More Radiator Factoids

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xs10shl
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More Radiator Factoids

Post by xs10shl » Thu Nov 26, 2009 4:20 am

After reading Tom's entry on the various radiator cores, I'm reminded of some of my own radiator experiences that I thought might be helpful to share.

Radiator efficiency has much to do with the amount of surface area that the coolant runs through ("Duh!" I know, bear with me . . .). The simplest way to increase the efficiency of this part of the cooling equation is to increase the number of rows (or cores) of tubes moving the liquid from the top of the radiator to the bottom, thus increasing the surface area available for the coolant to flow through. Typically, I've found that you can squeeze a new triple core radiator (or a 3 row cross section) into the same space provided by the stock Ferrari radiator. I have done 4 radiators this way, and have not had the experience of needing any more than a triple core radiator in any of my personal cars. That said, they do make 4 core radiators which I understand work fantastically, but I've yet to find a quad-core radiator which fits between the side brackets of any Ferrari radiator I've done, which is the narrowest part of the radiator. If you really want to go with the quad-core radiator, you can still do so by having the outer 4cm be 3-core, and the inner portion be a 4-core (yes, you can mix and match widths if you'd like). Just make sure that if you do this you leave enough room on the sides of the radiator to clear the brackets on the inner wheel fenders of some cars (if present).

BUT WAIT! There's more! There is this nifty style of radiator called "dimple core" radiators, in which all of the cooling tubes are covered in dimples, which provide even more surface area, and are thus more effective cooling aids. I've found that you can order dimple core radiators in either the continuous fin or serpentine cores. (FYI, I've been told that the serpentine core radiators are more compact and effective coolers, but I've got no data to back that up).

THERE'S STILL MORE! Each continuous fin radiator can be ordered with or without tiny louvres in the fins, which when present can yet again increase the surface area of the radiator. The radiator will still appear stock.

When all that's said and done, your Ferrari may overheat anyways in heavy traffic unless you put a high velocity fan on it. I've typically had the radiator guys solder on mounting brackets for such a purpose. It's a much better solution then using the plastic mounting hardware that slots through the radiator, which can loosen and vibrate against the radiator, causing damage. It's also totally removable and reversible, which is good news for you die-hards out there! :wink: I personally use Spal fans because I've found them to be the thinnest available for the CFMs they deliver.

AND YET ANOTHER FACTOID! The radiator was invented by an Englishman named Fred Radiator in 1687, and used as a method to keep his barley stock from freezing in the wintertime.

. . . OK, I admit I made that last factoid up. But the rest is more or less accurate, based on my experiences.

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tyang
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Re: More Radiator Factoids

Post by tyang » Thu Nov 26, 2009 8:42 am

Great post Tom!

My new core has three rows, and the dimples Xs10shl described. I've been told the continuous fin cores have slightly more strength because the tubes are threaded through the fins, but like I said in my post, both types are used in cars without significant difference.

The biggest improvement to the cooling system is the addition of an electric fan. A 17 inch usually fits to the front of the radiator, but if you're working with a GTE, the Series Is and IIs have less room up front than the Series IIIs and Americas.

I NEVER use the plastic ties to secure the fan to the radiator, and Portchester Radiator don't advise it either. Four points of contact using a small portion of a cooling tube for support? No thanks. I've used a mounting kit like these (never used these people, just using their picture for reference) :
http://www.macsradiator.com/browseprodu ... ckets.HTML
They slide into the slots of flex-a-lite electric fans, and think a number of electric fans have these mounting slots. I fabricated brackets for my 330 America before I found the prefabricated brackets:
Image

The trim line series that flexilite offers seemed pretty thin, but their curved fin designs pushed more air, but were too thick to fit in some applications.

Tom
'63 330 America #5053

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TOMKIZER
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Re: More Radiator Factoids

Post by TOMKIZER » Sun Nov 29, 2009 9:35 pm

My motto: Never waste a dormant thread, especially if it's on the correct subject, therefore:

Tom, what paint did you use for your radiator? I'm picking mine up from the radiator shop tomorrow. I had a small leak and they fixed it without having to recore it. While it's out, I want to clean it up and give it a fresh coat of paint.

Tom Kizer
So many sidewalk cafés - so little time left.
1969 365 GT 2+2 S/N 12293 (Gone but not forgotten)
1967 230 SL 4-spd (Currently on CPR)

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330GT
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Re: More Radiator Factoids

Post by 330GT » Sun Nov 29, 2009 9:48 pm

Eastwood has a radiator paint supposedly designed for better heat conduction. It is both in gloss and satin finishes. I used the gloss on my 330 radiator.
Regards, Kerry
http://www.330gt.com 330 GT Registry
http://www.parrotbyte.com/kbc/ferrari 250 PF Coupe 1643GT, 330 GT 2+2 8755GT, 308 GTS 23605

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tyang
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Re: More Radiator Factoids

Post by tyang » Sun Nov 29, 2009 11:17 pm

TOMKIZER wrote:My motto: Never waste a dormant thread, especially if it's on the correct subject, therefore:

Tom, what paint did you use for your radiator? I'm picking mine up from the radiator shop tomorrow. I had a small leak and they fixed it without having to recore it. While it's out, I want to clean it up and give it a fresh coat of paint.

Tom Kizer
Semi gloss black for mine. Eastwood's underhood black gives a good finish, but like Kerry said, they also have a radiator paint in semigloss black.

Tom
'63 330 America #5053

250GT
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Re: More Radiator Factoids

Post by 250GT » Mon Nov 30, 2009 9:25 am

tyang wrote:
TOMKIZER wrote:My motto: Never waste a dormant thread, especially if it's on the correct subject, therefore:

Tom, what paint did you use for your radiator? I'm picking mine up from the radiator shop tomorrow. I had a small leak and they fixed it without having to recore it. While it's out, I want to clean it up and give it a fresh coat of paint.

Tom Kizer
Semi gloss black for mine. Eastwood's underhood black gives a good finish, but like Kerry said, they also have a radiator paint in semigloss black.

Tom
Fore all the purist,
This one was never restored.
But its from ..............1956-58 ................Boano/ Ellena.

C.
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Rudy van Daalen Wetters
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Re: More Radiator Factoids

Post by Rudy van Daalen Wetters » Fri Dec 04, 2009 1:35 am

Matt black finish on that radiator...

Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
1966 330 GT s/n 8705

Michael Bayer
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Re: More Radiator Factoids

Post by Michael Bayer » Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:52 am

My 2c additions: a bit more heat management can be obtained by reducing the antifreeze mix in the coolant from 50% to 25% and installing a lower temp thermostat say 170 degrees vice 185 which will give some head room for stop and go (but is no help in sustained idle)
Michael J. Bayer
330GT s/n 9727
365GTC4 s/n 14943
Dino Spider s/n 1193

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TOMKIZER
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Re: More Radiator Factoids

Post by TOMKIZER » Fri Dec 11, 2009 12:09 pm

I just painted my radiator and condensor with Krylon Semi-Gloss BBQ and Stove paint. It's inexpensive, available at hardware stores, good for 1200 deg. F and doesn't need primer. It covers with a light coat, goes on like a dream and it's beautiful. With all this good news, it will probably peel off the first time I fire up the car.

I think I'll try it on my S.S. exhaust system.

Tom Kizer
So many sidewalk cafés - so little time left.
1969 365 GT 2+2 S/N 12293 (Gone but not forgotten)
1967 230 SL 4-spd (Currently on CPR)

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tyang
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Re: More Radiator Factoids

Post by tyang » Fri Dec 11, 2009 3:27 pm

Michael Bayer wrote:My 2c additions: a bit more heat management can be obtained by reducing the antifreeze mix in the coolant from 50% to 25% and installing a lower temp thermostat say 170 degrees vice 185 which will give some head room for stop and go (but is no help in sustained idle)
Hi Michael,

The trip I'm going to take to Cavallino is such a compromise. It'll be 25 degrees in the North, but can easily reach 85 in South Florida.

Tom
'63 330 America #5053

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