365 GT 2 + 2 restoration
Brake pads
You do NOT need to go through a Ferrari place, etc. to purchase brake pads.
Just remove your pads and take them to a brake shop. They will be able to match the pad backing plate with the millions of different designs.
If you need to keep using your Ferrari, then trace around the backing plate on to a piece of cardboard and take the picture in.
Brake pads are brake pads ... once you get the right backing plate then you can order whatever compound you like, from soft to full race, etc.
Even concourse judges will not know the difference!
Pete
Just remove your pads and take them to a brake shop. They will be able to match the pad backing plate with the millions of different designs.
If you need to keep using your Ferrari, then trace around the backing plate on to a piece of cardboard and take the picture in.
Brake pads are brake pads ... once you get the right backing plate then you can order whatever compound you like, from soft to full race, etc.
Even concourse judges will not know the difference!
Pete
Good idea, but we do want to have a 'spare' set around the place if possible. I got some pad dimensions out of a copy of "Ferrari Tuning Tips" (thanks Hugh) which will help on that score. I guess I'll start asking around brake places here too. I don't know who does it in this part of the world, but there must be someone...A slightly less 'dusty' compound would be good from a wheel cleaning perspective, but I guess stopping ability is the main criteria!
Kelly La Velle & Andrew Stevens
an update:
the carbs are with mike pierce-he had a look at them and couldnt believe that the car was working at all with the carbs in the condition that they were in.
have decided to hold off on the clutch repair until i get the carbs back and on the engine-will take it slowly and one at a time especially after reading your posts as to how complex a job changing the clutch is.
the last thing i want is a fantastic car sitting around in bits n pcs in my garage
i am now waiting to hear from mike pierce as to how much it will cost and how long it will take to get the carbs looking and working like brand new again.
will keep all of you posted on the developments
best
a.d.
the carbs are with mike pierce-he had a look at them and couldnt believe that the car was working at all with the carbs in the condition that they were in.
have decided to hold off on the clutch repair until i get the carbs back and on the engine-will take it slowly and one at a time especially after reading your posts as to how complex a job changing the clutch is.
the last thing i want is a fantastic car sitting around in bits n pcs in my garage
i am now waiting to hear from mike pierce as to how much it will cost and how long it will take to get the carbs looking and working like brand new again.
will keep all of you posted on the developments
best
a.d.
A.D.
GT 365 2 + 2
S NR 12171
GT 365 2 + 2
S NR 12171
A.D.
I hate to come across as one to spoil the anticipated fun, but...
...as an restoration professional, I'd like to caution You to think, that most other areas and/or components of Your car, whether it's engine, trans., brakes, suspension, etc..., may possibly share the same fate of deterioration, as found in the carbs. This line of cautious thinking, in the eventual approach to initial starting/operating of Your car, may reduce the possibility of further and/or more devastating problems.
I hate to come across as one to spoil the anticipated fun, but...
couldnt believe that the car was working at all with the carbs in the condition that they were in.
...as an restoration professional, I'd like to caution You to think, that most other areas and/or components of Your car, whether it's engine, trans., brakes, suspension, etc..., may possibly share the same fate of deterioration, as found in the carbs. This line of cautious thinking, in the eventual approach to initial starting/operating of Your car, may reduce the possibility of further and/or more devastating problems.
Timo
Just to hark back to brake pads for a minute (sorry to drag this thread to a stop :) ) I think that A.D better look elsewhere for front pads. I checked out the buybrakes.com website and the vehicles they list as using the same front pads as the 365GT have quite different pads. I happen to have manuals for other vehicles in the shop here such as E-Types and XJ6s amongst others and they all use Dunlop calipers, not Girling and the 330GTC uses ATE ones, so keep looking! We've been told by a guy at Eurospares in the UK that they now have the proper ones for us, so we will see how that goes.
I'm about to get my 1750GTV back from the paint shop Tom! When you visited us it had been there about 3 months. Now 20 months later it's nearly ready for me to start the reassembly process. The bad news is that the Elise is now in another paint shop due to a man in a Toyota LandCrusher deciding to reverse at a road junction rather than taking the regular option of proceeding through it as he was indicating to do!! "Sorry mate" he said.."I didn't see your little car there"!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was VERY polite to him after I had said some rude words. Kelly was not very happy when she found out either! At least it wasn't the 365 that got hit...
(I'd post up a photo, but I'm not sure how - might send it through to Tom)
Andrew Stevens
I'm about to get my 1750GTV back from the paint shop Tom! When you visited us it had been there about 3 months. Now 20 months later it's nearly ready for me to start the reassembly process. The bad news is that the Elise is now in another paint shop due to a man in a Toyota LandCrusher deciding to reverse at a road junction rather than taking the regular option of proceeding through it as he was indicating to do!! "Sorry mate" he said.."I didn't see your little car there"!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was VERY polite to him after I had said some rude words. Kelly was not very happy when she found out either! At least it wasn't the 365 that got hit...
(I'd post up a photo, but I'm not sure how - might send it through to Tom)
Andrew Stevens
Kelly La Velle & Andrew Stevens
Many of you have asked me to post photographs of the car.
After seeing the cars that have been restored by Zac, and some of the other beauties that some of you own i am afraid if you see the condition of the car you may stop advising me on how to restore and instead suggest i sell it.
thats why i am not posting the photographs yet........
After seeing the cars that have been restored by Zac, and some of the other beauties that some of you own i am afraid if you see the condition of the car you may stop advising me on how to restore and instead suggest i sell it.
thats why i am not posting the photographs yet........
A.D.
GT 365 2 + 2
S NR 12171
GT 365 2 + 2
S NR 12171
Hi A.D.,
Tom
Don't be silly! I have a Sunbeam Alpine that has original paint and the usual fender rust. Years ago, I took it to a car show and had more people looking at it than the shiny new cars parked next to it! It's the variety that interesting, and the potential of what your car can be that we want to see. Post away!Many of you have asked me to post photographs of the car.
After seeing the cars that have been restored by Zac, and some of the other beauties that some of you own i am afraid if you see the condition of the car you may stop advising me on how to restore and instead suggest i sell it.
thats why i am not posting the photographs yet........
Tom
'63 330 America #5053
Brake Pads/Calipers
klv wrote:Just to hark back to brake pads for a minute (sorry to drag this thread to a stop :) ) I think that A.D better look elsewhere for front pads. I checked out the buybrakes.com website and the vehicles they list as using the same front pads as the 365GT have quite different pads. I happen to have manuals for other vehicles in the shop here such as E-Types and XJ6s amongst others and they all use Dunlop calipers, not Girling and the 330GTC uses ATE ones, so keep looking! We've been told by a guy at Eurospares in the UK that they now have the proper ones for us, so we will see how that goes.
I'm about to get my 1750GTV back from the paint shop Tom! When you visited us it had been there about 3 months. Now 20 months later it's nearly ready for me to start the reassembly process. The bad news is that the Elise is now in another paint shop due to a man in a Toyota LandCrusher deciding to reverse at a road junction rather than taking the regular option of proceeding through it as he was indicating to do!! "Sorry mate" he said.."I didn't see your little car there"!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was VERY polite to him after I had said some rude words. Kelly was not very happy when she found out either! At least it wasn't the 365 that got hit...
(I'd post up a photo, but I'm not sure how - might send it through to Tom)
Andrew Stevens
Didn't Dunlop acquire Girling - or the other way around? If so,some of the brake parts are the same regardless of the name.
Cheers
Warren
330 GT Series II sn 10069
Dont be afraid to show us your progress . You are doing the automotive world a service by preserving one of these fine cars. It need not be perfect just do your best and get her up and running. Once you are on the road you will not regret your decision to enter the Ferarri world. Mike
72,365gtc4,14681,2007 599 GTB
An Update.
I have heard back from Mike at Pierce manifolds:
quote:
We have finished reviewing your 40 DFI Weber carbs, in summary these carbs
are in bad shape....
Bodies are warped and twisted
Fuel banjo threads stripped
Gear drives not in adjustment
Pump passages plugged
Two idle circuits non functioning
Many small problems (too many to list)
unquote
he has promised to get them working and looking like new again-i have approved the cost, as well as the time estimate of six weeks approx for getting this done.
Now the next question is-what should i get done to the car while i am waiting for the carbs to come back?
best
a.d.
I have heard back from Mike at Pierce manifolds:
quote:
We have finished reviewing your 40 DFI Weber carbs, in summary these carbs
are in bad shape....
Bodies are warped and twisted
Fuel banjo threads stripped
Gear drives not in adjustment
Pump passages plugged
Two idle circuits non functioning
Many small problems (too many to list)
unquote
he has promised to get them working and looking like new again-i have approved the cost, as well as the time estimate of six weeks approx for getting this done.
Now the next question is-what should i get done to the car while i am waiting for the carbs to come back?
best
a.d.
A.D.
GT 365 2 + 2
S NR 12171
GT 365 2 + 2
S NR 12171
Hi A.D.,
I'd check your ignition system. Pull your plugs, and take notes on the color and shape of each one in relation to the cylinder. This will give you clues to how the engine recovers from her long sleep. Replace the plugs if they are dirty or fouled, and start fresh. In the future, after running the car for a few thousand miles, you can check them again to see if anything changed. Some may look better because of the rebuilt carbs.
Check, file, and adjust the point gap on the distributors like I recently did with the 365 I was working on. It's easy to pull the distributors, just mark the body of the distributor in relation to the 90 degree angle drive, and mark which way the rotor is pointed under the distributor cap.
Once you pull the distributors, uncrew the three bevel head screws that hold the frame that holds the top bearing in place. Use penetrating oil, and be very careful not to strip these flat head screws. You may need a small puller to pull this frame out. You can try to leave the frame in place, if you're just adjusting the points, but I would recommend you remove it to pull the point set out of the distributors to take a look at the advance mechanisms under the point plates. Once you remove the point plates, you'll have some access to the advance weights and pivots. Try to get some grease down inside this area, as I'm sure it's all gummed up in there. The only other option is to disassemble, clean, and regrease the whole thing, but I'm trying not to get you to take EVERYTHING apart!
When you have the points reinstalled, cleaned and ready to gap, remember that the top plate needs to be in place so the bearing can locate the distributor shaft. I set the gap at .014 inches.
Have fun!
Tom
P.S. Another thought is to go through your fuel system. There is no sense in spending a lot of $$$ to have the carbs get all clogged from trash in the lines. New filters are the very least you should do. And then there's the gastank...
I'd check your ignition system. Pull your plugs, and take notes on the color and shape of each one in relation to the cylinder. This will give you clues to how the engine recovers from her long sleep. Replace the plugs if they are dirty or fouled, and start fresh. In the future, after running the car for a few thousand miles, you can check them again to see if anything changed. Some may look better because of the rebuilt carbs.
Check, file, and adjust the point gap on the distributors like I recently did with the 365 I was working on. It's easy to pull the distributors, just mark the body of the distributor in relation to the 90 degree angle drive, and mark which way the rotor is pointed under the distributor cap.
Once you pull the distributors, uncrew the three bevel head screws that hold the frame that holds the top bearing in place. Use penetrating oil, and be very careful not to strip these flat head screws. You may need a small puller to pull this frame out. You can try to leave the frame in place, if you're just adjusting the points, but I would recommend you remove it to pull the point set out of the distributors to take a look at the advance mechanisms under the point plates. Once you remove the point plates, you'll have some access to the advance weights and pivots. Try to get some grease down inside this area, as I'm sure it's all gummed up in there. The only other option is to disassemble, clean, and regrease the whole thing, but I'm trying not to get you to take EVERYTHING apart!
When you have the points reinstalled, cleaned and ready to gap, remember that the top plate needs to be in place so the bearing can locate the distributor shaft. I set the gap at .014 inches.
Have fun!
Tom
P.S. Another thought is to go through your fuel system. There is no sense in spending a lot of $$$ to have the carbs get all clogged from trash in the lines. New filters are the very least you should do. And then there's the gastank...
'63 330 America #5053
-
- Posts: 1206
- Joined: Thu Jan 22, 2004 5:53 pm
A.D.
If you are going to check out the distributors, make sure and check for play in the bearings that hold the distributor shaft. The top, smaller bearing, wears out faster and there can be a lot of play at the top end. Mine were so worn that I cold physically change the point gap by wiggling the top of the shaft from side to side. I ended up dismantling both distributors completely and replacing the upper and lower bearings. Should you have to replace the upper bearing, be careful that the replacement is the exact same height as the original. My first order of upper bearings were slightly taller than the originals and the web plate did not fit flush to the top of the distributor core.
Good luck,
Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
1966 330 GT s/n 8705
If you are going to check out the distributors, make sure and check for play in the bearings that hold the distributor shaft. The top, smaller bearing, wears out faster and there can be a lot of play at the top end. Mine were so worn that I cold physically change the point gap by wiggling the top of the shaft from side to side. I ended up dismantling both distributors completely and replacing the upper and lower bearings. Should you have to replace the upper bearing, be careful that the replacement is the exact same height as the original. My first order of upper bearings were slightly taller than the originals and the web plate did not fit flush to the top of the distributor core.
Good luck,
Rudy van Daalen Wetters
1963 GTE s/n 4001
1966 330 GT s/n 8705
Good luck with the project A.D.! At least the paintwork on your car looks a little more presentable than ours...
I have a query on the indicator/light switch on the 365GT. Ours has been
'patched' in the past, but the main light switch is looking increasingly fragile. Have people just 'rebuilt' them previously or are they changeable for something else or do they come from another equivalent model. Also, I hope there isn't a difference between left & right hand drive versions! Any hints would be appreciated...
Cheers
Andrew Stevens
I have a query on the indicator/light switch on the 365GT. Ours has been
'patched' in the past, but the main light switch is looking increasingly fragile. Have people just 'rebuilt' them previously or are they changeable for something else or do they come from another equivalent model. Also, I hope there isn't a difference between left & right hand drive versions! Any hints would be appreciated...
Cheers
Andrew Stevens
Kelly La Velle & Andrew Stevens