Alternator, Voltage Regulator Assistance Thread from FCA

horner · Post by **horner** » Fri Feb 13, 2004 12:33 pm

Below is a link, I hope, to the FCA website and a thread about a problem that we have w/ our car. Bill Badurski is the Head Tech guy for the FCA. The thread helps diagnose an electrical problem in the system. I hope that this is helpful. If you cannot access the thread, please email me and by return email I will send you the URL/link.

http://www.ferrariclubofamerica.org/fus ... readid=940

Jack Horner // jack.horner@areamktg.com

enio45 · Post by **enio45** » Sat Feb 14, 2004 5:10 pm

Thanks Jack for the lead...very interesting info here!!

Ed

horner · Post by **horner** » Tue Apr 20, 2004 10:08 am

Not sure of the accuracy of the following parts info, but came from a reliable source. While examining my electrical system problem they found the following: charging system not working properly esp at low revs or with a load such as lights, etc. Sounds like the fix is "relatively" inexpensive, and here is part of why. The resto shop said that the alternator is exact same as Jag E-Type as is the voltage regulator. Both Lucas parts. Part number on voltage regulator is 4TR. My problem is multi-level: battery cables need replacing; slide type connections at alternator need to be thoroughly cleaned regularly as they carry a heavy load, but are designed poorly; bench test alternator to see if needs diodes &/or brushes; probable replacement of voltage regulator. Hope this helps anyone out there that has charging problems.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Tue Apr 20, 2004 12:35 pm

I recently did work on the charging system of my 330 GTS. It too uses Jaguar issue Lucas alternator and voltage regulator. The diodes were shot in the alternator. This is what the guy at the rebuild shop told me: The Lucas alternators are what you would expect: weak and prone to failure. Their tendency to not work well are exacerbated by poor wiring and a battery in bad condition. As for the Lucas voltage regulator. It is solid state and, "either works or doesn't work." He recommended replacing the voltage regulator prophylactically when rebuilding the alternator. His bottom line thinking: The Lucas alternator will last longer the less it is stressed/over-taxed. And, the things that tax it are poor wiring, a battery in bad condition (i.e., use a battery maintenance charger), and a bum voltage regulator (and probably using the car electrics!).

Jim

horner · Post by **horner** » Tue Apr 20, 2004 2:30 pm

Jim, thanks for confirming (I think?) what was described to me. As soon as my car is fixed in a week or so, I will post the problem(s) and exactly how we fixed them. The Jag voltage reg is freely available on the web for prices between $41 and $47. I was told that a good shop that reworks alternators can address my diodes / brushes problem. The wiring we will attend to and replace the battery cables / connections / grounds, etc., and clean up the connections at the alternator. And I thought that having the 330 would allow me to escape the Lucas problems encountered w/ my British cars. Silly me.

Charlie_Dodge · Post by **Charlie_Dodge** » Tue Apr 20, 2004 6:57 pm

I was having issues with my alternator not charging. It is a Magneti Marelli. I looked on the Internet for a replacement and found the prices to be unrealistic. I took my old one to Eddie Witkum at North Shore Auto Electric in Danvers, MA. He has a great reputation among the vintage car garages in the area and was highly recommended by Michael at Glynn Motorsports. There was an internal mechanical failure and my diodes were shot. He Quoted a price to rebuild it that was extreemly reasonable at about 1/10 the prices on the internet. He did advise me to replace the external voltage regulator. The regulator specified for my car was a Magneti Marelli unit that i was told was difficult to find. Digging around under the the padding in back of the glove box, I was amused to find a regulator made by Ford. $4 at NAPA secured a replacement and it's been good as gold ever since.

Charlie_Dodge · Post by **Charlie_Dodge** » Fri Apr 23, 2004 12:19 am

I received a message asking for the specifice on my Ford voltage regulator. This is what I was able to dig up

The Regulator looks just like the one pictured at the bottom of the page at this link.
http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/products/vo ... ators.html

They have an online customer service form at this link
http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/Customer_se ... stomer.htm

You can email a question to sales here
sales@wellsmfgcorp.com

You can email a technical question here
technical@wellsmfgcorp.com

My car is using spade connectors on contacts “F”, “S”, and “A”. “I” is not used. There is a ground wire from the battery to the regulator housing. This uses the mounting stud. It must be grounded before the other wires are connected or you run the risk of letting the smoke out. The number 2032G12 is printed on the bottom of the unit. This will cross reference to a VR number that I can’t recall. Perhaps VR751. Ask them at Wells.

horner · Post by **horner** » Fri Apr 23, 2004 3:03 pm

Charlie, thank you for the post and the privt email w/ the info. I will p.m. you, & post to the site also, when the work is completed and what we did to finally identify the problems and resolve them. Regards, LJH

Jimmyr · Post by **Jimmyr** » Wed Aug 25, 2004 12:31 am

While a genaric electronic regulator is not difficult to adapt, there are rebuilt Marelli regulators available for those origionally fitted. Rutlands, and Maranello Parts, and GT Car Parts all stock rebulit origional Marelli red boxes. For every day use any of the mentioned subs should work well, but for concours or resale stick with an origional. Jim Riff

www.tomyang.net

Alternator, Voltage Regulator Assistance Thread from FCA

Alternator, Voltage Regulator Assistance Thread from FCA

Ford?

More info