330 resto advise

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enio45
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330 resto advise

Post by enio45 »

Its been a few yrs (ok 5-6) since i have taken the car apart...and my PC also got stolen with some pics of my car as i took it apart, sooo, ill be asking some questions about reassembly as i beging putting this thing back together.

First question - im ready to buttom up the rear seat area, package tray, side windows and rear glass. Should i get the back glass in first before any of the rest of the stuff goes in?

2nd question - i thought i read somewhere that there is a trick or 2 to use when installing the back glass into the window gasket - can anyone advise this process?

With these 2 items answered i think i can roll on the back section.

Appreciate the advise
Ed Montini
330 GT 2+2 Series II - 8289
58 Ellena - 0855GT - orig drivetrain
87 El Camino SS
enio45
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Post by enio45 »

TTT - any thoughts
Ed Montini
330 GT 2+2 Series II - 8289
58 Ellena - 0855GT - orig drivetrain
87 El Camino SS
John Vardanian
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Post by John Vardanian »

Hi Ed,

With regard to your first question, as far as I can tell, the one thing that goes in before the glass is the headliner and any other overhead upholstery.

Question 2, cost of error is high, especially with the rarer rear window. I wouldn't do it alone, even if I fully understood the "trick" in theory. Actually, this is one thing I would hire a pro to do.

john
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tyang
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Post by tyang »

Hi Ed,

Glass goes in last. The headliner usually wraps around the pinch weld.

Chrome strip gets laid in first before installing the window. Get strong cord to pull the gasket lip around the pinch weld, and use some lubricant. Clear window cleaner seems to work well, but I would consider what John suggests and have a pro do it.

Tom
'63 330 America #5053
enio45
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Post by enio45 »

John and Tom,

thanks for the advise - i have the headliner in, so the window and rest of the trim is next.

Tom, you mentioned installing the chrome before the glass - this surprised me as i thought the window would go in easier without the chrome - then chrome after the window install?

Ill give a local glass shop call and also see if they have experience in installing these types of glass / window seals - may be a good idea as john suggests to get a pro to install. Mine has the rear window heater so we have a few wires to deal with thru the gasket.

Ill keep you all posted and thank you for the advise.

One thing i will do, is pull the gas tank sender out of the tank while the glass is out to make sure all is well with the sender, pickup etc.
Ed Montini
330 GT 2+2 Series II - 8289
58 Ellena - 0855GT - orig drivetrain
87 El Camino SS
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tyang
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Post by tyang »

Unless someone says otherwise, I think Chrome strip goes in first. Once the pressure of the glass and window frame is exerted on the gasket, it will be near impossible to get the chrome strip inside the groove. Hammering it in will risk cracking the glass. That's how the chrome trim goes in on a Lusso, and GTE, and I doubt it changed with the 330s.

I can advise you on anything else you may need, and you're welcome on the advice! ;-)

Tom
'63 330 America #5053
David Smith
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Post by David Smith »

On the GTC the rubber is wrapped around the glass, the chrome trim is carefully fit into the groove on the rubber, the whole assembly is taped securely to keep everything from popping loose, and then the unit is fit into the opening with the string pulling the inner rubber lip over the pinch weld. A lot of silicone spray on the rubber and some firm but careful taps on the glass to get it to seat properly. Also keep fingers crossed and celebrate with a beer if it works.
1967 330 GTC #9313
enio45
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Post by enio45 »

Is the GTC a one piece window molding? I have seen those, but the GT has multiple pieces to get installed.

Kerry - where are you?
Ed Montini
330 GT 2+2 Series II - 8289
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87 El Camino SS
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330GT
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Post by 330GT »

enio45 wrote:...

Kerry - where are you?
I've only done this once on my car and that was 35 years ago. I'll recap our phone conversations of today for everyone else.

When I did mine, I installed the rubber onto the body and then stretched the rubber over the glass as I pushed it in place. Then I used KY jelly to lubricate the groove and using a rubber mallet, tapped the stainless steel trim in place, which as Ed mentioned is in 3 (rear) or 4 (front) pieces along with connecting trim pieces. I think it would be difficult to keep all of the pieces together while trying to fit it everything onto the car at once.

There is one thing I would do differently. Removal of the upper trim seemed to bend up the outer ends. I would compare the profile to how it fits with the rubber. The upper corners of the trim on both my front and rear windows don't fit flat, but sit high by about 1/8". One of these days, I'll have to remove and re-contour them so the corners sit flat.

I did have one corner split when stretching it over the glass. So I would probably try fitting the glass into the rubber and then using lubrication and a cord, fit the rubber and glass into the opening. Then install the trim.

I'll be getting a chance to try this out on the coupe, hopefully later this year. However, the chrome trim is a single piece, so a pre-install of that and the glass onto the rubber first probably makes sense for that model.
Regards, Kerry
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David Smith
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Post by David Smith »

Yes the GTC is one piece. I don't know if you could tape up the multiple parts of your moulding to hold them all in place before the glass is installed on the car. I have heard of tapping the trim in place after the glass is installed but have no first hand experience with that.
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gsjohnson
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Post by gsjohnson »

My question surrounds the removal of both glasses as my car was painted 8 years ago with the glasses in place. Now the paint edge lines at the glasses are beginning to deteriorate showing a definite and expanding paint edge line(s). I'm being told to be very careful as the glasses can and will break very easily. True? Any tricks?
GS
1965 330 GT 2+2 Interim
S/N 6997
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330GT
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Post by 330GT »

gsjohnson wrote:My question surrounds the removal of both glasses as my car was painted 8 years ago with the glasses in place. Now the paint edge lines at the glasses are beginning to deteriorate showing a definite and expanding paint edge line(s). I'm being told to be very careful as the glasses can and will break very easily. True? Any tricks?
This can probably be repaired with the glass in place. If you remove the stainless steel trim strips, the outside flange of the rubber can now be folded and pushed into the gap between the metal body and the bulk of the rubber. This leaves the painted metal exposed way under what will be covered by the rubber flange when it's all back together. Then you can do whatever you want to to fix up the paint line and just mask the rubber and window when you paint that area.

The only caveat I can think of is how hard is the rubber edge. If it doesn't want to bend and fold, then you run the risk of having part of it break off. Then it's time for new rubber.

BTW, the glass is stronger than one might think. I took my windshield off at home. When I picked it up to swing it off the car, it hit the garage door opener rail. It did chip (not crack) a piece off the edge which I had filled in by one of the glass repair places.
Regards, Kerry
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David Smith
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Post by David Smith »

Or if you are willing to replace the rubber you can cut it with a knife and then the glass should be easy to pop out. I agree the glass is stronger than you thnk. I have heard that you need to be careful storing it to prevent warping if it will be off the car for some time. Mine was off the car for almost 5 years in a rack I built to keep it upright. It did not move.
1967 330 GTC #9313
whturner
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Post by whturner »

The glass will never warp no matter how long you store it in whatever position. It can only break.

Cheers
Warren
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enio45
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Rear window installation

Post by enio45 »

I put the back window in last week with help from a friend. WE installed the window first and will do the chrome later. Here is the process I used to install the rear window - it was quite simple

We installed the rubber on the glass first, fished the 2 wires for the heater thru the gasket (made a small hole) and put some vasiline on the rubber edge that goes into the channel, and then inserted a waxed rope about 5/16 on the inside channel on the rubber with the rope ending at the bottom of the window. We placed the window in the frame and started on the bottom middle and worked the inside lip over the channel with the rope by hand to get it started. My buddy on the outside worked the outside gasket to set on the body lip by pushing the gasket down .....from there we did the whole bottom, checked for L&R positioning of the glass and then up the sides to the top.

At the top you have to be careful with the heater wires to not to rip them off, so that was a little tedious...we used some windex to help lub the rope and pull it out . At the very top it was getting tough to pull the rope out due to the seating of the glass. The corners require patience to work the gasket and moving the rope around the edge as to not ripe the rubber. I used a small hook to work the edge of the rubber.

When it was all in, we double checked the L&R of the glass and smooth over the outside lip to be uniform on the body.

That was it - 2 man job, quite easy. Next is the stainless trip , which i started and that is another story to tell. The trim is much much harder to install than the window from what i have experienced.
Ed Montini
330 GT 2+2 Series II - 8289
58 Ellena - 0855GT - orig drivetrain
87 El Camino SS
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