I got a SI 330GT back at the shop after a couple years of body work and paint.

The car was purchased a few years ago by the owner who wanted a 300GT painted to match his modern GTC/4 Lusso.

After purchasing the car, he sent it to me for disassembly and paint.

Unfortunately, after the paint and layers of filler was removed, we found a common problem of bad and cheap body work. Previous accident damage was covered up with body filler instead of being properly repaired.

Even the places where the previous shop welded in metal, the repairs were horrible. The decision was made to fix this car right before we sent the car in for a color change, but that took some time. It’s now done, and I’m now on the final push to get the car assembled and onto the interior!

Initially, I had the paint shop agree to reassemble the car, but I soon realized they were in over their heads. They had originally disassembled the car for paint, but reassembling it takes a lot more attention to details. I had the paint shop do the easy work like reinstall the headlights, tail lights, and windshields, but had them return the car to me for the more complicated stuff. These areas needed special attention like replacing the window felts, installing stainless trim pieces, and getting the side windows installed.

Unlike the 330GTC that I recently did, the side window frames on a 330 2+2 stay in the door, so the felts and trim have to attached differently.

I also had to make sure the window motors were working properly. Whenever a car gets painted and parts get left in the car, everything gets covered in a layer of sanding dust. Fine particles of metal, primer, and paint fills the air of a paint shop and collects on everything, so the window motors inside the doors got their fair share of dust.

I removed the motor and cable mechanism for a cleaning and bench testing.

Some motors have three wires to them, and some of them have two, so hot wiring them to work can be sometimes be tricky to get both directions, especially when the spool of cable is trying to bind or unravel. I stretched the drive cable across my work bench around a bolt acting like a pulley and clamped the motor to my table to tension the drive cable for testing.

Once I carefully wrapped the drive cable properly on the spool and made sure it’s working smoothly, I held the cable taught to the spool with a small zip-tie. This little trick helps me keep the cable in place as I transferred this Rube Goldberg set up into the car’s door.

I tried my best to keep the kinks and twists out of the cable as I restrung it on the internal pulleys of the door, following the diagram I drew before taking it all apart, making sure the cable crossed the same way as they came out. When the cable was almost completely installed, the zip-tie was keeping the last bit of length needed to loop around the last pulley. I reached inside and cut the zip-tie which hopefully allowed it all to be installed correctly. If not, I would have the pleasure of starting all over again back at the workbench. I only had to start over once for each of the doors!

Thank you to everyone who contributed to my fund drive. It means a lot to me to have your support!

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Tomyang.net LLC

P.O. Box 36

Hollowville, NY 12530