I searched the Msg Baord but couldn't find an answer, so ...
Switched on Elec fuel pump this a.m. Light on dash gores on, but no 'click, click, click, etc.' Before I do something really dumb, is there a 'checklist' of items to review before replacing it? Is there a place on this site I missed previously discussing this topic? For example, contacts & where are they, clogged & just needs a cleaning, etc? Car still starts great and goes, but since I always check the pump I'd rather get it fixed now before I really need it.
Any help appreciated as usual. LJH
Electric Fuel Pump Packed It In?
Electric Fuel Pump Packed It In?
Jack Horner, 1966 330 GT 2+2 Series II, s/n 8325 (x-1981 Mondial 8, s/n 36213)
Jack, since the light goes on, the dash switch is working and the fuse is OK. The probably cause is worn/arc'ed contacts in the fuel pump itself. Of course I would check to make sure you have power at the pump before taking it off and apart.
I had a similar problem. Here's a picture I took at the time.
These are in the top of the electric pump (assuming it is the usual FISPA one), mounted back near the fuel tank.
In my case, just simple filing and a general cleaning fixed the problem.
And yes, it's always better to fix something before you need it.
I had a similar problem. Here's a picture I took at the time.
These are in the top of the electric pump (assuming it is the usual FISPA one), mounted back near the fuel tank.
In my case, just simple filing and a general cleaning fixed the problem.
And yes, it's always better to fix something before you need it.
Regards, Kerry
http://www.330gt.com 330 GT Registry
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http://www.330gt.com 330 GT Registry
http://www.parrotbyte.com/kbc/ferrari 250 PF Coupe 1643GT, 330 GT 2+2 8755GT, 308 GTS 23605
Hi Jack,
I think things will be a lot easier to get to once the rear section of the exhaust is removed. I know, I'm working back there by the fuel pump right now! If you're lucky, you might be able to reach back there and check to see if the electrical connection to the pump worked itself loose. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you!
Tom
I think things will be a lot easier to get to once the rear section of the exhaust is removed. I know, I'm working back there by the fuel pump right now! If you're lucky, you might be able to reach back there and check to see if the electrical connection to the pump worked itself loose. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you!
Tom
'63 330 America #5053
Ever wonder what the steel hammer is for in the tool kits, possibly to gently tap the base of the electric fuel pump to get it started in an emergency! Actually most of the problems come from two sources, first is the junk the are now adding to our gas that hardens the diaphram and causes it not to flex (pump) as well - or not at all. Second are the points in the cap. These are somewhat easy to clean on the car. Just remove the wire and the nut under it holding the cap on and with a small strip of emery cloth polish both contacts. Then slowly run a business card between them to remove any grit. There are no gaps to adjust or measure at ths point. Reassemble and test. It takes a flexible hand to do this just be patient, but it is easier on a lift.
CAUTION if you ever have to remove the pump or change the rear fuel filter, the gas tank has a habit of siphoning itself if the connections are opened on any of the fuel lines. Jim Riff
CAUTION if you ever have to remove the pump or change the rear fuel filter, the gas tank has a habit of siphoning itself if the connections are opened on any of the fuel lines. Jim Riff
Greetings... Jimmy, you've had British cars, haven't you. I learned that one on my MG TF. I replaced the Fispa cllicker pump with a Mallory rotary vane pump with built in regulator. tim
1964 330GT 5769 -the big yellow taxi 61&66 Morgan +4's Daimler SP250 Turner 950S and some other dull stuff plus a brand Mercedes C300 4matic