Rusty GTE
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- Posts: 91
- Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2008 4:10 pm
- Location: Germany, Stuttgart Area
Re: Rusty GTE
I did sodablasting at my 330 and I was very satisfied with the result. Especially when there is rust and undercoat. The undercoat disappeared perfectly at my car. The sodablasted surface was perfect for rust treatment and paint.
[b]Suebian330
#8741 330 GT2+2[/b]
#8741 330 GT2+2[/b]
- Tom Wilson
- Posts: 1153
- Joined: Tue Sep 03, 2002 1:01 pm
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
- Contact:
Re: Rusty GTE
Sandblasting worked great on 4247 GT.
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Re: Rusty GTE
Hello Tom,Tom Wilson wrote:Sandblasting worked great on 4247 GT.
Not everybody who wears a Ferrari T-schirt can be called an expert.
Well at least your GTE lost some overweight !
saving money on cheap blasting means more money for the paint shop.
good luck with the project.
you´re car was still visible after treatment : a good sign
C.
Re: Rusty GTE
not a Ferrari shirt Cornelius, Tom's car lost a few pounds at the sandblaster to bad I can't say the same thing for myself:-)
1970 365 gt 2+2 13137, 1997 550 Maranello, 1969 Lamborghini Miura S, 1973 365 GTB/4 Daytona
Re: Rusty GTE
Zac, I can even read the letter SF on that shirt.zac wrote:not a Ferrari shirt Cornelius, Tom's car lost a few pounds at the sandblaster to bad I can't say the same thing for myself:-)
one of my slogans in life is without ADDICTION its not a livable live.
life without GOOD sex, food ,drinks, company etc is useless.
a long as you fitt in you're car everything should be OK
C.
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Re: Rusty GTE
Couldn't agree more, haven't found a vintage Italian car I can't fit in and drive yet so I guess the diet is working just fine.
As for the shirts, seeing as I made them and one of my good friends did the logo years ago as a tongue-in-cheek version of the Scuderia Ferrari shield. Letters actually say "DGR" which is an acronym for a family name and something my grandfather used for his business.
Back on topic, my painter likes to use a combo of chemical stripping and light sand blasting like we did on Tom's car. Have found that without media blasting of some form a small amount of rust and debris remains in the pitting of the metal and this can cause issues with the paint over time.
As for the shirts, seeing as I made them and one of my good friends did the logo years ago as a tongue-in-cheek version of the Scuderia Ferrari shield. Letters actually say "DGR" which is an acronym for a family name and something my grandfather used for his business.
Back on topic, my painter likes to use a combo of chemical stripping and light sand blasting like we did on Tom's car. Have found that without media blasting of some form a small amount of rust and debris remains in the pitting of the metal and this can cause issues with the paint over time.
1970 365 gt 2+2 13137, 1997 550 Maranello, 1969 Lamborghini Miura S, 1973 365 GTB/4 Daytona
Re: Rusty GTE
Ice-blasting was the treatment, my 2281GT got underneath and I think it was successful. Soda or Sand is a little bit too hard, I think.
Regards
Markus
´61 250GTE #2281GT ; ´80 308GT4 #15112 ; ´83 208 turbo GTB #46599 ; ´85 Mondial 3.2 #59769
Markus
´61 250GTE #2281GT ; ´80 308GT4 #15112 ; ´83 208 turbo GTB #46599 ; ´85 Mondial 3.2 #59769
Re: Rusty GTE
Besters wrote:Ice-blasting was the treatment, my 2281GT got underneath and I think it was successful. Soda or Sand is a little bit too hard, I think.
Colleague Markus,
Soda means salt , you use it everyday in you're dental office(„Natriumbicarbonat“)
If this would be too hard you're patients should be without teeths, witch opens the market for implants.
.
„Natriumbicarbonat“ reduced the surface tension without damage.
Best
C.
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Re: Rusty GTE
I know, cornelis, but You know, that enamelum is much harder than (rusty) metal.
Salt is very good using it for AirFlow - no doubt at all.
But any rusty (soft) sheet metal to treat with ? I have doubts.
The only problem is, that the Ice-Blaster only blows off the Paint and the other wrong things underneath (f.e. Teroson, Silicone, Sealer etc) the car, wich are not out of metal. To blow the rust off, you will need a salt- or Sand-Blaster. But I liked to see the rusty metal to cut it off much more, than to blast off the rust only.
Salt is very good using it for AirFlow - no doubt at all.
But any rusty (soft) sheet metal to treat with ? I have doubts.
The only problem is, that the Ice-Blaster only blows off the Paint and the other wrong things underneath (f.e. Teroson, Silicone, Sealer etc) the car, wich are not out of metal. To blow the rust off, you will need a salt- or Sand-Blaster. But I liked to see the rusty metal to cut it off much more, than to blast off the rust only.
Regards
Markus
´61 250GTE #2281GT ; ´80 308GT4 #15112 ; ´83 208 turbo GTB #46599 ; ´85 Mondial 3.2 #59769
Markus
´61 250GTE #2281GT ; ´80 308GT4 #15112 ; ´83 208 turbo GTB #46599 ; ´85 Mondial 3.2 #59769
Re: Rusty GTE
I've only heard this second hand from a painter and a media blaster that some paint manufacturers will not warrantee paint if the car was soda blasted. Even though it's water soluble, small amounts can seep into the seams and leach out under the fresh paint over time. I think there isn't a perfect way to remove paint and rust. The dry ice method sounds like a good idea, but have not tried it yet.
Tom
Tom
'63 330 America #5053
Re: Rusty GTE
Soda forms acidic compounds so if it gets trapped, it will eat its way out over time. Paint may flake of.
Sand is heavy and will heat up the metal if the pressure is too high and the blasting angle too big. As a result metal deforms easily. Small amounts are ok where needed, complete paint removal with sand can destroy the sheetmetal completely. I've seen project cars going to crusher after careless blasting.
Mine was blasted with ice and crushed glass.
The floors just don't survive. Moisture goes in the first time the car goes out and stays there. My car has been in dry storage since 1966 and the floors looked perfect but they were paper thin and rusting away along the seams. Three layers of steel with two layers of insulation. Beams were cut with a torch there are moisture trapping overlapping everywhere. It looked nice but we ended up replacing it all.
Sand is heavy and will heat up the metal if the pressure is too high and the blasting angle too big. As a result metal deforms easily. Small amounts are ok where needed, complete paint removal with sand can destroy the sheetmetal completely. I've seen project cars going to crusher after careless blasting.
Mine was blasted with ice and crushed glass.
The floors just don't survive. Moisture goes in the first time the car goes out and stays there. My car has been in dry storage since 1966 and the floors looked perfect but they were paper thin and rusting away along the seams. Three layers of steel with two layers of insulation. Beams were cut with a torch there are moisture trapping overlapping everywhere. It looked nice but we ended up replacing it all.
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- Posts: 1910
- Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 12:13 am
- Location: San Francisco Area
Re: Rusty GTE
After looking at Kare´s restoration pics.
it would interest me how his overdrive is fixated on the back side -tunnelside-
a central bolt with a big rubber puck can be seen on SWB and Lusso 4-speed gearboxes.
but no on overdrive units afaik.
those have a resting rubber in the middle and are fixated on each side left and right.
Will place some pics later to be more clear.
Here the central fix. point Kare´s pic.
ciao
C.
it would interest me how his overdrive is fixated on the back side -tunnelside-
a central bolt with a big rubber puck can be seen on SWB and Lusso 4-speed gearboxes.
but no on overdrive units afaik.
those have a resting rubber in the middle and are fixated on each side left and right.
Will place some pics later to be more clear.
Here the central fix. point Kare´s pic.
ciao
C.
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