Posted by andre
I have 47000+ miles on my newly purchase 400i , at least that what it reads. will it be ok if I punch it once, just to get out my system, our Iam I asking for an expensive lesson.
pedal to the metal-400i
Re: pedal to the metal-400i
Posted by Tom
Hi Andre,
How can you own a Ferrari and not punch it by now?!...but seriously, before you do so, there are a few things to consider. Ferraris were designed to handle high revs. and hard driving, so on a good motor, it's certainly fine, but on an older motor that's seen some miles it's all subjective! What kind of compression does it have? When was the valve adjustment last checked. Does she smoke? Does she seem to have good power? Are there any rattles or irregular mechanical noises that make you uncomfortable? All these answers will help you decide if you can push her to the upper limits of the rev range. With older cars, I try to give myself a -500rpm rev limit just to be safe, but with a Ferrari V-12, that's still plenty of GO!
Now for the section where my attorney would ask me to put a disclaimer...
Have fun!
Tom
Hi Andre,
How can you own a Ferrari and not punch it by now?!...but seriously, before you do so, there are a few things to consider. Ferraris were designed to handle high revs. and hard driving, so on a good motor, it's certainly fine, but on an older motor that's seen some miles it's all subjective! What kind of compression does it have? When was the valve adjustment last checked. Does she smoke? Does she seem to have good power? Are there any rattles or irregular mechanical noises that make you uncomfortable? All these answers will help you decide if you can push her to the upper limits of the rev range. With older cars, I try to give myself a -500rpm rev limit just to be safe, but with a Ferrari V-12, that's still plenty of GO!
Now for the section where my attorney would ask me to put a disclaimer...
Have fun!
Tom
Re: pedal to the metal-400i
Posted by Simon Campbell
My 400 has 57,000 miles on it and, like Tom, I am happier at 5,000rpm than at 6,500rpm - I keep thinking about the rebuild costs
Seriously though, mine smokes a little out of one bank (due to a broken valve seal that I might get around to replacing next winter) and the timing chain is rattling a little (and is fully adjusted and at the tensioner's limit). Oil pressure is 70 at 3,000rpm when hot (which seems OK - what is yours?). In truth my engine shows all the signs of being a typical 50,000+ mile engine.
Still every now and again it is nice to give it a bit of a blast, especially now it has new headers and exhaust system.
Tell me what your engine is like, does it show these signs of wear? There is not much talk about these 4-cam engines so information is a bit rare.
My 400 has 57,000 miles on it and, like Tom, I am happier at 5,000rpm than at 6,500rpm - I keep thinking about the rebuild costs
Seriously though, mine smokes a little out of one bank (due to a broken valve seal that I might get around to replacing next winter) and the timing chain is rattling a little (and is fully adjusted and at the tensioner's limit). Oil pressure is 70 at 3,000rpm when hot (which seems OK - what is yours?). In truth my engine shows all the signs of being a typical 50,000+ mile engine.
Still every now and again it is nice to give it a bit of a blast, especially now it has new headers and exhaust system.
Tell me what your engine is like, does it show these signs of wear? There is not much talk about these 4-cam engines so information is a bit rare.
Re: pedal to the metal-400i
Posted by Aaron Masters
Just a couple of comments/opinions from an old engineer out of the west cost that you can certainly choose to ignore -
I just finished going through my C4 engine, it has about 1200 miles on new rings, valves and guides. After looking at lubrication system – wow – I suspect that bearing life will be quite high.
The valve train drive is another matter and a lot of “stuff” depends on the performance of the timing chain.
That chain that can no longer be adjusted would bother me, and I would have it looked at ASAP. If your valve timing is anything like that of the C4, It is quite important to keep correct. If you loose that chain or skip a tooth… the possibilities for damage include new pistons and sleeves, not to mention welding and re-machining that head(s) – $$$$$
The chain can be purchased from Rutland’s for about $200.00 and can be threaded through from the top without removing the engine. I suspect the labor/time will still be quite high – It takes me 30 minutes just to get my air cleaners off – but I think you need to take care of this.
Sorry to bother you, but I had to say something
Aaron
Just a couple of comments/opinions from an old engineer out of the west cost that you can certainly choose to ignore -
I just finished going through my C4 engine, it has about 1200 miles on new rings, valves and guides. After looking at lubrication system – wow – I suspect that bearing life will be quite high.
The valve train drive is another matter and a lot of “stuff” depends on the performance of the timing chain.
That chain that can no longer be adjusted would bother me, and I would have it looked at ASAP. If your valve timing is anything like that of the C4, It is quite important to keep correct. If you loose that chain or skip a tooth… the possibilities for damage include new pistons and sleeves, not to mention welding and re-machining that head(s) – $$$$$
The chain can be purchased from Rutland’s for about $200.00 and can be threaded through from the top without removing the engine. I suspect the labor/time will still be quite high – It takes me 30 minutes just to get my air cleaners off – but I think you need to take care of this.
Sorry to bother you, but I had to say something
Aaron
Re: pedal to the metal-400i
Posted by Dr.Ian levy
Could not agree more with Aaron.
I bought my GTC 4 in October98 & replaced the chain Jan 1999.
A split link chain from Ferrari UK was £50 sterling.($70 U.S.)
Apart from the time (but I already had the air boxes & carbs off) I think this was biggest & only bargain I have had from Ferrari parts
Could not agree more with Aaron.
I bought my GTC 4 in October98 & replaced the chain Jan 1999.
A split link chain from Ferrari UK was £50 sterling.($70 U.S.)
Apart from the time (but I already had the air boxes & carbs off) I think this was biggest & only bargain I have had from Ferrari parts
Re: pedal to the metal-400i
Posted by Dr.Ian levy
Could not agree more with Aaron.
I bought my GTC 4 in October98 & replaced the chain Jan 1999.
A split link chain from Ferrari UK was £50 sterling.($70 U.S.)
Apart from the time (but I already had the air boxes & carbs off) I think this was biggest & only bargain I have had from Ferrari parts
Could not agree more with Aaron.
I bought my GTC 4 in October98 & replaced the chain Jan 1999.
A split link chain from Ferrari UK was £50 sterling.($70 U.S.)
Apart from the time (but I already had the air boxes & carbs off) I think this was biggest & only bargain I have had from Ferrari parts
Re: pedal to the metal-400i
Posted by Tom
Simon,
You dodged a bullet before with that chain! CHANGE IT!!!
Tom
Simon,
You dodged a bullet before with that chain! CHANGE IT!!!
Tom
Re: pedal to the metal-400i
Posted by Tom
Simon,
You dodged a bullet before with that chain! CHANGE IT!!!
Tom
Simon,
You dodged a bullet before with that chain! CHANGE IT!!!
Tom
Re: pedal to the metal-400i
Posted by Simon Campbell
OK guys you convinced me
I know it needs to be done and I had guessed I could thread a new one through by linking to the old one. I was trying to confirm this and it seems that you have all indeed confirmed this.
As Tom hints, I had a narrow escape with the chain before (long story) and I don't mind taking off the carbs and cam covers, I was just trying to put it off until I decided to take the heads off ad change the valve seals.
Can anyone here tell me if the chain tensioner pad will come out through the hole where the chain tensioner is bolted to the side of the timing chest? I guess I should replace this at the same time.
OK guys you convinced me
I know it needs to be done and I had guessed I could thread a new one through by linking to the old one. I was trying to confirm this and it seems that you have all indeed confirmed this.
As Tom hints, I had a narrow escape with the chain before (long story) and I don't mind taking off the carbs and cam covers, I was just trying to put it off until I decided to take the heads off ad change the valve seals.
Can anyone here tell me if the chain tensioner pad will come out through the hole where the chain tensioner is bolted to the side of the timing chest? I guess I should replace this at the same time.
Re: pedal to the metal-400i
Posted by Simon Campbell
OK guys you convinced me
I know it needs to be done and I had guessed I could thread a new one through by linking to the old one. I was trying to confirm this and it seems that you have all indeed confirmed this.
As Tom hints, I had a narrow escape with the chain before (long story) and I don't mind taking off the carbs and cam covers, I was just trying to put it off until I decided to take the heads off ad change the valve seals.
Can anyone here tell me if the chain tensioner pad will come out through the hole where the chain tensioner is bolted to the side of the timing chest? I guess I should replace this at the same time.
OK guys you convinced me
I know it needs to be done and I had guessed I could thread a new one through by linking to the old one. I was trying to confirm this and it seems that you have all indeed confirmed this.
As Tom hints, I had a narrow escape with the chain before (long story) and I don't mind taking off the carbs and cam covers, I was just trying to put it off until I decided to take the heads off ad change the valve seals.
Can anyone here tell me if the chain tensioner pad will come out through the hole where the chain tensioner is bolted to the side of the timing chest? I guess I should replace this at the same time.
Re: pedal to the metal-400i
Posted by Simon Campbell
I should point out that this is only a very slight timing chain rattle at tickover when hot!!
I should point out that this is only a very slight timing chain rattle at tickover when hot!!
Re: pedal to the metal-400i
Posted by Simon Campbell
I should point out that this is only a very slight timing chain rattle at tickover when hot!!
I should point out that this is only a very slight timing chain rattle at tickover when hot!!
Re: pedal to the metal-400i
Posted by Aaron Masters
Simon,
I looked through my parts book for the C4 and my shop manual, and I was trying to think back to when I inserted the Chain Tensioner Foot. I believe I dropped the foot in from the top so I think it might be possible to remove from the top after removing the left side cam gear. You can probably determine this for sure once the timing chain top covers are off. As I recall the foot rotates on a bolt that goes through the timing cover and into the block. There is a bushing for the foot pivot, and I’m sure that if the foot were turned sideways, the bushing would fall out and into pump chain area where it will be difficult to retrieve.
I’ve always been curious as to how much of the shop time estimates included an extra disassembly to find a part that was dropped into a “bad place ” inadvertently.
Good luck,
Aaron
Simon,
I looked through my parts book for the C4 and my shop manual, and I was trying to think back to when I inserted the Chain Tensioner Foot. I believe I dropped the foot in from the top so I think it might be possible to remove from the top after removing the left side cam gear. You can probably determine this for sure once the timing chain top covers are off. As I recall the foot rotates on a bolt that goes through the timing cover and into the block. There is a bushing for the foot pivot, and I’m sure that if the foot were turned sideways, the bushing would fall out and into pump chain area where it will be difficult to retrieve.
I’ve always been curious as to how much of the shop time estimates included an extra disassembly to find a part that was dropped into a “bad place ” inadvertently.
Good luck,
Aaron
Re: pedal to the metal-400i
Posted by Aaron Masters
Simon,
I looked through my parts book for the C4 and my shop manual, and I was trying to think back to when I inserted the Chain Tensioner Foot. I believe I dropped the foot in from the top so I think it might be possible to remove from the top after removing the left side cam gear. You can probably determine this for sure once the timing chain top covers are off. As I recall the foot rotates on a bolt that goes through the timing cover and into the block. There is a bushing for the foot pivot, and I’m sure that if the foot were turned sideways, the bushing would fall out and into pump chain area where it will be difficult to retrieve.
I’ve always been curious as to how much of the shop time estimates included an extra disassembly to find a part that was dropped into a “bad place ” inadvertently.
Good luck,
Aaron
Simon,
I looked through my parts book for the C4 and my shop manual, and I was trying to think back to when I inserted the Chain Tensioner Foot. I believe I dropped the foot in from the top so I think it might be possible to remove from the top after removing the left side cam gear. You can probably determine this for sure once the timing chain top covers are off. As I recall the foot rotates on a bolt that goes through the timing cover and into the block. There is a bushing for the foot pivot, and I’m sure that if the foot were turned sideways, the bushing would fall out and into pump chain area where it will be difficult to retrieve.
I’ve always been curious as to how much of the shop time estimates included an extra disassembly to find a part that was dropped into a “bad place ” inadvertently.
Good luck,
Aaron
Re: pedal to the metal-400i
Posted by Aaron Masters
Simon,
I looked through my parts book for the C4 and my shop manual, and I was trying to think back to when I inserted the Chain Tensioner Foot. I believe I dropped the foot in from the top so I think it might be possible to remove from the top after removing the left side cam gear. You can probably determine this for sure once the timing chain top covers are off. As I recall the foot rotates on a bolt that goes through the timing cover and into the block. There is a bushing for the foot pivot, and I’m sure that if the foot were turned sideways, the bushing would fall out and into pump chain area where it will be difficult to retrieve.
I’ve always been curious as to how much of the shop time estimates included an extra disassembly to find a part that was dropped into a “bad place ” inadvertently.
Good luck,
Aaron
Simon,
I looked through my parts book for the C4 and my shop manual, and I was trying to think back to when I inserted the Chain Tensioner Foot. I believe I dropped the foot in from the top so I think it might be possible to remove from the top after removing the left side cam gear. You can probably determine this for sure once the timing chain top covers are off. As I recall the foot rotates on a bolt that goes through the timing cover and into the block. There is a bushing for the foot pivot, and I’m sure that if the foot were turned sideways, the bushing would fall out and into pump chain area where it will be difficult to retrieve.
I’ve always been curious as to how much of the shop time estimates included an extra disassembly to find a part that was dropped into a “bad place ” inadvertently.
Good luck,
Aaron