Carb Synching (the sequal)

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kare
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Re: Carb Synching (the sequal)

Postby kare » Fri Jun 10, 2011 6:01 pm

tyang wrote:When Francois and I test and tune a car, we try our best to get it to run right as quickly as we can understanding that most of our customers would freak from the time it sometimes takes to get a car PERFECT! The same goes for everything else on these cars from fitting trim pieces to getting the paint just right. We try our best to get things right, often not charging for the real amount if time it takes to get it right so we're happy with the results. Only a minority of people understand how many hours it takes to get things perfect, the rest can live with "pretty good!"
The process of collecting all the needed parts for my wind screen wiper system and then spending several working days getting it to work perfectly (=no clicking, no jumping, no whining, no nothing but simple whiish-whoosh - fast or slow - followed by a smooth parking routine) sure made me understand a lot of things about old cars. I still hope I could write the hours on an invoice, but wait a minute, I can always get compensated by suspending my sons pocket money till he's 23!
250 GT 2+2 3197/GT

250GT
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Re: Carb Synching (the sequal)

Postby 250GT » Sat Jun 11, 2011 4:36 am

John Vardanian wrote:... It's about the difference between GOOD and PERFECT. It's not that Sicard or Ottis cannot do as good a job as me, but the difference is that their time is worth money and mine isn't. We were asking Dyke sometime earlier about valve lash setting and how much out of roundness was acceptable. Well, the pro will check to see if the roller is healthy and he’ll set the clearance. Someone like me will take out the rocker saddle put it on dial indicator jig to measure every quadrant of the roller, then will set the clearance on an average of the four quadrants. Now at the end of the day, will all this extra work make any difference to a boulevard cruiser, of course not. But did it offer me immeasurable amusement, you bet your socks it did.

john


John, Those who sit in a glass house live dagerous.
we both have no problems to hang out to far out of the window.
you description of the roller adjustment is a very bad one. a real compromise to me
You can solve this issue by buying the solution of Roelofs.
But that cost money.
You are mixing up time with expierance.
that last thing we will all here in a relative low level.
Simply Ottis and Siccard do there whole life nothing else.
We have the luck that TY can look in the real kitchen, and may share this info
but it will take him at least 10 year to understand from 166 till 512TR
IF you wants the best Lussootor in the world you have to bring them to those above.
But expect to pay 20000 euro more -over a standard overhaul- for a perfect balance engine( balancing Rods Fly wheel etc.)
and thats possible the problem.
thats the consideration

best

C.

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John Vardanian
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Re: Carb Synching (the sequal)

Postby John Vardanian » Sat Jun 11, 2011 1:45 pm

Cornelis, I don't think you are following me here. If Ottis works on my engine, what will I do, watch TV, play golf, go fishing? Where is the fun in that? If I get the Roelofs rollers, then what happes with all the fun I would otherwise have palying with my dial indicator jig? It's about enjoying the few hours that are left of your week when work is done sucking your soul dry.

john
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Tom Wilson
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Re: Carb Synching (the sequal)

Postby Tom Wilson » Wed Jun 15, 2011 4:51 pm

Dyke has very generously agreed to let us use his Tech Tips articles at no charge. I have therefore posted them in the maintenance section of the website (http://www.Ferrari250GTE.com) and more specifically at http://www.ferrari250gte.com/resources/ ... /index.php. They are in the Carburetors section, called "Dyke Ridgley's Carburetor Adjustment Articles". Let us know how they work out!
Tom Wilson - Series III 250 GTE, SN 4247 GT
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http://www.Ferrari250GTE.com

365gtc/4
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Re: Carb Synching (the sequal)

Postby 365gtc/4 » Wed Jun 15, 2011 7:06 pm

Tom, will you be using those tips any time soon???? Hope you will. Take a sleeping bag down to Oceanside so you can move things along.
John
Failure is not an option. It comes bundled with Windows.

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Tom Wilson
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Re: Carb Synching (the sequal)

Postby Tom Wilson » Wed Jun 15, 2011 9:00 pm

Ummmmm, do the carburetors have to be attached to the engine to do the adjustment? I have added Dyke's amendments regarding DFI and DCN carburetors to the site for those who are interested.
Tom Wilson - Series III 250 GTE, SN 4247 GT
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http://www.Ferrari250GTE.com

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Tom Wilson
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Re: Carb Synching (the sequal)

Postby Tom Wilson » Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:37 am

A copy of Tech Tips is on eBay right now:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... OTORS:1123
Tom Wilson - Series III 250 GTE, SN 4247 GT
250 GTE Register
http://www.Ferrari250GTE.com

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John Vardanian
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Re: Carb Synching (the sequal)

Postby John Vardanian » Tue Aug 30, 2011 12:17 am

When I get the throttle push rods exactly perpendicular to the coupling shaft, these little bolts come so close to the bearing housings that Icannot get a good grip to the heads. Has anyone come up with a home fix? Thanks.

Dyke, I know you have an opinion on this.

john

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Steve Meltzer
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Re: Carb Synching (the sequal)

Postby Steve Meltzer » Tue Aug 30, 2011 7:26 pm

in setting Webers, all of the books and advice seem to advocate setting both the idle mix and the idle speed, on each carb, individually, with the other carbs disabled and unlinked. Is this really necessary if the throttle arms all go back to the stop position? Not trying to take a short cut, but was wondering. Also, if the in the process of setting the mix, a carb backfires, it's too lean, and if it smokes, it's too rich, correct? thanx, steve "the novice, mechanic wannabe" meltzer
steve
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'66 330 GTC, '72 Daytona-red, did they make any other colors?

DWR46
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Re: Carb Synching (the sequal)

Postby DWR46 » Tue Aug 30, 2011 7:56 pm

John: Flip the levers over so the bolt head is on the outboard side of the engine, then rotate the socket on the end of the rod 180 degrees to fit the ball on the lever. As long as everything still has clearance, you should be good to go.

DWR46
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Re: Carb Synching (the sequal)

Postby DWR46 » Tue Aug 30, 2011 8:01 pm

John: You also may have to switch the levers to different positons on the engine. In your photo, the rearmost lever should become the center lever, etc. Try swapping things around and you should be able to get everything in good shape.

DWR46
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Re: Carb Synching (the sequal)

Postby DWR46 » Tue Aug 30, 2011 8:05 pm

Steve: What you have to set individually BEFORE hooking up the linkage is to equalize the airflow through each carburetor. Once this is set for each carb, the linkage is attached per my articles and then you can fine tune idle speed and mixtures. Obviously, if the mixtures are way off, you may need to do some adjusting initially.

Steve Meltzer
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Re: Carb Synching (the sequal)

Postby Steve Meltzer » Tue Aug 30, 2011 9:59 pm

Hi Dyke and thanx for the info. Left to my own devices, I was going to follow your article and instructions from FAF, but this professional mechanic was trying to explain why it wasn't necessary. I got it and it makes sense....wanna come to Houston, hang out at 103° and slave over a hot engine? thanx again. steve
steve
meltzer, "“With a Ferrari, whatever it is, it’s a $1000. If that’s what it is.”"
'66 330 GTC, '72 Daytona-red, did they make any other colors?

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John Vardanian
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Re: Carb Synching (the sequal)

Postby John Vardanian » Wed Aug 31, 2011 12:21 am

DWR46 wrote:John: You also may have to switch the levers to different positons on the engine. In your photo, the rearmost lever should become the center lever, etc. Try swapping things around and you should be able to get everything in good shape.


Thanks Dyke, great advice. I looked at the lever closely again and found out that the through bolt is slightly off center, so for instance, if you were to slice the lever vertically in half, the two halves would not be exactly mirror image. This tells me that, as you said, if I flip the "problem" lever to the opposite side of the bearing housing I would get just enough clearance to have room for an 8mm socket and have my push rod still perfectly perpendicular. But, that is something to be done next year, as I went thru great pains to get all six venturis to suck perfectly evenly by the seemingly ridiculous (6 synch meter) setup I have posted in the first page of this thread. Going back to Steve's question and confirming what you said, all common couplers must be disconnected and each venturi need be set individually. After that-- and this is something I learned last month, and again by the aid of my ridiculous setup-- how evenly the venturis suck air the first 1000-1500 RPM’s above idle all has to do with the positioning of the levers.

john
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