[b]Choke usage[/b]
[b]Choke usage[/b]
I would like to ask for some opinions on choke usage for starting.
I have done a search on this topic and have come up with some info, but would appreciate some expert comments!
My usual procedure, year round:
1. Fill carbs wirth autoflux
2. Open choke about 3/4"
3. Smoothly pump accelerator 3x
4. Start engine -- it will usually catch and run on the first crank 9x out of 10 in 50 degree+ temps -- takes 2 or 3 cranks on cold mornings.
5. Let engine run for about two minutes at 1200 RPM with choke open, or until water hits 140, then close choke halfway, let run another minute, close choke completely, shut off autoflux. Car is idling steadily and fairly smoothly by now.
6. Take off in first when water needle gets past 140 mark, don't exceed 2500 -- 3000 rpm until water is at 190 and oil temp is off the peg.
7. Car is running at its best, idle perfectly smooth at 800 RPM when oil temp needle is straight up and water temp is at around 190. I have an auxiliary fan that comes on at 193 deg. so car never overheats.
I've been given varying opinions on choke usage. Some say don't use it at all, but the owners manual says use it. My current mechanic says the procedure I've described is fine.
I have done a search on this topic and have come up with some info, but would appreciate some expert comments!
My usual procedure, year round:
1. Fill carbs wirth autoflux
2. Open choke about 3/4"
3. Smoothly pump accelerator 3x
4. Start engine -- it will usually catch and run on the first crank 9x out of 10 in 50 degree+ temps -- takes 2 or 3 cranks on cold mornings.
5. Let engine run for about two minutes at 1200 RPM with choke open, or until water hits 140, then close choke halfway, let run another minute, close choke completely, shut off autoflux. Car is idling steadily and fairly smoothly by now.
6. Take off in first when water needle gets past 140 mark, don't exceed 2500 -- 3000 rpm until water is at 190 and oil temp is off the peg.
7. Car is running at its best, idle perfectly smooth at 800 RPM when oil temp needle is straight up and water temp is at around 190. I have an auxiliary fan that comes on at 193 deg. so car never overheats.
I've been given varying opinions on choke usage. Some say don't use it at all, but the owners manual says use it. My current mechanic says the procedure I've described is fine.
Current: 1983 308 GTS
R.I.P: 330 2+2 s/n 5409
R.I.P: 330 2+2 s/n 5409
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- Posts: 58
- Joined: Mon Sep 02, 2002 10:49 pm
- Location: Valparaiso, IN
On both the 250 and 330 engines I have always used the choke to start the car. I leave the choke on for high idle for awhile before I take off. I think the reason some people advise against using the choke is in case it does not shut off completely when you close the lever. You don't want a gassier mixture. If the choke is working properly and it works for you, use it.
1967 330 GTC #9313
When I first asked Francois when and how I should use the choke, he said if he ever caught me using the choke on my car, he would cut the cable! I think this extreme reaction is due to the number of customers that bring their cars in for servicing with partially closed chokes and misadjusted linkages. The three choke linkages can go out of adjustment and stay closed very easily, so I can understand his frustration.
I have yet to start my car in very cold weather, but I have had luck feathering the throttle (1500-2000) without the choke closed until everything warmed up enough to keep the engine idling.
The rest of blucat49's proceedure sounds about right.
Tom
I have yet to start my car in very cold weather, but I have had luck feathering the throttle (1500-2000) without the choke closed until everything warmed up enough to keep the engine idling.
The rest of blucat49's proceedure sounds about right.
Tom
'63 330 America #5053
I appreciate the replies -- they are very reassuring.
I have to be careful when closing my choke because it will hang up about 1/4" open and it takes a little extra twist to close it completely. That 1/4" does make a difference. My mechanic adjusted the throttle linkage and carbs very precisely several months ago and all seems fine there, but I will keep Tom's advice in mind and have him check the choke mechanism routinely from here on.
As long as no harm is done from keeping the choke open for two or three minutes, I would rather do that than poke the throttle to keep the revs up until it settles into a steady idle.
I've learned that a vintage era Ferrari has to be driven easily for at least fifteen minutes to allow everything to warm up, even in summer.
I have to be careful when closing my choke because it will hang up about 1/4" open and it takes a little extra twist to close it completely. That 1/4" does make a difference. My mechanic adjusted the throttle linkage and carbs very precisely several months ago and all seems fine there, but I will keep Tom's advice in mind and have him check the choke mechanism routinely from here on.
As long as no harm is done from keeping the choke open for two or three minutes, I would rather do that than poke the throttle to keep the revs up until it settles into a steady idle.
I've learned that a vintage era Ferrari has to be driven easily for at least fifteen minutes to allow everything to warm up, even in summer.
Current: 1983 308 GTS
R.I.P: 330 2+2 s/n 5409
R.I.P: 330 2+2 s/n 5409
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- Posts: 2
- Joined: Thu Sep 12, 2002 5:20 pm
- Location: Oakland, CA
Autoflux is the electric fuel pump, marked by an A on the switch.
Regards, Kerry
http://www.330gt.com 330 GT Registry
http://www.parrotbyte.com/kbc/ferrari 250 PF Coupe 1643GT, 330 GT 2+2 8755GT, 308 GTS 23605
http://www.330gt.com 330 GT Registry
http://www.parrotbyte.com/kbc/ferrari 250 PF Coupe 1643GT, 330 GT 2+2 8755GT, 308 GTS 23605
My 275GTB/4 does not have a choke or even a place for them on the carb tops. It still starts fine (Arizona) all the time. In cold Chicago I used the choke as described on my Lusso without a problem. One tip is to keep the choke cable lubed well so it returns completely. I use the motorcycle dry lube in the pressurized applicator. Jim Riff
Dryslide, and many others of similar make up are sold at most motorcycle shops. The bikers do not like oil residue picking up dirt. Note, these "cable lubes" have a unique applicator for control cables. A small clamp fitting that grasps and seals the cable end while the pressure in the can forces the lube into the cable without making a mess. Jim Riff
That might also loosen up my heater control cable, which I was going to replace. I will get some and post results.Jimmyr wrote:Dryslide, and many others of similar make up are sold at most motorcycle shops. The bikers do not like oil residue picking up dirt. Note, these "cable lubes" have a unique applicator for control cables. A small clamp fitting that grasps and seals the cable end while the pressure in the can forces the lube into the cable without making a mess. Jim Riff
Thanks!
Current: 1983 308 GTS
R.I.P: 330 2+2 s/n 5409
R.I.P: 330 2+2 s/n 5409
Yale;Yale wrote:Sorry Blue, nothing is going to make that heater control situation better for anything other then a week or maybe a day or so. Designed to not work correctly. Yale
I'm secretly afraid you're right. I'm in for either a hundred bucks labor plus part for the shop to replace it or an afternoon of bad language plus the part if I do it. I have tried WD 40, etc and it worked for a couple of days then froze again. The valve itself works fine. The cycle lube is worth
a try.
Current: 1983 308 GTS
R.I.P: 330 2+2 s/n 5409
R.I.P: 330 2+2 s/n 5409
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- Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2004 5:53 pm
I replaced my heater cable and vent cables with a new cable from a NAPA store. The new cable has some sort of self lubricating inner sheath that really makes operation of these controls effortless. It used to take two hands just trying to get the heater valve open. I wanted to save it and make it work but could not get it work any smoother. The effort in replacing the cable made it worthwhile in the long run.
Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001