb 10, 2004 12:33 am

Hi Fest,

You're not the first person who suggested a solid core door for a counter top, and I may use one, but I have an idea I'd like to try out for this bench. I want to frame the edges with angle iron and use masonite to make up the height of the steel. This strong edge should withstand any pounding I dish out, and the masonite top can be replaced when it gets too banged up. Let's see how well my plans work out.

Tom

Chris Coios · Post by **Chris Coios** » Tue Feb 10, 2004 9:24 am

Tom,

I have used a flush solid core door, with a masonite sheet on top that can be readily replaced. The masonite is simply tacked in four corners to hold it in place. It is quick, neat, strong, and cost effective. You can order doors as short as five feet.

Chris

Tom Wilson · Post by **Tom Wilson** » Tue Feb 10, 2004 1:02 pm

I agree with using the masonite. My work bench is a 12' cabinet with a masonite top and a plug strip on the back, that I salvaged from a bank we were demolishing. I have found the masonite will take quite a pounding and makes cleanup of grease and oil a snap.

400iman · Post by **400iman** » Tue Feb 10, 2004 2:37 pm

Another thing I have seen in some woodworking magazines is to use the solid core door as an extra fold out work surface. Screw a 2x4 into the wall, then mount the door to the 2x4 by its hinges. The table can then swing out from the wall and be supported on a couple fold out 2x4 legs. Reorient the door with the doorknob hole toward the wall and it works great for routing power cords.

Udo

Post by **330GT** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 10:04 am

Hey Tom,

I see that your workbench is done. There are two things that I would add:

1. Glue/screw a yardstick onto the front. It's amazing how many times you just need to measure something and there's no tape measure handy.

2. Get a plug strip that you can screw down and mount it vertically on one of the legs. I don't care how many outlets are around, there are never enough.

Regards, Kerry

Tony M · Post by **Tony M** » Thu Mar 04, 2004 5:10 pm

One more thought on the workbench.

If you notice any instability when working on it, a piece of 1/2 plywood screwed to the rear legs and uprights will stiffen it significantly.

Tony